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Unread 03-05-2013, 10:18 AM   #136
ss3964spd
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If all the Ditra waffles are filled, and the gap between the Ditra and tub apron isn't large, seems to me you could silicone/Kerdi Fix it with a generous bead. Also seems that would only really effective if the bead happened to land on a long, parallel-to-the-tub run of a raised boarder of the waffles (if that wording makes sense). Otherwise, water will run down the face of the tub, past the first tub-to-tile joint, over the filled joint below, thru the thinset, into the waffes, then out the ends of the open waffles and under the tub.

Really though - how much water do you anticipate escaping from the tub? Based on my experience with 3 kids shaing one bath (tub, tile floor, inexpensive glass by-pass doors) for 10 years in a bathroom that was already 20 years old when we moved in, we've had absolutely no water problems.

IMO, set the tile tight to the apron, the legs, and the walls - 1/8", and silicone it.
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Unread 03-05-2013, 11:40 AM   #137
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Was just bustin your chops about the drywall, PC, I hired out my basement DW too.

My skills improved after doing the family room and kitchen so I no longer dred it, but am by no means proficient or fast, and it's still a task I'd much prefer someone else do for me.

But the demo? I mean, really?
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Unread 03-05-2013, 01:31 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
Was just bustin your chops about the drywall, PC, I hired out my basement DW too.
I understand, bustin chops is a key part of Spanky's "he-man" club rules of conduct.

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But the demo? I mean, really?
I like to think of it as my little contribution to economic stimulus. They work while I

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Unread 03-05-2013, 01:45 PM   #139
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Dan/Pete,
Thanks for your feedback and suggestions. The problem we had with the original water damage was caused by the chronic flex in the skirt of the tub. I doubt I'll have the same issue with the new bathroom since the new tub is set on mortar and will not move. The 1/2 ply layer is being set next to the tub run up within 1/8" - 1/4". The gap between the ply and the tub will be sealed with Kerdi-fix along with sealing the edge between the tiles and the Ditra.

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Unread 03-06-2013, 10:36 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PC7060
I like to think of it as my little contribution to economic stimulus. They work while I
We went boating.
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Unread 03-06-2013, 05:52 PM   #141
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Connected the drain lines and did the water test on the tub Monday evening. No leaks!

Also received the new Kohler light fixture and the Robern medicine cabinet that Mrs. PC selected in from Amazon; love that 2 day shipping on Amazon Prime. The cabinet is solid and the dry fit in the rough in checked out. My wife and daughter were very happy with the mirror on the reverse side of the door; apparently nice to have for the mysterious morning and evening rituals. Seems like a pricey unit to me but comparable to the Kohler cabinets
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Unread 03-07-2013, 08:15 AM   #142
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Won't be long now for wall materials to go up. You gotta be getting excited.

I know Dan's just busting your chops on farming out the drywall, but when it comes to hanging rock in entire rooms that's the way to go for me too.
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Unread 03-07-2013, 08:31 AM   #143
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Wow those Robern's are spendy!!
My suggestion is to not be around to see what the drywallers do and dont peek before they mud all the gaps and cover all the things they get away with.
I made that mistake once.

Things such as large gaps that I would re-cut, or kicking a wall sheet up against the wall and grabbing 1/2" hunk of debris off the floor and when the drywall wouldn't go flush at the floor they just find the offending area and smash it with a hammer. Not caring that they cracked the drywall around as it will be a 5 second mud pass to hide. They go so fast it is a wonder to watch just not on your own house if your OCD.
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Unread 03-07-2013, 12:34 PM   #144
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From one OCD'er to another, toughest OCD decision of my life.

I would have been stuck at that pump for 20 minutes!
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Unread 03-07-2013, 01:08 PM   #145
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Congrats on passing the leak down test. Certainly does appear you're on the cusp of covering up the open walls. Should be a milestone weekend, PC.
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Unread 03-07-2013, 05:50 PM   #146
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Guys thanks for the feedback. I'm looking forward to getting back to physical labor this weekend.

Dan, pretty funny on the perfect 10. I worked with a guy once who would obsessively watch the countdown time on the MW at work so he could stop it at exactly 0.0 seconds BEFORE the timer beeped. Made his day if he could do it.

Teddy, drywall is kind of like sausage that way.
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Unread 03-07-2013, 09:06 PM   #147
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Cutting Hardie Backer Board

The Hardie instructions recommend scoring and snapping but I have to say that is easier said than done when cutting off a 3" slice. I ended up using an old carbide blade on my 10" cabinet saw to get nice clean cuts. The dust collector on the saw is essential when cutting this stuff inside because it throws out nasty silica dust.

What do you guys use to cut this stuff? I need to cut in the niche and am planning to use my Rockwell plunge saw.
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Unread 03-07-2013, 09:24 PM   #148
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A grinder
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Unread 03-07-2013, 09:42 PM   #149
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I use Wonderboard Lite. Scores and snaps like drywall with a utility knife. Did two 1.5" pieces for the inside of my shower curb the other night with no problem. It's been 7 years since I last used Hardi.
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Unread 03-08-2013, 09:00 AM   #150
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I had the same problem cutting Hardy, PC, thin bits are difficult. And, thin or not, the snapped edges aren't very clean - even if I scored them a dozen times.

I ended up using an old circ saw and blade, outside, and my grinder as cwilde72 suggested.

Probably won't use Hardy on the next project.
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