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Unread 11-14-2022, 04:55 PM   #1
Mlof
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Waterproofing a single tile

I recently had a tile job completed around my tub, and I have bullnose tiles running down the sides of the tub skirt. Somehow the tiler messed up and cut the last bullnose tile short such that there is > 3/8 inch gap between it and where the floor moulding starts. I have extra bullnose peices that I can cut to size, so I was able to pry the tile off for replacement. Unfortunately the redgard underneath came up with it. This spot happens to be where there was water damage previously, so I definitely want to do something to waterproof. I am not too excited to go spend $60.00 for gallon of redgard just to cover a 2" by 3" area. Does anybody here have any alternative solutions to getting this area covered? I tried asking custom if they have samples or if the orange store I bought from had any open product but no luck. Thanks!
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Unread 11-14-2022, 05:43 PM   #2
jadnashua
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A tile installer may have an open container that they'd sell you some from...I was able to do that one time when I needed to do a repair.
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Unread 11-15-2022, 08:04 AM   #3
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Welcome, Mike,

Ensuring that area - which is prone to water damage, is as water proof as can be made would be worth every cent of that 60 dollars to me.

You can always try to sell what's left of the gallon.
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Unread 11-15-2022, 07:09 PM   #4
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Thanks guys. I was hoping there would be some other way. There has got to be a lot of times where people need to replace a tile or two so I'm surprised that none of the manufacturers try to sell a touch up kit. I'll see if there are any local installers who would be willing to fill a dixie cup for me, but if not I suppose my only two options are to let it go uncovered or buy the gallon and then try to sell it to someone else.
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Unread 11-15-2022, 10:21 PM   #5
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How about asking the installer that installed your tile a bit short? Do they have any?

Otherwise…What part of the country are you in? Might be a pro on the forum that can help.

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Unread 11-17-2022, 05:11 PM   #6
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I'm in the Milwaukee area.

I did ask him, and he had stored some leftover from a job for this very reason, but unfortunately it dried up in storage. Thinking of trying something like flex glue behind this tile, but I am a little worried it would have more flex and cause the grout to crack if it gets bumped.
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Unread 11-23-2022, 01:53 PM   #7
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No caulk line in shower corner

I'm working on a DIY bathroom upgrade but had my tiles installed by a professional. I'm left to do the grouting/caulking. The installer did not leave a vertical caulk line in the corner. Instead the subway tiles extend all the way into the corner and it alternates sides randomly on which side of the wall has the tile extending to the corner. The spacing is really small, in some areas there's maybe a 1/32 gap between where the tiles on different walls meet. So I have a very tight zig zagging caulk line. I assumed that it would be impossible to grout first without this corner filling in so I injected caulking into these corners, decided to just finish caulking along the tub the tub line while I was at it. I now know that I did this backwards, was supposed to grout first. I mixed a small batch of grout to do the shelves, and had some left over so put some near a caulk line and the next day it appeared that the grout actually started to dissolve the caulk!

So now I am removing all the caulking I can, but am unsure what to do in the corner. If I leave the caulk line I'm worried it wont bond with the grout and the grout may dissolve the caulking that is there. If I remove the caulk (and it wont be easy to remove the 1/32 zig-zagging caulk line) the grout will fill in completely and probably crack. Help?
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Unread 11-23-2022, 02:09 PM   #8
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If you still want to remove the caulk, use a sharp utility knife. Go back with 100% silicone that's the same color as the grout. I find it easier to grout first but some installers caulk first. But let the grout set before trying to silicone the corners. You'll have to use Acetone to clean up the silicone.
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Unread 11-23-2022, 03:38 PM   #9
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Mike, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. A moderator can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

The intent for use of a flexible sealant at those change-of-plane locations in your tile surface is to provide movement accommodation. Leaving only 1/32nd of an inch between the tiles is not going to allow for much of that regardless what you try to put in the void. An eighth of an inch there would be the minimum useful gap.

Squeezing some silicone sealant in those little gaps may keep them from filling with some other sort of "stuff," but you'll never have what you really need.

Grouting the tile surface before applying the flexible sealant is the industry standard method, but you can do it any way you think will work for you.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-23-2022, 03:52 PM   #10
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Thanks for the responses so far guys. Wish I could just go back and have the appropriate sized caulk channel put in.

So I guess I have some questions that will help me decide what to do next.

First question: Does grout adhere to silicone? I'm under the impression that since I applied silicone first, the wet grout will NOT adhere to the dry silicone whereas if I grouted first the wet silicone WILL adhere to the dried grout and create a seal. If this is true then I may be better off removing the silicone in the corner before trying to grout.

The second question is if it is ever reasonable to just grout a corner? I got ahold of the tile setter and he just advised me to just grout the corner. When I mentioned that I had already caulked the corner he told me to just grout up to the caulk and see what happens.

Final question is, has anyone seen grout "eat away" at silicone? I wonder if I just did not wait long enough for the silicone to set before grouting next to it. The silicone claims to be ready for water after 30 minuets, and I touched up the silicone line a few hours before grouting.

Thanks
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Unread 11-23-2022, 04:07 PM   #11
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The grout will not adhere to a 100 percent silicone sealant. A silicone sealant won't adhere to a cured silicone sealant. But you don't really care one way or the other. The intent is to cover the gap while allowing for movement accommodation.

I've grouted the vertical corners in showers many times. It usually cracks. With today's availability of 100 percent silicone sealants in color and texture matches for all grouts, there is far less downside to using a silicone sealant than there was when clear silicones were the best available option.

In your case, again, you have no room for movement accommodation and it will matter little what you put in that joint. Your tile contractor was not your friend.

Can you tell us very specifically what silicone sealant you are having trouble with?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-23-2022, 04:52 PM   #12
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It was GE silicone 2 Advanced white . One thing about caulk that's confusing to me is how can two different products both be 100% silicone but have different properties? Are they chemically the same, or is it like saying my Samsung TV and my Sony TV are both 100% TV?
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Unread 11-23-2022, 05:24 PM   #13
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Mmmm, seems like you're just describing different brands there, Mike. Could be a brazillion different brands of 100 percent silicone products, eh? I think the difference between GE's (they're no longer made by GE) silicones 1 and 2 is the method of cure. One's acid cure, the other neutral(?) cure.

Your televisions appear to be different brands. But one might be color and the other black-and-white. Or one might have a flat screen and the other a CRT. Both still 100 percent television, though.
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