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Unread 05-25-2010, 06:35 AM   #1
sxotty
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Bathroom layout suggestion

I have what seems a silly problem. Basically it is this, I need to make a master bath that is nicer seeming than the other bath in the house. The space I have to work with is narrow and needs to fit in a closet as well.

We redid a bathroom, it isn't super fancy like many on this site, but looks nice. Has a old cast iron tub, and a 48" standalone shower (from a sterling kit). The toilet is tucked behind a wall. I am struggling to figure out a layout for the master bath that would set it apart as seeming nicer. For reference here is a picture of the other bathroom, well nevermind I am not allowed to post links yet, so just a quick floorplan is attached.

Instead I will just upload the floor plan.
Basically it is 15' x 8'4" , there is a small bump out for a chase. It can be narrowed slightly from the empty plan but will still need to exist.

I have one option, but there are a number of detracting things from it.
Cons:
1) The toilet isn't tucked behind a wall (not sure if that matters really)
2) The shower is smaller than the other bathroom
3) The tub does not have room for a tile surround, or deck as in the other bathroom
4) If the shower is expanded toward tub there is no room for towel racks

Pros:
1) No sloped ceiling
2) two sinks
3) separate rooms for vanities and other bathroom stuff (so the vanity room and closet could be carpeted and the rest of bathroom tiled)


I have been reading a bit about wet rooms and have to admit I am intrigued by the possibility of completely changing the layout. The right wall is not load bearing so it it possible I could put a glass block wall as the shower edge or something like that (visible from the master bedroom). The thing is I have no experience with the whole wetroom concept and as such layout is giving me a bit of a headache.

I would really appreciate any general layout advice. The main problem is with the large window on the bottom I want to run the closet vertically. I have toyed with all sorts of other ideas sch as placing the vanities opposite each other on the walls, moving the bathroom to the bottom, and the closet to the top with the entry into the closet only and the bathroom at the far end and toilet under the large window. I just don't know well enough what will look good, nor especially what can be done if a custom shower is built. I can't really move into the master bedroom anymore either, due to where the entry, and stairs are.
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Unread 05-25-2010, 06:41 AM   #2
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Welcome aboard, Scott.

Since you have a tub in the other bathroom the one in the master could be eliminated.
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Unread 05-25-2010, 07:17 AM   #3
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Scott, does the door into the bedroom have to be in that location, or can it adjust?

what about the door into the closet from the bath, could it go directly from the bedroom into the closet?


I like John's idea to eliminate the tub. we never use ours in the master bath, and yet we did retain it when we remodeled (that resale value thing). however, if you must retain it, maybe a different kind, a freestanding tub, or one in the corner might give you different flexability.
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Unread 05-25-2010, 07:44 AM   #4
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As it stands we are unlikely to be in the house for a long time. This is unfortunate, but means I have to do something that future owners will not dislike (partially why the wet room is a bit frightening). It also means I am hesitant to not put a tub in the master bath, though I never use them either and have read that the shower is more important now.

The other tub (in other bath) is rather short at 54" long and under a sloping roof. The house is old so walls are not square or regular (the lumber was not the modern style dimensional lumber we use now )

dsoniat: The door can be moved (except to the extremes obviously b/c it needs room for trim and stuff). I would just put the door into the closet at the lower end except then a person loses a lot of closet space (since there can no longer be two rods on either side of the walkway).

I attached a mock up. I actually kind of like it despite the wasted space. I could move the door closer to the end, but I will end up impacting the master bedroom in a way as well. The entryway is off the stairs, so it would require the entire wall be clear of obstructions all the way down. If the door is farther up then the wall can be used to put desks, dressers, end tables etc.. against. This time I included the master bedroom I should have done that originally. I also marked where current plumbing is (one from other bathroom above, the other is the current waste stack). Routing the plumbing from right to left is easy b/c of where joists are, but up and down is harder. Where the tub and other stuff is shown would be easy though b/c there is a drop ceiling below.

There are some problems I see that perhaps youguys can ease my mind on. First it seems the plumbing for the tub would be impossible to get to in this mock-up unless you can put a panel in the show, which seems really dicey to me (for leak concerns).
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Unread 10-06-2010, 07:12 AM   #5
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Just to resurrect a dead thread I think I came up with a good solution, but have some other questions. What sort of membranes are used under tile on a regular (plywood) floor? I thought I remembered some membrane made by hardi, but could not find it. I had planned to put some water resistant/proofish membrane all over the entire floor and up the walls a bit so that if there was a spill in the bathroom it would not make a mess (and bubbles in subfloor), but I could not remember the specific product. This is not for a shower, but just a floor that should not be wet all the time. Might not even been necesary, but I saw it mentioned before and it seemed nice.

Does anyone have a good site to familiarize myself with multiple shower head systems? I know 48x36 isn't that big, but it is what I have. As of now I am planning to use Wedi board. I will see if that works out.

New layout: The advantage of old construction is the walls were thicker than I thought and the waste stack can be put all the way inside.
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Unread 10-06-2010, 07:36 AM   #6
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Scott, try searching for Schluter ditra. That's the floor underlayment most mentioned here. You should get about a million hits.

It will be waterproof if you seal any seams with kerdi band and run some kerdi up the walls.

I don't think your shower is too small for a multihead system if that's what you want. They don't come cheap and involve some fancy plumbing, so I'm not sure if it's worth it if you're going to sell the house soon.
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Unread 10-09-2010, 02:50 PM   #7
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Wendy thanks. I found that stuff. It is fairly expensive (not that it is the end of the earth), but seems to go beyond what I needed. I am not worried about floor movement as the floor will end up being a combination of 2"-1.5" thick (due to some crazy stuff in the original joists it has two separate sections to make it level). Hence I don't think it will move much at all. The stuff I saw you just roll some glue out on the floor and then lay the matting down and roll it to get air bubbles out. I do appreciate the advice and will keep that info in my head going forward. Once everything is ready I will revisit the issue (if it turns out I need to level a section of floor maybe I will try the tavy thin skin stuff instead).
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Unread 08-01-2011, 12:01 PM   #8
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Sealing valve protrusions in enclosure

I am doing a tile shower with Wedi board. I can see how the wedi board will seal to itself nicely, but the valve protrusions will not be sealed so I was worrying about them.

Then I realized that normally valve protrusions are not sealed in any shower b/c the escutcheon plate has a seal that seals to the surface.

However, in a tile shower I worry that water will permeate through the grout and run down the waterproof liner (wedi, kerdi, whatever it is) then drip into the valve protrusion behind the escutcheon plate. Is this a problem? How is it dealt with normally?

I have thought about using the epoxy grout which as I understand it is not water permeable (but it is also dang expensive). Not sure if this is something I should even be worrying about though. I mean these are vertical walls, so water isn't going to be pouring through like on a floor or something.
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Unread 08-01-2011, 12:28 PM   #9
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The water wall doesn't get quite the same spray or water penetration as the side or far wall of the shower, so sealing the plumbing penetrations with the trim gasket and a bead of caulk is usually sufficient. If you want, you can smear silicone along the cut edges of the tile and backerboard to ensure the water won't see that free edge and decide to let go. I don't think it is necessary, except to let you sleep better.
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Unread 08-01-2011, 12:33 PM   #10
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the tub and shower head arm are easy
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Unread 08-01-2011, 12:57 PM   #11
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Thanks a lot for the responses.

Paul what is that spray foam or something? It is a bit hard to tell from the picture.

I was going to have a hand shower as well so the spray wall is sort of undefined that is why I was getting worried (people are crazy you know ). I think I will try to seal the valves to the wedi board with something just for peace of mind, I actually also thought about putting an upside down V of silicone directly on the wedi under the plate so that any water under the tile would slide around the openings. I guess I was being a bit paranoid (that also explains why search did not turn up anything on the subject).
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Unread 08-01-2011, 03:27 PM   #12
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100% silicone.

Not siliconized latex, but real American grown silicone made from real petrochemicals right here in the good ol' US of A
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Unread 08-01-2011, 03:56 PM   #13
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Allright guys thanks tons for the advice. I am a slow worker, but when I get done I will post up the final just so people can see it. I don't really have a project thread because it has just been a few random things that have flummoxed me.
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Unread 08-01-2011, 07:20 PM   #14
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Google Schluter Kerdi seal - waterproofing pipe seal 3/4"
Schluter also makes one that will fit most shower valves . When I have showed the to plumbers thy have started using the on every thing .
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Unread 08-01-2011, 08:59 PM   #15
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If you find you want one of them kerdi valve rubber ring thingee's I'll mail one to you. I have quite a few of them laying around.
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