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Unread 02-24-2021, 11:33 PM   #16
MrBottleneck
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Ok,thanks K Man

One thing I have been thinking or so wishing was I wish I would have omitted the Poly behind CBU and tried Redguard but, I reckon that’s a little to late (not into that sandwich thing).
I suppose I could go between joints since they haven’t had alkali tape/thinset applied and put cuts in poly but, why bother.
I ran the Poly over flange lip just in case anyone wonders as you can see in pictures.
I just have never used Redguard and here so many guys using it. Kinda wished I could have then been able to chime in if anyone ever asked about it (my friends etc).
Oh well
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Unread 02-25-2021, 11:26 AM   #17
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Kinda dry fitting tile layout prior to Ditra

Trying to figure out where to start so, I can get most full pieces in the area of most used/visually seen.
Generally you want equal pieces that are cut on both sides of my wall but, in my case wouldn’t you think it would look better so there are cut pieces along back wall (vanity will cover 24”, door closed hides almost to there, then there’s the toilet).
Also, this Marazzi tile does meet ANSI A137.1 but, they recommend a minimum 3/16 grout line minimum. Isn’t that kinda big?

Also, since I have never done Ditra. Is there any drawback to cutting it so, that the 3’3” wide piece is cut to length to fit from shower curb to vanity wall. That means I can install it in smaller 3’3”x4’3” squares (3 pieces in open the 1 in closet) for easier access to spread out all-set rather then fighting a large piece that runs from window to door. And doing it that way leaves me to add a 10” strip on vanity wall which I didn’t like.

Opinions are ideas/welcomed.
Thanks in advance

Woohooo I read the Liberry and figured out turning my phone makes my pictures correct. Holy sheet I’m a freakin genious.

Also, here are some original pictures of just how ugly my bathroom was straight outta 1956 all original.
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Unread 02-25-2021, 05:46 PM   #18
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Also, another question

So, I layed out the tile as mentioned in other posts above but, was wondering a few more things.
I did a 3-4-5 to see how square things where and I new at the entry door into shower it was off and doing the 3-4-5 only affirmed it.
So, as you can see in the picture there where be little to no gap at left wood to tile transition but, a gap on right side looking into bathroom.
Would a Schluter TK transition piece be able to be adjusted over wood to adjust that gap to near zero?
Any other that might work better?
I mean I can always cut starting tiles to fit but would rather not as it’s off by a 1/4.
I was hoping since the TK trim sits on Ditra I could adjust more over the gap.

Also, would it be advisable to use a 3/16 wedge kit for zero lippage? What brand recommend?
I found some old 3/16 I used for some other job long ago (I forget) but at least they gave me an idea of look anyhow. I don’t like them they a soft rubbery.

Keep in mind I am not a tile guy but, not rushing and trying to do the best job possible.

Thanks,
Pictured is gap I reference in post.
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Unread 02-25-2021, 08:26 PM   #19
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Mike,

I would definitely shoot for the cuts to be hidden by the vanity/door/toilet.

3/16th is large for my tastes, but joint width is rather dependent on the tile itself; how consistent they are in length and width. Carefully measure yours, several from different boxes. I believe the recommendation is that your grout joint should be 3X the difference of the variance between tiles. IOW, if the max difference in size from the smallest to largest is 1/16th, then your grout joint should be 3/16th. You could also dry lay 3 or 4 rows using 16th or 1/8 spacers and see how they fit.

Install the Ditra however it fits best.

I would opt to cut the tile on an angle at the entry way transition to avoid using a trim piece, but given your layout that would mean sliding it all towards the door 1/2 to 3/4 inch I think. Is your current tile offset 1/3rd? You could perhaps change the offset just a little. If your tile is very flat you could do a 50% offset.

By wedge kit I think you mean lippage control. I've only used the system by Spin Doctor, which I liked but have nothing else to compare it to. Many people here have experience with other systems. Some good, other not so much. Still, for someone without a lot of tiling experience these systems are very useful. I'd certainly use one gain, and plan to.

That's a rather charming old and very pink bathroom.
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Unread 02-25-2021, 08:56 PM   #20
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by SS3964SPD
I would definitely shoot for the cuts to be hidden by the vanity/door/toilet.
Kinda figured as it seemed logical

Quote:
Originally Posted by SS3964SPD
3/16th is large for my tastes, but joint width is rather dependent on the tile itself; how consistent they are in length and width. Carefully measure yours, several from different boxes. I believe the recommendation is that your grout joint should be 3X the difference of the variance between tiles. IOW, if the max difference in size from the smallest to largest is 1/16th, then your grout joint should be 3/16th. You could also dry lay 3 or 4 rows using 16th or 1/8 spacers and see how they fit.
Ok, I will measure a group of them.
I was just going by what box stated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SS3964SPD
Install the Ditra however it fits best.
Ok, awesome that will make life easier for me

Quote:
Originally Posted by SS3964SPD
I would opt to cut the tile on an angle at the entry way transition to avoid using a trim piece, but given your layout that would mean sliding it all towards the door 1/2 to 3/4 inch I think. Is your current tile offset 1/3rd? You could perhaps change the offset just a little. If your tile is very flat you could do a 50% offset.
Sliding it either way won’t bother me either way. But, I will still have to use some kind of trim because adding the Ditra and thin set will put the tile above the wood floor about an 1/8+or-
The plus is then I can use a Schluter Reno U and it will butt tight to wood if tile is cut in length to match difference
Well, in the testing layout pic it’s close to a 1/3 but, not measured out exactly. The box recommended against a 50/50 and said wasn’t advisable. So, would they say that because of curvature which would lead to lippage? I’m a big fan of the running brick pattern myself.
Although it seems though the 1/3 overlap seems to be the fad now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SS3964SPD
By wedge kit I think you mean lippage control. I've only used the system by Spin Doctor, which I liked but have nothing else to compare it to. Many people here have experience with other systems. Some good, other not so much. Still, for someone without a lot of tiling experience these systems are very useful. I'd certainly use one gain, and plan to.
Yes, Lippage control is what I meant. Do those snap of fine being set on top of Ditra?
I don’t want any perceived lippage.
How about this kit
https://www.amazon.com/Peygran-Level...JT6XV4N4QPTNV9


Quote:
Originally Posted by SS3964SPD
That's a rather charming old and very pink bathroom.
Yeah, not very masculine to say the least . But, one thing I liked about the house when I bought it was it wasnt all hacked up and had good bones.

Dig your user name as I’m a big car guy myself.
Thanks for chiming in.
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Unread 02-26-2021, 05:41 PM   #21
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Yes, if the tiles are flat then the 1/3" offset recommendation isn't as important. Take some samples from several boxes, lay them face to face, and see how much they rock.

Many of the lippage control systems are similar, if used correctly all should provide similar results. All have their pros and cons. No experience with the one you linked to, though.

Not very masculine? Mrs. Mike might have a say in that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
I bought it was it wasnt all hacked up and had good bones.
Well done. Very few get the car reference from the username. Your quote above is one of the reasons I bought it.
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Unread 02-26-2021, 06:20 PM   #22
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Quote:
Not very masculine? Mrs. Mike might have a say in that.
It’s just me as I am divorced and my son has moved out on his on.
No worries it’s all good.

Thanks, SS3964SPD I will look into the tile consistency.

On a side note I did get my Ditra down today. Kinda messy as it was my first go with Ditra but, mixed it thin but, still held a notch good.
It stayed stuck down real nice (added some extra weight as precaution as I am anal like that)
Really liked working with the ALL-SET. Should like it even better for setting since I can make it not quite so thin.

Also, I plan on prefilling Ditra squares in a few days. I have been told that’s ok by Ditra regional rep. But, I have also heard some have experienced like slight flaking off of plastic top when doing that. Will that be an issue with the All-SET if flat edged troweled in smooth?
OR
Would it be wise just to fill squares as I trowel for tile.
Any advantage of one technique over the other?

Thanks for everyone’s input/advice and as progress continues I will post.

Mike
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Unread 02-27-2021, 08:22 AM   #23
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I installed Ditra Heat in my master bath, Mike. It's similar to regular Ditra in function. I pre-filled mine. There will be some flaking but is easily managed; just clear it away from the section you're working on.

Experienced installers can probably fill the Ditra and set tile at the same time. I ain't one of them. I'm certain doing both at once would be quite messy indeed for me.
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Unread 02-27-2021, 11:03 AM   #24
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Ok, Dan then prefill it is I reckon.

Where you using All-Set in your master bath?

Thanks
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Unread 03-01-2021, 10:12 AM   #25
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Nope, I used Custom's VersaBond for, well, everything except my glass accent strips, Mike. Going on 1.5 years later and no problems whatsoever.
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Unread 03-01-2021, 01:53 PM   #26
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Dan, got lucky and a local Tile&Decor store in Cinci had just gotten in two skids of All-Set in white so, I grabbed enough to doing everything (shower walls included).
I figure my son wants me to help him redo his bathroom this summer so, I will have some for his project as well.

Hey, Dan what’s you opinion on my toilet flange it’s sitting a lil below what the finished height will be with tile. Granted I have a piece of luan 5/16 below tile now so, it’s probably won’t quite sit that high. I’m guessing flange will be about 1/8 below finished height when all said and done.
I’m guessing (as I’m no more a plumber then tile setter) that that will work out fine with a thick wax ring with horn. What you guess?

Also, I’m going to use a piece of oak (the trim piece pictured is actually not what I’m using) but, is same height width and taper (smooth no grooves etc).
You think that will look ok?
I thought about a RENO V but, thought a true oak piece finished to match floor will look better.
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Unread 03-01-2021, 02:39 PM   #27
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If the flange cannot be raised so that it sits atop the finished floor, which is preferred, natch, then there aren't many options.

If the flange rests on the finished floor it is at the correct height for a standard wax ring. If it's even with the finished floor one of the thicker wax rings might do the job. Below the FF, then you might need to look at one of the flange extenders that are on the market.

You could lay the new toilet on its side and place a straight edge across the sides that will touch the floor, crossing over the outlet, then measure from the straight edge to the "flat" surrounding the outlet - that part which the wax ring will seal against. Add that to how far below the FF the top of the flange is. Should give you an idea what you'll need.

Agreed, the oak transition will look better.
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Unread 03-01-2021, 03:33 PM   #28
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Mike, this photo shows the optimum relationship between drain flange and toilet and should help you visualize the measurement Dan is suggesting.

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Unread 03-01-2021, 04:08 PM   #29
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Yea CX, I had seen that exact picture last night while perusing the net.

Some say double the wax ring up. One with a built in horn then one without.

Some say use the spacer. I think the spacer would be best but, never used one. Do they work good if a bead of silicone is placed between it and flange?

I found this website and it gave me a ton of option.
https://allthumbsdiy.com/plumbing/to...der-spacer-kit

As far as transition I’m with you Dan. I do think that will look ok.


I reckon I will figure the height discrepancy out once my toilet is in.
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Unread 03-01-2021, 05:44 PM   #30
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In the meantime of reading and posting I got the Ditra prefilled with All-Set.
So, progress is being made. Next comes chalking out my lines and testing layout I suppose.

Next question I have read and read about trowels for 12x24.
I see some recommending a 1/2 then others say 1/4x3/8
So, I tested a piece of my tile with the 1/4x3/8 tile back buttered.
100% coverage it seemed.
I have checked my tile and it has lil to no perceived cupping when stood back to back and ends pinched.
What you tile gurus say?

I did watch the Schluter video where he did same size tile with 1/4x3/8 and it was excellent coverage.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AaP1uA6FIQE

If I am getting 100% coverage with the 1/4x3/8 is the 1/2 any benefit?
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