Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 06-10-2013, 01:02 PM   #1
Lex Everything
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Padres National Forest, CA
Posts: 55
CBU To Drywall Transition Question

Hello all! Had a few questions about CBU to drywall joints.

1) Concerning the Transition from the CBU in the shower area to the drywall outside of the shower... Is it incorrect to have the sloping mud joint (running vertical) butting up against the drywall butt edge as it transitions from shower area to the bathroom drywall? Here is a drawing showing what I am trying to explain... I am thinking the top example in the drawing is incorrect, and that the bottom example is the proper way to end vertical butt joints at this transition. The transition joint will be hidden under tile that will continue just past this transition.
Name:  drywall.jpg
Views: 3447
Size:  45.8 KB

Here is a pic of the shower end transition in question... with the sloping CBU mud joint at the vertical edge where it will meet the drywall. This seems wrong now that I have done it and am looking at it:
Name:  cbu.png
Views: 1567
Size:  510.7 KB

2) My other question: The CBU in the shower... should the horizontal ends include the sloping mud joints to be mudded and taped just like you would do hanging drywall? Or are these usually cut so that top and bottom CBU sheets are simply butted up to one another with a 1/8 gap and then finished with alkali resistant mesh tape and thinset?
Talking about the horizontal joints indicated by the arrows in this drawing:
Name:  showerstall.jpg
Views: 1350
Size:  22.3 KB

Thank you for any and all information!
__________________
Lex

Last edited by jgleason; 06-10-2013 at 02:01 PM. Reason: please use the paperclip icon to attach images
Lex Everything is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 06-10-2013, 01:12 PM   #2
PC7060
...unrepentant, detail focused, over-analyzer.
 
PC7060's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,892
That will work fine, put the drywall next to the CBU, tape with akali mesh and fill/feather the thin set just like drywall compound. If you need to level out the joint with the adjoining painted area, you can feather the coat of drywall compound over the drywall to get a smooth transition. You can sand off any drywall compound that gets on the CBU.

Name:  DSC_1633.jpg
Views: 4775
Size:  37.0 KB Name:  DSC_1665.jpg
Views: 1317
Size:  45.6 KB

Last edited by PC7060; 06-10-2013 at 02:22 PM. Reason: align pics
PC7060 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-10-2013, 01:54 PM   #3
PC7060
...unrepentant, detail focused, over-analyzer.
 
PC7060's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,892
Quote:
I am thinking the top example in the drawing is incorrect, and that the bottom example is the proper way to end vertical butt joints at this transition. The transition joint will be hidden under tile that will continue just past this transition.
Realized I missed part of the question. How you have it is fine. I try to have the taper of the CBU abutt the drywall, preferably the tapered end too. This allows you to mess tape/fill with thinset with minimal bumpage.
PC7060 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-10-2013, 02:07 PM   #4
jgleason
Retired Moderator - Theatre Guy (and computers)
 
jgleason's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Weare, NH
Posts: 8,883
Hi Lex,

It is preferred that you use the attachment method to upload your images directly into the forum database. This helps ensure the size requirements are met (the forum will auto resize uploaded images) and ensures that the images will always be displayed in your post. (Images hotlinked from 3rd party sites can disappear over time leaving your posts without the visual context originally intended).

Note-if your image files are >2MB you will have to resize them first. Handy utility for doing that is here - http://imageresizer.codeplex.com/
jgleason is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-10-2013, 02:13 PM   #5
Lex Everything
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Padres National Forest, CA
Posts: 55
Thanks, PC! So... how I have it installed, as seen in the second pic, with the taper at the vertical edge - where it will meet drywall is correct? And that the drywall will be best installed vertically to match with the taper at the edge running vertical? I figured it would be the opposite, with cut ends butting up to each other... at least that is what I thought after I put up the CBU, gave it a look, and thought... hmm, something seems off here.

Edit* Thanks, Joe, for the attachment info! Sorry about that, will use the attachment method from now on!
__________________
Lex

Last edited by Lex Everything; 06-10-2013 at 02:18 PM.
Lex Everything is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-10-2013, 02:21 PM   #6
PC7060
...unrepentant, detail focused, over-analyzer.
 
PC7060's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,892
Lex,

You are on the right track although there really isn't a wrong one. Either way will work, I personally prefer the tapered edges because it make matching up the tile to paint transition a little smoother.
PC7060 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-10-2013, 02:33 PM   #7
Lex Everything
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Padres National Forest, CA
Posts: 55
Excellent, PC. Appreciated!
__________________
Lex
Lex Everything is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-10-2013, 04:28 PM   #8
jim_c
doitmyselfer
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Ancaster Ontario
Posts: 315
and then....

Nice pics and drawings folks!
This discussion then leads to the issue of how you are going to finish off or trim your tiled area at th epoint where the tile ends and the regular wall begins. On one shower I did the remaining untiled wall area was small so I put a 2nd layer of drywall over it and tiled up to it. The tile and the painted drywall wall were then flush/even/smooth.
On another shower I used aluminum J trim on the edges of the tile which was higher than the drywall painted surface. Best to have a plan for this before you start tiling. Judging by the questions, you are way ahead of me!
__________________
Jim
jim_c is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-12-2013, 12:21 PM   #9
Lex Everything
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Padres National Forest, CA
Posts: 55
insulation question

Excellent point, Jim. I am currently thinking that one over.

Have another question related to insulation. Want to close these walls up, so... I am using Kerdi membrane in the shower, so no vapor barrier on the insulation behind the CBU...
However... for the rest of the bathroom (outside of the shower) behind the drywall (all interior walls), should I also be installing a non-faced insulation? I was going to use the recycled denim in these interior walls. Would I be better off using a kraft faced insulation? Basically, is a vapor retarder such as that found on kraft faced batts necessary in a bathroom behind interior walls?
__________________
Lex

Last edited by Lex Everything; 06-12-2013 at 12:32 PM.
Lex Everything is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-12-2013, 12:32 PM   #10
ss3964spd
Moderator
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 4,275
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
Lex, if the walls you are speaking of are interior walls, opposed to exterior, you don't need a vapor barrier in any area other than the shower area. In fact, you don't need insulation at all but it is nice to cut down on sound transmission a bit.

In otherwords, correct - non-faced is fine in the interior walls.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-12-2013, 12:38 PM   #11
Lex Everything
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Padres National Forest, CA
Posts: 55
Thanks, Dan! Yes, I was wanting to use insulation mainly to reduce sound transmission, as a wall is shared with the master bedroom.
__________________
Lex
Lex Everything is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-12-2013, 12:48 PM   #12
ss3964spd
Moderator
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 4,275
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
Completey understand, Lex, I do the same thing, for the same reason, whenever I open up an interior wall in my house.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-25-2013, 02:46 PM   #13
Lex Everything
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Padres National Forest, CA
Posts: 55
CBU rough/smoth matter with Kerdi?

A little update:
I have insulated and closed up the walls... but I realized that I hung the CBU with the rough side out. This is going to be a Kerdi membrane shower, so I am now wondering If I should have hung with the smooth side facing out, being that Schluter recommends drywall (smooth) under their Kerdi membrane. Does it matter which side (rough/smooth) of the CBU I use with regards to Kerdi? Thank you!
Attached Images
   
__________________
Lex
Lex Everything is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-25-2013, 07:07 PM   #14
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 92,969
Kerdi don't care, Lex.

What kinda drain you got there?
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-25-2013, 07:51 PM   #15
Lex Everything
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Padres National Forest, CA
Posts: 55
Thank you, CX.
At the moment the PVC drain pipe is plugged. I temporarily covered up the drain hole in the subfloor with some plastic sheet and tape to keep out the crawl space crawlers. I will be using the Schluter drain (offset) that came in the Schluter shower pan kit.
__________________
Lex
Lex Everything is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
CBU to Drywall Transition & Squareness tp13dan13 Tile Forum/Advice Board 1 02-07-2013 09:07 AM
Shower Surround CBU/Drywall Transition Tradesman2010 Tile Forum/Advice Board 46 02-03-2011 06:48 AM
CBU to drywall transition question Yaknvdub Tile Forum/Advice Board 9 10-05-2007 06:40 AM
Adhesvie for tile on transition from CBU to Drywall Tim39 Tile Forum/Advice Board 5 03-05-2006 08:50 PM
Transition From Cbu To Drywall MChartre Tile Forum/Advice Board 6 07-04-2005 07:11 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:51 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC