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Unread 01-08-2007, 08:58 PM   #1
Wassworks
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Tile-Redi Says I can frame a wall on the curb. Any Experience?

Hi, I just found this forum yesterday and I have spent some time searching and reading. This is a great resource that will help me greatly as I re-do my bathroom in my 100 year old farmhouse. Regarding my shower, I'm leaning toward using a 60x33 Tile-Redi pan for the ease of installation. However, my plan calls for a knee wall along the 60" side (30" door and 30" knee wall). Tile-Redi says the curb is strong enough to carry the weight. Any experience out there? How would you attach the 2x4 plate to the top of the curb?

Thanks!
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Unread 01-08-2007, 09:04 PM   #2
ddmoit
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For what it's worth, I asked them the same question and got the same answer. Ultimtately, I opted not to put a wall on the curb, so I can't tell you how to do it. You should ask them to tell you how to do it.

Since I have my pan, I can tell you that in my amateur opinion, the curb is plenty strong enough to support a knee wall.
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Unread 01-08-2007, 09:08 PM   #3
Wassworks
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Thanks Dan, I have sent them an e-mail. How did your install go? Was it as easy as it looks? Seems pretty fool proof to me and thats what I need!
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Unread 01-08-2007, 09:23 PM   #4
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My install was a little tricky. I put it on a concrete slab in my basement. The installation instructions are geared for an installation that provided for underneath access to the drain plumbing. Obviously, I didn't have that. They told me how to proceed on the phone though. I had to have my 2" PVC drain pipe in just the right location and at just the right height because gluing the drain and setting the pan down all happened at the same time. I had to be certain that my slab was level because once that PVC glue dries, there was no way for me to reset my pan without destroying it. (In retrospect, building my own pan from mud could not have been much scarier than this.)

Hopefully you have lower access to your drain plumbing.

I haven't set any tile on the pan yet. I'm using 3/4", mesh-backed, glass mosaics. I've been busy with the ceiling and walls. The pan comes with an epoxy thinset for tiling to the pan. I have been assured by Laticrete that the epoxy that came with the pan will work for my application. I hope they're right.
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Unread 01-08-2007, 09:25 PM   #5
Wassworks
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I do not have access from below unless I remove the beadboard from the kitchen ceiling, which is not in the plan. I'm working with a plumber so I'll see what he thinks.
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Unread 01-08-2007, 09:30 PM   #6
jgleason
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Not to knock a product that seems to work for at least a few folks but, for what you spend on a Tile-Redi pan you could do a Kerdi shower. Check out the link to Schluter to read more about it. When I came to this site a few years ago, I was looking for information. I am so glad I found out about the Kerdi product. I would not hesitate one bit to use Kerdi again. It is very DIY-friendly.


Last edited by jgleason; 01-08-2007 at 09:30 PM. Reason: fixed typo
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Unread 01-08-2007, 09:38 PM   #7
ddmoit
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If I had it do to over again, I would likely go the Kerdi route. I was initially concerned about Kerdi because of my choice of glass mosaic tile. I have since come to believe (by way of John Bridge himself) that the glass mosaics will work on Kerdi. Like many of the folks that show up here, I wish I would have found this site about 4 weeks sooner than I did.

What I'm doing is working out so far, though.
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Unread 01-08-2007, 10:15 PM   #8
Wassworks
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Putting cost of materials aside, I do not get Kerdi. I see lots of seams, the need for mud and still more seams. It does not appear to even seam where the pan meets the walls. I'm a novice so I'm not challenging the product, I beleive it is effective but I do not see how any pieced together system is better than a one-piece pan. Is it me? I'm looking for peace of mind and it looks to me that Tile-rite is better.
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Unread 01-09-2007, 06:12 AM   #9
jgleason
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The seams are not a problem, really. Schluter specifies a 2" overlap of any seam which is more than adequate to make the seam waterproof. If you want one-piece watertight foolprood you could always put in a premade fiberglass shower. Not my cup of tea but they hold water really well.

With Kerdi you only need to do a mud bed if the size/shape of your shower doesn't work with their 2-piece preesloped shower tray. everything else is just drywall, thinset and Kerdi.

Anyway, it's your shower and your money so you are free to do what you want. I can't tell you whether the Tile-Redi pan is better or not as i haven't personally used it. I will stand by the Kerdi system though. It is easy to install, waterproof and provides protection from floor to ceiling.
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Unread 01-09-2007, 07:22 AM   #10
Wassworks
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Thanks Joe, I only saw the vidoe that used mud with the Kerdi system. I'm not sold on the need to use the kerdi on the shower walls. I have always used cement board and tile with no problem. I will keep reading but it seems wrong to use drywall even under the Kerdi. What about water penetration where the valve set is placed? I'll take damp cement board before damp DW. Perhaps I'll come around. I'll let you know.
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Unread 01-09-2007, 04:58 PM   #11
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Hi Wass,

I admit, there is a bit of a leap of faith involved. I did a lot of reading on this forum and elsewhere before starting my shower. I ended up satisfied that Kerdi was the way to go for me. No regrets and I'd do it again.

I did pull my valve trim off a few months ago just to see if there were any surprises. Perfectly dry, no evidence of any water penetration at all. I didn't seal behind the valve trim either, just installed the trim the way it came from Moen.
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