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Unread 12-28-2020, 12:45 PM   #1
GregCa
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Greg C's Shower Project

Been lurking here for the last several years and benefited greatly from all the advice. Purchased the "Tile your World" book and have currently laid about a 1500 sq/ft of floor tile and a fireplace surround. Now it’s time for a complete bathroom remodel. I pulled out the old tub and I am doing a 4'x5' walk-in shower. I'm ready to center the Schlueter drain, mud the pan and install the plumbing fixtures. However, since it affects drain placement, before I go any further, I would like some advice on how to terminate my alcove shower with 2, 135 degree outside corners. I am using 12x24 porcelain and there's bullnose available. I will be placing granite on my bench top and curb. Here are some pictures of my scenario. Trying to find the easiest and best-looking solution so I need some expert opinions. Do I;

a. Cut the bench and place the curb about a 1/2-inch shy of the corner to allow for the tile thickness on the face of bench and curb. Run the corner bead up the wall to join the Kerdi with dry wall and then run bullnose from bench and curb tops along corner?

b. Wrap the piece of Kerdi board I cut off from the main board and wrap around corner and then run a Schlueter Deco-DE up the corner terminating with the bullnose on the outside? This seems like a waste since half of the tile will be covered with the closet door trim.

c. Set bench and curb inside the alcove thickness of bullnose and a tile width and use corner bead on Kerdi to drywall and Bullnose entire length of corner?

Also, as you can see in my picture my slab is unlevel about 1/2 inch causing my bench to slope-in. Not concerned with this on my shower floor as the mud in the pan will level the floor. Since it’s such a small area can I get away with leveling the base of the bench with some shower floor mud?

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Unread 12-29-2020, 09:30 AM   #2
John Bridge
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Hi Greg. Welcome.

You mention 135 degree angles, but I don't see that in your pictures. I'm having a little trouble figuring out what you're doing there.

I would take the bench apart and rebuild it so it's level on the top. Support it somehow down on the concrete.
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Unread 12-29-2020, 10:49 AM   #3
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Thanks for the welcome John.

Sorry I guess its tough to see the angles on the unfinished wall. The alcove transitions to a 135 angle wall on each side for the closet door entrances. Also just realized I may have screwed up buy cutting the Kerdi board flush with the corner. Probably should have angled it out to get a sharp corner

The bench is a prebuilt bench so does not lend itself to coming apart. That's why I was wondering if I could just level the slab with some mud before I thinset the bench down to the slab.
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Unread 12-30-2020, 07:19 AM   #4
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Welcome, Greg,

While the left side isn't a big challenge I do see the dilemma on the right side.

If it were mine I'd opt to eliminate that large bench and install a corner bench instead, maybe two corner benches.
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Unread 12-30-2020, 09:56 AM   #5
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The kerdi benches, curbs, etc...are actually easy to pull apart and reconfigure.

Just remove the end "panel" carefully with a Japanese (or other thin kerf) saw or blade.

Next shorten/modify the bench, as necessary.

Return the end panel to its place and Kerdi-fix or even Sikaflex it back in place.

Return to installing and seaming the bench, as normal.

-Mark in St. Louis
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Unread 12-30-2020, 01:07 PM   #6
GregCa
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buldogge, I wish I could eliminate the bench as it would make things easier. However, the boss seen a shower setup with the bench at a local Home & Bath center so a bench it will be. I doubt it will ever be used as a seat, more then likely she needs the real estate to put the 50 bottles of different shampoos and conditioners required to take a shower

ss3964spd, yes I have to cut the bench back by about 5 inches to fit. But you and John gave me a good idea. Instead of fixing my floor to make it level, I'll just cut the base of the bench to match the floor slope, thinset it down, and call it a day

For the 135 degree walls it looks like option A is my best bet. So I made my measurements and began installing the P-trap and centering the drain. Lucky for me digging to China to install the P-trap wasn't that difficult. Had to break-up half my foundation to move drain. Would it be advisable to throw some rebar pieces or wire mesh in the hole after I fill it back up with dirt and before I quikrete it over?
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Unread 02-23-2021, 12:48 PM   #7
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Tile Layout Around Bench

Tile Gurus,

This is my first shower remodel and I'm finally at the point of installing tile. I've researched these threads for hours and I think I have a good game plan.

1. Lay out the tiles on the floor and add spacers to get my height and build story stick

2. Split the difference between the very top and very bottom tile.

3. Install ledger boards at height of 1st tile and start tiling

4. Cut out niche on the fly to get grout joint to align with bottom shelf

5. Install floor tile and then complete 1st row.

However, this bench complicates things with the split the difference in step 2. Since, I plan on installing a granite top on the bench, to make this look right, I think I need to make the bottom row larger than the top, so the second row, as it wraps around the bench, doesn't leave a sliver on the right wall above the bench.

If I cut the bottom row to 11" it will leave a 9" tile at the top of the ceiling and around a 3" tile running on top of the bench. Would like some input if this is the proper way to do this or is there a better way?

Also, I would assume there is no need to run a ledger board on the bench? In my rookie mind I believe since its only 2 rows, and the top grout line is covered with the granite bench top, I can just install those 2 rows after the floor is tiled. I am probably way over thinking this, but after I've come this far, now is not the time to screw it up.

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Unread 02-23-2021, 03:01 PM   #8
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Hi Greg.

It would probably work to do as you describe, but I'd set up a ledger on front of that bench just like it was a wall. IMHO, it's best to do course by course so minor adjustments along the way can be made. Never liked painting myself into corners if I could help it.

Game plan looks good to go outside of that.
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Unread 02-24-2021, 07:42 PM   #9
GregCa
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Thanks for the input. It looks like I'm on the right path and I just installed the ledger boards. Now I have to figure the horizontal layout to make everything work. Things would be a heck of a lot easier if that dang bench wasn't in the way. Just got to suck it up and do as the boss says. Also, just finished squaring off my bathroom floor and dry fitting a few tiles. I figure I'll start with the floor first to get back into the swing of things and get used to making some cuts before for I do the shower.

Also have some Ready To Assemble (RTA) vanities showing up next week. Had a cabinet installer quote me $8K for bathroom cabinets not including plumbing or countertops . After doing all this work its hard to justify paying some one to screw a couple cabinets to the wall and I can get much better quality cabinets putting them together myself.

I want to say thanks to all who contribute here. It has been an invaluable resource, I have learned a lot and this forum has saved me a ton of money
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Unread 02-24-2021, 07:53 PM   #10
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Welcome, Greg.

Are those ledger boards fastened to the walls with mechanical fasteners?
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Unread 02-25-2021, 07:02 AM   #11
GregCa
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Yes they are. I originally just installed screws at both ends but luckily I noticed when I placed the heavy tile on those 1x2s there was some sagging in the middle and I added an extra screw. I originally was contemplating just propping up the board in the middle with a stick, but changed my mind. You have a sharp eye!
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Unread 02-25-2021, 12:47 PM   #12
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The problem with doing that with very narrow boards is that it's difficult to properly seal the fastener holes after the ledger is removed. I like to use rips of plywood (or similar) that are 4 or 5 inches wide so the fasteners can be installed 3 inches or so below the top. This allows room for proper patching of the holes and also makes them rigid enough to support the tiles with a minimum of fasteners.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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