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Unread 01-29-2021, 05:18 PM   #1
Just In Tile LLC
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No tub/shower flange ideas

This isn't necessarily a direct question but more of a post your best idea or solution. Everyone feel free to share wisdom on the matter.


We all have dealt with a tub or shower pan with no nail flange or lip. When I mud I usually put a bead of sika sealant or sika construction adhesive around the tub/shower pan edge and gently push my 6 mil poly into it so it creates
a dam and hang the poly long and then cut after I mud. Works great!

On surface waterproofing products ie: kerdiboard, wedi I've read to connect the flange with harditape and use some sort of waterproofing product, Wedi sealant or redguard with alkaline resistant tape.

I've even read of kerdi-fixing some L brackets of some sort to create the flange.

Maybe if we all figure this thing out we'll have a best practice to always apply in these situations.
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Unread 01-29-2021, 06:40 PM   #2
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I'm using Sika Construction adhesive now with Goboard. Its one of their recommended sealants. Tube states its water submersiable

So like you mentioned with the poly, if it was me I'd set my foam boards on a decent bead of sealant on the tub. Painters tape should be used since this stuff is sticky. I would make sure there's good backing/framing so the board cant be kicked in.

Thats my take.
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Unread 02-06-2021, 08:46 AM   #3
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I think you are on the right approach to use some sort of sealant (probably Sika or Wedi).

I just installed a Wedi shower system and they recommend, but don't require, blocking behind their wall to shower pan connection. I believe this is supposed to help keep the sealant in place. It might be a good idea to install blocking at the tub rim for the same reasoning.

My next job has a tub with an add on rubber flange. The current plan is to add blocking behind the rubber flange so that it stays more rigid. I'll then fill the gap with schmoo. I also like to add/embed some mesh tape on top of the sealant to board joint for extra insurance and then cover with another layer of schmoo when dry.
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Unread 02-06-2021, 10:14 AM   #4
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I use Laticretes hydroban board most of the time and in a tub surround situation like cast irons that dont have a flange i do like Kevin says above.
brace between studs at tub level with additional 2x4s then painters tape around tub, a generous bead of laticretes sealant then board on top, screw it in then apply another bead of sealant around perimitar .
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Unread 02-19-2021, 01:22 PM   #5
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I thought Schluter came out with a product like their Kerdi band but it had a strip of sticky stuff on one edge that was designed to stick to tubs. It's like a butyl sealant, or something.

But, I can't find it on their website so maybe it wasn't them or maybe it's one of those products they only sell in Europe?
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Unread 02-21-2021, 12:25 PM   #6
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I'm liking the ideas, seems surface waterproofing build methods simplifies this type of issue. Maybe I'll take the advice here on bottom sealing and just add red-guard to my mud installs when this issue arises and call it good.
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Unread 02-21-2021, 09:38 PM   #7
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Typical paper and lath, maybe some thin gauge flashing with sikaflex at that junction. Then Mapeilastic 315 over your mud with sikaflex or kerdifix style caulk. Any water that gets past that, would be a non issue IMO.
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Unread 02-21-2021, 10:18 PM   #8
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Cement based waterproofing is the future for sure Chris, eliminates so many issues with cure times on how we build.

I think any mud guy should look into Tadelakt as well and it's offspring of newer products that are coming out. Finishes right over our mudwork for seamless showers. I think we can capitalize on our hawk and trowel skills and get in a niche market that will pay handsomely.
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Unread 02-21-2021, 11:40 PM   #9
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Will have to look into that Tadelakt stuff!!
Mud is KING!!!
Dirt cheap materials providing superior prep surfaces with endless applications, true art form.
I’m Happy to be mudding anytime, it’s an added bonus that we’re paid to play in mud
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Unread 02-22-2021, 08:28 AM   #10
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Tadelakt stuff looks trick!! Would be able to charge a premium for that badassery!!!

Want to get my hands on that stuff to give it a go, the grout less trend isn’t going away and this would take all of our wall tiling time out of the scope couple showers a week, perhaps...

Mud is money, finishing this basic 3 by 5 for my GC. Billed it at $4525, have $245 in mud and setting material, 38 hours onsite counting today’s grout time. Subtract food & fuel and percentage of shop stock staples, lath & paper. Good money for sure.
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Unread 02-22-2021, 08:52 AM   #11
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Yeah as the new trend is coming for larger panel tiles, less grout, I think this will be a good alternative to offer and it can look really modern and clean. As newer stuff is coming out, I can see the waterproofing layer we put on becoming the wear layer as well. What better substrate for that then mud? Plus you can get those rounded softer edges if people want with a quick pass of a plywood jig.
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Unread 02-22-2021, 10:26 AM   #12
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Hell yeah Justin!! Mud is and always will be the best of the best!!
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Unread 02-22-2021, 07:47 PM   #13
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That taledac stuff isn't really waterproof. You treat it with wax to make it waterproof. Back in roman times they rubbed soap on it.
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Unread 02-24-2021, 01:05 PM   #14
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Yes Mike the traditional way is to polish it with olive oil soap and it reacts with your lime mix. But they are coming out with more modern renditions of this that essentially give you that plaster look and a more modern ingredient mix that isn't so sensitive to how we would use it today.

There are still people that use the olive oil and rub stone method today, I'm in the process of learning the traditional way. You can use any/ most natural soaps to make the reaction happen (calcium stearate).
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Unread 02-24-2021, 01:36 PM   #15
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That’s interesting stuff Justin, caught my curiosity and it’s got my attention. I’m a cheap date when it comes to doing things with traditional methods that old historical merits
A fellow installer I do some work with does a sealed rendering system called “microtopping” from westcoat co. Does a liner with mud pan and walls then tiles the pan and uses this system as the finish surface for the walls. Maybe this is the modern method of Tadelakt?? Stuff comes two parts one powder and two liquids a & b.
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