Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 10-19-2009, 10:58 AM   #1
DaveY
DIY'r
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Rocky Point, NY
Posts: 12
I'm Confused

Hi all, I'm new to this forum but have been reading it for some time for when the time to tile comes about. Well the time is here. i have done a good amount of handy work around the house covering almost everything except wall tiling. I did tile a floor once about 30 years ago. Can't tell you how it held up - we moved from there. i do remember the dog got into the area and sat in the thinset (or whatever it was i used back then).


I have torn out a tiled shower 4X4 that had seen its day. I am down to the studs. The shower has an acrylic shower base. Unfortunately the lip of the base does not touch the studs (about 1/4" gap) so I know I have to fir out the studs. Then apply a vapor barrier (attached tot he shower base lip with a silicone sealant. Next put up the 1/2" durock with the bottom edge sitting 1/8" off the lower part of the lip.
Now the confusion. The wife has selected polished Beijing Pink marble 12x12 for the walls.
1. Is marble really that miserable for a shower as long as the shower is dried after use (which we currently do)? There was a ceramic tile that was her second choice. I want to go with no more than 1/8" grout lines. I would prefer no grout lines but gave up on that.

2. Will the durock help with any minor stud issues as far as being flat, or will the screws deflect the durock pulling it tightly into the stud? In a couple of places I have about a 1/4" gap on part of a stud.

2. Which thinset should I use?

3. I figured a 1/4 X 1/4 X 1/4 trowel, is that OK? I would prefer to apply to the back of the marble rather than the wall. I would wipe the durock with a damp sponge before setting tile. Good or bad idea?

4 Do I seal the marble wall before grouting?

5. What is the best long term maintenance program for the marble?

I think that is it for now, the other questions I have already found the answer to on this forum. Thanks in advance for your time and assistance.

David
__________________
David
DaveY is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 10-19-2009, 11:08 AM   #2
bbcamp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
David, let me try to confuse you some more:

1) Some marble may be more miserable than others. Depends on how absorbant your choice is and how diligent your maintenance staff is. Me, I'd want the porcelain because I know how lazy I can be.

2) Make your studs straight, plumb and in plane. Then you don't have to worry about whether the screws are pulling you in or out of line.

2) Versabond should be fine.

3) Your trowel should be fine. Burn thinset onto the Durock, and burn and comb it onto the tiles, or vice-versa. Point is to get enough to hold the tile in place and not so much it oozes into the grout joint excessively. Lightly dampen the Durock, not so wet the water flows, but with a damp sponge.

4) I would.

5) Pretty much the same as for all showers: Squeegee or towel dry after each use, clean with a pH neutral cleaner, inspect the grout and caulk every 2 or 3 months and replace as needed, seal once a year or as recommended by the sealer manufacturer.
bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-19-2009, 11:13 AM   #3
Marge
Registered User
 
Marge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Arizona
Posts: 14,636
Hi David, which marble are you thinking about using?
__________________
Marge------
Marge is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-19-2009, 11:17 AM   #4
DaveY
DIY'r
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Rocky Point, NY
Posts: 12
Thanks Bob.

Hi Marge,
It is Beijing Pink.
__________________
David
DaveY is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-20-2009, 07:24 AM   #5
DaveY
DIY'r
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Rocky Point, NY
Posts: 12
One more question. I have read that in the corner do not butt againt the tiles on the ajoining wall but to leave a slight gap.
This will leave a void area behind the tile in the corner. Do you fill this with grout or do you use the thinset?
__________________
David
DaveY is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-20-2009, 07:37 AM   #6
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,410
Welcome, David.

Industry standard is to use a flexible sealant (caulk) at all changes of plane in the tile surface.

Many people grout that particular joint.

Those are bad persons. One of them is John Bridge. But one day the Caped Caulking Crusader will find him and he will pay.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-20-2009, 07:54 AM   #7
Edthedawg
Wannabe Engineer Old-house-nik DIY'er :)
 
Edthedawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: NE CT
Posts: 2,062
So... pink marble, meeting in a gapped corner, that may be grouted. unless it isn't.

Got that?

I lol'd at the thought of JB running from the Caped Caulk Crusader. good one, cx
__________________
Ed

GO SOX!

Pleased to have helped design and build many of the residential projects featured here: http://www.tandtdev.com/portfolio.html
Edthedawg is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-20-2009, 10:17 AM   #8
quinocampa
DIY'er
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 280
CX, didn't I just read you the other day in someone else's thread saying you prefer to grout the floor to wall joint, since caulk there is a non-permeable dam? I recall a line like "I've been sayin' that for years!" Personally, I'm going to caulk my vertical plane changes, and grout my horizontal floor-to-wall change.
__________________
Daniel
History
Granite tile kitchen counters
Granite/slate bathroom -- first JB-guided job. Very nice!
(4) granite window seats -- look great, holding up well
Fireplace -- Slate facade and mantel, granite hearth
Bar counter -- slate insets with oak surround
quinocampa is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-20-2009, 01:34 PM   #9
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,410
Read again, David, and you'll likely see that was for the bottom of the wall in a tub/shower. I disagree strongly with the industry on the treatment of that joint. The industry doesn't care that I disagree.

On a properly constructed shower, of any common method, there is no such problem at the wall/floor joint. Caulking there does not result in the same water collection system as in the traditionally constructed tub/shower with moisture barrier behind the wall board.










But I grout the joints in my showers, too.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-20-2009, 01:39 PM   #10
bbcamp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
Where is that Caped Caulking Crusader? Has he abandoned our fair forum to the foul clutches of the non-caulkers?

And, what of his fellow tile do-gooder, the Tile Ranger? A mere visit from him should send these scoundrals back to the cracked corners from whence they came!

Oh, the humanity!






bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-13-2009, 10:40 AM   #11
DaveY
DIY'r
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Rocky Point, NY
Posts: 12
OK, I finally have the two and 1/2 walls plumb and level. The 2x4 studs do not touch the edge of the shower pan. I think I have two choices here and not sure which is best. The shower pan sides are not straight, they are angled with a very slight lip at the top.

Vertical distance from lip to ledge is 5/8", ledge is about 1-3/4 inches wide. Horizontal distance from front edge of lip to beginning of ledge (<-->) 3/8"

acrylic shower base

.--\ <--- Lip
.....\
.......\-------| <--- Ledge
..................|
..................|---------------------- <-- Base

Here are my two options.
1. Use a 1/4" furring strip to bring stud to shower panel (against back of lip), apply 6 mil plastic over the furring strips as vapor barrier, apply cement board which will sit on and extend past the lip, apply marble leaving a 1/8" gap between shower ledge and bottom of marble.

2. Use a 3/4" furring strip and sit this on top of the shower lip, this will allow the cement board to sit inside the shower base and extend down to the ledge, put up cement board leaving 1/4" off of shower ledge, red guard the cement board, apply marble tile leaving 1/8" off of shower ledge.

In both cases silicone between cement board and shower ledge and marble tile and shower ledge.

Which option is the best? Or should i be doing it some other way.

If I go with option 2 due I still use the same mortar over the red guard or do I use a different mortar?

Thanks - I'm having fun.

David
__________________
David
DaveY is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-13-2009, 11:09 AM   #12
Edthedawg
Wannabe Engineer Old-house-nik DIY'er :)
 
Edthedawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: NE CT
Posts: 2,062
David,

2nd option would be my choice. get the board out fully in front of the flange. not just the tiled face of the board breaking the plane, so to speak.

that is, if i can actually grok your ascii "drawing".

RedGard is good and easy available and forgiving in its installation. just get it on there thick. Versabond is fine over it.

good luck - glad you're still having fun
__________________
Ed

GO SOX!

Pleased to have helped design and build many of the residential projects featured here: http://www.tandtdev.com/portfolio.html
Edthedawg is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-13-2010, 12:50 PM   #13
DaveY
DIY'r
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Rocky Point, NY
Posts: 12
OK - where am I making mistaking or is all OK?

Finally getting back to the shower - the holidays and everything else has prevented me from working on it.

Here is where I stand, I didn't like the idea of adding 3/4" furring strips to the studs and then adding 1/2 CB to it so (whether good or bad) I put up 3/4" plywood all around and am now covering it with 1/4 CB using 1 5/8" screws every 6 inches on the studs and every 12" inbetween the studs into the plywood. This will get covered with Kerdi and then the marble (12x12) over it. The kerdi will be put up with versabond (3/16x1/4 trowel), I am undecided on the installation of the marble - I am leaning towards the Marble and Granite mix made by the same company that makes the Versabond using a 1/2x1/2 trowel since the marble is ungauged.

I know the plywood may not of been a great idea, but I liked it better than furring strips - the plywood adds strength to the wall where the furring strips just extend the studs. It's to late to change that anyway, I put the plywood up with screws and adhesive so there is no way i could remove it.

Question - how long after I put the kerdi up should I wait before starting the marble install?
__________________
David
DaveY is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-13-2010, 12:57 PM   #14
Houston Remodeler
Pondering retirement daily

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Houston Remodeler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 28,236
24 hours
__________________
Paul1

For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling


http://CabotAndRowe.com
Houston Remodeler is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-14-2010, 10:27 AM   #15
DaveY
DIY'r
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Rocky Point, NY
Posts: 12
Thanks Paul.

Will I be all right using the Marble and Granite mix from Custom Blend over the Kerdi with the marble?
__________________
David
DaveY is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Still confused, sorry TSWisla Tile Forum/Advice Board 5 10-19-2009 10:56 AM
confused ziti Tile Forum/Advice Board 8 11-19-2007 07:47 AM
You've Got Me Confused Ginger Tile Forum/Advice Board 6 01-06-2005 11:01 AM
Confused mlazarski Tile Forum/Advice Board 1 08-14-2004 07:31 AM
Still Confused Unregistered Tile Forum/Advice Board 2 08-09-2004 02:23 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:05 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2023, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC