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Unread 11-28-2007, 06:37 PM   #1
ihs
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Hiring a Tiler What to look for?

Hi, my husband and I met with a tiler today. I have a couple of concerns. Number 1 he tiles up to the baseboard rather than taking it up and tiling under it. I'm not sure how this will look? Secondly, he says it isn't necessary to seal the grout. Can I get some input from some professionals? I don't mind paying the price, but I want it to look professional. Thanks, Judy
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Unread 11-28-2007, 06:51 PM   #2
cx
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Welcome, Judy.

If you want your tile under the baseboard, tell him that. Then y'all can decide who removes and replaces said baseboard and at what price. But just for fun axe him what goes between the tile and the baseboard when done his way. That will help enlighten you about his knowledge of his trade.

Sealing floor grout joints can help a great deal in the cleaning and maintaining of the floor. Again, if you want it done, tell him so and then y'all can decide who is to do it and at what price.

But if you are going to let him decide the scope of the work instead of his giving you a bid on the work you want done, you'll hafta take whatever he wants to do, eh? I wouldn't recommend that. He should be advising you on technical matters of the work and then giving you a price to do what you want done.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-28-2007, 07:52 PM   #3
ceramictec
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there are a few ways to deal with your base and I give
people a price quote for all 4 if they are undecided.

1) tile up to base
2) under cut base with undercut saw to slide tile under
3) install 1/4" round
4) remove base and re install

I also don't like sealing grout because on most sealers they require a grout curing
time of 48 to 72 hours before you can seal. but will include it if the customer wants it.

if they want to pay for one of my full days 3 days after done to come back I will add
it in the total cost for sure. sealing is easy and a homeowner can surely do it.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 04:11 PM   #4
LeslieS
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You can do the sealing yourself if sealing poses a scheduling problem for the tiler. You can get a good sealer online on this site that isn't at all smelly or hard to work with. Takes a couple of hours, depending on the size of the tiles and the size of the room.

Another compromise on the base is to take up the quarter round shoe molding yourself, let the tiler tile to the base and put new quarter round down. That way, the top edge of the baseboard continues to match the top edge in the rest of the house. Won't work so well if you can't match the paint, though.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 04:57 PM   #5
English Gaz
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Over in England we have a great grout protector...made by Italian firm
It is an impregnator..once soaked in stops any oils or stains from penetrating,one 500ml bottle will protect 100 linear metres of grout lines
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Unread 11-29-2007, 05:41 PM   #6
tilerite
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There are now a number of stain proof grouts on the market. I've been using XT by Tec, with excellent results, but it only comes in eight colors. If you are not using stain proof or epoxy grout, you will absolutely want to seal it or it will be stained and discolored in weeks if not days.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 07:12 PM   #7
irish tileguy in michigan
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RICK,
you should get a new sample chart,they have more colours now,
i only found out 4 weeks ago, we use xt all the time now, excellent grout.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 08:41 PM   #8
GoodHouse
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One should only tile to baseboard / moldings when they absolutely have to. For instance in a veryy old house with large base with 25 coats of paint on it. But in average homes, always remove base and put back on or add shoe molding. But Never tile to base. It doesnt look right. Particularly when adding substrates.

I charge about 1.10 LF remove and reset baseboard. I caulk and fill nail holes, customer does paint/touch ups. Note that sometimes baseboards crack, break, damage occurs. Its normal.

Undercutting all baseboard?? That takes a long time, makes a big mess and will make your baseboard look shorter than the rest of the house.
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Unread 11-30-2007, 05:55 AM   #9
sdaniels7114
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I still come across a lot of lathe and plaster walls behind six inch base held on with real loooonnnngggg nails. I swear that base must have been in the shape of a Banana before it was attached to the walls or the carpenter wouldn't have chosen such gigantic spikes to fasten it. The curved shape must have made it easier to get real long stock into the house I suppose.

Anyway good luck with R&Ring that stuff.
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