Tile to wood transition in a 1920s Craftsman

[aa7483]

Hello everyone. I have a 1920s craftsman. I'm remodeling a small first floor bath. The flooring in the main part of the house is 3/4 tounge and groove wood original to the house. I gutted the bath and removed the rotted tounge and groove beneath the tile and replaced it with 3/4 ply and 1/4 hardibacker on top. Im tiling with mosaics. If I use a Schluter reno u trim the edge of the backer remains exposed since the 3/4 ply sits even wirh the tounge and groove. Whats the best way to transition to the wood and hide the backerboard edge?

[mykcuz]

Matching wood transition strip, or marble saddle.

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[aa7483]

So your saying I can get a wood transition that will have roughly a 1/2 rise to cover both tile and backerboard. That would work. If I do a marble transition wouldnt that sit on top of the backer and create the same exposed backer issue?

[Tool Guy - Kg]

If you keep your plywood as is, you could taper a ~3/4” piece of hardwood so that it slopes from 3/16” (hardwood side) to ~3/4” on the tile side. Depending on where you want to locate this in relation to the door while it’s in the closed position, you might want to trim some of the Hardiebacker away. What I mean is that this hardwood threshold could be completely on top of the hardwood...completely on top of the plywood...or somewhere in between. Site conditions usually influence your options.

If you removed the plywood directly under the threshold or replaced that with a thinner thickness, the threshold would be dropped down a little. That means that the thinner side of the threshold could be dropped down flush with the hardwood. That would allow a threshold that was dead flush at the hardwood and tile side. The most minimalistic approach. That would be a nice, custom touch if you didn’t mind the finicky woodworking.

[aa7483]

I like the idea of keeping the tile/hardi at the current height. Next year , I plan to either refinish the existing floors or float a new floor on top. Adding either a tile to wood- wooden transition or beveling a piece of 3/4 hardwood gives me the option to remove it down the line if I float a floor on top. IF I go the hardwood route should I still use some type of schluter edge on the tile and butt up to that?

[cx]

You can if you want, Anthony, but I'd just leave a gap between wood and tile and fill with a color-matched caulk.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[aa7483]

Thank you

[aa7483]

While I have you guys I have 2 more questions. Instead of posting a new thread, I figured I'd just add them here.

1: I laid a small hex mosaic on the floor. 1/8 grout lines. Tile mostly matte with just a hint of shine when the light hits it. Should I go sanded or non sanded with the grout? I know 1/8 is usually the switching point.

2: I have a small 36 x 36 neo angle shower. The top of the curb is 4.5. Once you add the tile you are at 5" I considered either doing the same 4 x 12 subway tiiles I have on the wall on top with some rondec profile on both sides or using marble. I like the marble idea however I can only find it in 6" widths. Thats going to give me 1/2" over hang on both sides, maybe slightly less with the thinset. I hate to hang over that much especially on the inside since its such a small shower. I imagine I wont get a very clean edge if I rip it down some.

[ss3964spd]

1) Sanded, definitely.

2) A stone fabrication shop will be able to rip the marble down to the width you need and ease the sharp edge too. Same shop is also likely to have remnants of other solid surface materials, in different colors, that they can also cut for you.

[aa7483]

Now that I think about it, I have a wet polisher I purchased for a concrete countertop project I did a few years back. I can probably rip it down on my wet saw and clean the edge up myself right? What kind of over hang is recommended I want to keep it minimal since the inside of the shower is tight to begin with.

[Tool Guy - Kg]

That wet polisher is exactly the right tool for cleaning up that edge after being ripped down to width. And marble is easy-peasy to get a shine.

The overhang is a preference thing. I prefer something in the neighborhood of 3/16" to 1/14".

[aa7483]

Great. Thank you . I guess I should select a piece then that doesn't have a bevel on it since I won't be able to bevel after I cut? Or maybe I'll just put the bevel toward the outside and put the cut facing in.

[Tool Guy - Kg]

If your saw tilts, you could rip, then bevel, then polish both facets. Whatever your preference.

But with such a long saddle, it will likely be much easier to do that if you were to add a temporary rail to slide it through...something that would serve as a guide similar to a tablesaw top and fence combo. Perhaps a long piece of plywood with a cleat clamped to the tilesaw’s tray.