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Unread 12-23-2008, 08:12 PM   #31
Big Jim
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So for my first tile job, how much thin-set should I mix at one time? Can I add a little more water when it starts to "dry"? Is there a rule of thumb on how much to mixe when the job is a "one man show"...mix the this-set, set the tiles , mix moe, set more, etc.
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Unread 12-23-2008, 08:15 PM   #32
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mix alittle since your not gonna be fast like us, we all probably mix full 3.5 buckets at a time for floors well thats what i do, for walls ill mix half of a 3.5 bucket at a time. you cant add water to thinset either, you can remix it with your drill and it will tampen up a bit most lightly 1st stage modified thinsets have a long pot life something like superflex has a short pot life and sets up or drys rather quickly
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Unread 12-23-2008, 08:16 PM   #33
Big Jim
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So for my first tile job, how much thin-set should I mix at one time? Can I add a little more water when it starts to "dry"? Is there a rule of thumb on how much to mix when the job is a "one man show"...mix the thin-set, set the tiles , mix moe, set more, etc.
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Unread 12-23-2008, 08:56 PM   #34
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Very difficult question, Jim. Varies considerably by the individual and the job and the type of mortar, and...........stuff.

Start by mixing up whatever amount you get when starting with one inch of water inna bottom of a five gallon bucket.

Mix it a lot. Mix it for five minutes. Let it slake for ten to fifteen minutes. Mix it again for two minutes. Use it.

If you run out way before you were done "lickin' and stickin', mix more next time. You end up tossin' some out because it set up inna bucket, mix less next time.

Do not "re-temper" it will more water after it's mixed. Bozo no-no. Yeah, the big guy cheat, but one day they'll pay full price. Don't do that. Your pookey starts settin' up too much inna bucket to use, toss it out and mix you a little less next time.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-23-2008, 09:14 PM   #35
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Agree with Rick about re-mixing. Sometimes a bucket can start to stiffen up on you and you might think its gone, but scrape it down and re-mix it without adding water and it is still workable and good to use.
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Unread 12-23-2008, 09:24 PM   #36
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Jim,

Please don't post redundant questions in different threads. You have multiple people duplicating efforts as they're trying to help you. I've merged your posts to keep your questions in one place.
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Unread 12-28-2008, 09:52 PM   #37
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Needed a few days to figure out a couple of shower design "issues" and some "healing time" after a beautiful "butt plant" when I slipped on my iced over driveway (my neighbor scored it a 9.5.)

We're ready to get to the tinling "fun" and have two questions...

1. Can a 4" wet saw do the cutting job on 12" by 12" tiles? Looking to buy something so I don't have to rush to get a rental back.

2. Any easy way to cut out a 1" and 2" hole for the shower head and valve?

Jim
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Unread 12-30-2008, 10:44 AM   #38
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Hardibacker

Hi Big Jim...for what it's worth: did a total gut of moldy bathroom, put 1/2" hardibacker on walls and ceiling, with the recommended screws. used 4mil PE vapor barrier, nothing on top of the cbu. taped and filled the joints with thinset, per hardie instructions, then used thinset to set the tiles. worked beautifully, even on ceiling (but used the so-called pre-mix thinset on ceiling). no corner beads at all. I mixed up about 25 lb of the thinset at a time, any more and it would probably set up before i could use it. had a cuppla hi spots i could've sanded better b4 tiling, but it still came out well. I used carbide hole saw for cutting both cbu and tile. larger wet saw for cutting straight cuts...cheapo 7"(?) wetsaw I got at HD. i used sanded grout...even for the floor-wall and wall-ceiling joints. I was originally going to use matching caulk over the grout...but decided not to. Anyway, other than the the sanding of the joints where I am painting the cbu rather than tiling....I'm done, and very happy with the way the hardibacker installed. if nothing else... this should tell you that a simple diyer can get good results with the hardibacker. btw..this is 2nd bathroom i've done-in the first, i only used the hardibacker on the tub surround, left the drywall for the rest. wish i had done the whole br in hardibacker.
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Unread 12-30-2008, 08:26 PM   #39
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The hardi worked out pretty well for me. I painted a couple of gallons of Redgard as was recommended by CX.

As of now I have only one bad speed bump issue to deal with but some flexible mosaic trim looks like it will work. I'm spending more time measuring over and over to make sure everything "fits."


Is there a drill bit I can buy to cut out 1-2" holes in ceramic?
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Unread 12-31-2008, 05:42 AM   #40
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Yes. Do a web search on diamond tipped hole saws.
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Unread 01-09-2009, 12:10 AM   #41
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Tiling finally done and looking good except for the tile whose spacer fell out and slipped a bit. Does that mean my thinset wasn't thick enough?

Grouting tomorrow raises a question...

Can I spread grout over all 60 sq ft at one time??...Or is it better to work in 20 feet sections (one wall) at a time? Any suggestions?

Is there a water proof grout you recommend? Or can I seal whatever grout I use and not worry about it?
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Unread 01-09-2009, 12:46 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Jim
Does that mean my thinset wasn't thick enough?
No, it means that gravity still works.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Jim
Can I spread grout over all 60 sq ft at one time??...Or is it better to work in 20 feet sections (one wall) at a time?
I think you could do it all at once but much depends on your speed. You want to make sure you are starting the clean-up near the specified time. i.e. Don't wait too long before getting started. If the grout is hardening faster than you can get it clean you will have a real mess on your hands.

The only grouts that don't need sealing are the epoxy or urethane based grouts. The cementious base grouts all need sealing but it still doesn't make them waterproof. Water gets through the grout...that's why you used all that RedGard.

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Unread 01-09-2009, 10:38 AM   #43
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Thanks for the advice, Brian. Any additional advice/thoughts on using a pre mixed grout?

Got time today, expecting 5" snow!!! Rather grout than shovel.
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Unread 01-09-2009, 11:25 AM   #44
Brian in San Diego
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Jim,

I wouldn't use a pre-mixed anything as it relates to tile work. I think you should use a grout you mix up like thinset or an epoxy system.

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Unread 01-12-2009, 11:51 AM   #45
Big Jim
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Did NOT use the premixed grout. Upon drying, I noticed slight color variations in various seams and areas. Was this a function of how I cleaned the grout? The batches were mixed very thoroughly and according to directions. Was it possible to "wipe out" some color in my cleaning process?

Anything special for the sealing and caulking process? I redgarded the CBU but did NOT caulk the small gap between the CBU and the pan. The tiles overlap the pan flang and I've presumed that the caulking will be enough. Then I should be done on the shower space.

Do you recommend a new thread for the floor issues, if any, or should I keep this one going on to the end of the full project.
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