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11-10-2005, 03:29 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 29
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Right way to handle joint between countertop & backsplash?
Just had new silestone countertops installed . I'm using some 2 x 2 porcelain mosaic tile for a backsplash.
I'm putting up some 1/4 inch ditra over the existing drywall and while I've read you can use mastic--I planned on using thinset for the tile.
My question is what's the right way to handle the joint where the tile backsplash meets the counter top?
I've read there should be an 1/8 gap and this is filled with caulk--not grout or mortar..
Anything else I need to know?...................Thanks----
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11-10-2005, 04:10 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
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Yep, leave a gap and caulk it.
1/4" Ditra? You don't need anything on your drywall, you can set the tiles directly on it.
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11-10-2005, 04:31 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbcamp
Yep, leave a gap and caulk it.
1/4" Ditra? You don't need anything on your drywall, you can set the tiles directly on it.
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When I pulled off the old tile---it left a few rough spots in the existing drywall----part of the cardboard cover was torn though nothing going down to the gypsum core.....
I didn't want to cut out the old drywall and install new---and I don't want to add too much thickness to the existing wall so 1/4 inch ditra seemed like the best choice.
I put drywall joint compound over the rough spots---the wall is level........is this adequate?
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11-10-2005, 06:17 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
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A bit of torn or missing paper here or there isn't anything to worry about.
I questioned the 1/4" Ditra because it is a waffle-shaped membrane that's only 1/8" thick. Were you thinking cement backerboard?, Or were you thinking the Ditra could "repair" the drywall? If that's the case, don't bother. You have to thinset Ditra to the drywall, so any problems that would stop a tile installation would stop a Ditra installation.
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11-10-2005, 06:32 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbcamp
A bit of torn or missing paper here or there isn't anything to worry about.
I questioned the 1/4" Ditra because it is a waffle-shaped membrane that's only 1/8" thick. Were you thinking cement backerboard?, Or were you thinking the Ditra could "repair" the drywall? If that's the case, don't bother. You have to thinset Ditra to the drywall, so any problems that would stop a tile installation would stop a Ditra installation.
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Ooops---not ditra---meant 1/4 inch hardi-backer.
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11-10-2005, 06:33 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
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OK, then. Will you have any exposed edges deal with?
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11-10-2005, 07:12 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 151
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Your best off to just tile over the drywall. Don't bother with the hardibacker
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11-10-2005, 07:22 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbcamp
OK, then. Will you have any exposed edges deal with?
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No---the top edge butts against the bottom of the cabinets.
On the ends it's next to some wood trim.
I thought the joint between the counter & the backsplash was just grouted but I've been going through the "backsplash" threads here and found a few talking about the 1/8 inch gap and using caulk.
I was just wondering if there were any particular things about this I should do...what kind of caulk---also I was wondering what color.
The counter is very dark charcoal--almost black----the backsplash is a very light grey with slightly darker grout.
I'm guessing the caulk bead should be light/not dark colored........
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11-10-2005, 07:52 PM
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#9
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Tile Contractor Central Ky Area
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave B
I'm guessing the caulk bead should be light/not dark colored........
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Most major grout manufactures will have a caulk available that is color matched to their grout. Most of the times you can even get it in sanded or non-sanded caulk to match the grout.
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11-11-2005, 05:21 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 5,383
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the box stores carry the most common caulk colors, but if you go to a real tile store you can get really confused!  (ie, lots of colors)
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11-17-2005, 03:25 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 29
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Handling gap between counter top & backsplash.
When the new counter was installed they left a 7/16 gap between the back edge of the new counter and the drywall.
The tile I plan on using for the new backsplash is 5/16 thick. Figure another 1/16-1/8 inch for mastic and the edge on my new backsplash is just about even with the back edge of the counter.
Any problems with this? Should there be something under the tile. Will the caulk cover this small gap?
l < drywall
7/16 gap l
___________________ l
____________________l__l I
counter
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11-17-2005, 03:29 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 29
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OK--forget the "drawing".......that didn't help at all.
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11-17-2005, 05:09 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Chicago burbs
Posts: 20
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Caulk is your friend.
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11-18-2005, 09:45 PM
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#14
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,463
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I trust this is the same countertop, Dave, so I merged your threads. Keep it all in one place to prevent confusion and duplication, please.
Did you install the CBU on the wall, or no?
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11-22-2005, 04:46 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cx
I trust this is the same countertop, Dave, so I merged your threads. Keep it all in one place to prevent confusion and duplication, please.
Did you install the CBU on the wall, or no?
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I haven't grouted yet--but the tile's all up. I skipped the hardibacker (which I'll use on my next project) and went directly over the drywall.
For my first wall--I'm very happy with way it came out. Eevrything looks nice & need around the edges---I made some new window trim out of maple that looks nice alongside the tile----and I bought the Felker TM-75....
That thing is nice----
All I can compare it to is the one I rented last year when I did my floor.
It was an MK---much bigger but it didn't cut nearly as well as the Felker.
It was a screamer too compared with the Felker.
It's set up right in my kitchen and other than a small bit of water on the floor---it doesn't spray any where near much water as the MK did....
As always--the advice here is great.......................
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