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Unread 04-21-2021, 05:29 PM   #76
Sclib
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CBU Taped!!!

Made some progress today. Still a little sanding to do once it’s dry but walls are prepped for RedGard.

I pushed thinset into the larger joints and then laid tape over joints and coated to make sure the joints were full of thinset.

I am now pondering my next step. RedGard or lay floor tile?

CX.....if I decide to do floor tile next, can I just remove plastic just prior to laying tile OR does mud bed need to be uncovered for any length of time before tiling?

Any reason why I wouldn’t want to tile floor prior to wall membrane? I can always cover tile to protect it from RedGard.

Just trying to figure out if there is a “best practices rule” here?

Be safe out there.
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Unread 04-22-2021, 06:23 AM   #77
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Scott, no need to let the mud breath after removing the plastic.

Many people like to do the wall tile before the floor tile. Mishaps happen, and it's much easier to make a repair in a mud bed than it is to remove/replace a tile should something fall on the floor and break one.

That said, I did my floor first, even grouted it first, and covered it well afterwards. I had no problems, maybe I was just lucky. I also didn't have to mess with RedGard.
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Unread 04-23-2021, 06:53 PM   #78
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Thumbs up Floor tile dry placed

Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd
Scott, no need to let the mud breath after removing the plastic
Thanks Dan, appreciate the input. I had a timing issue because someone is staying in our casita where this shower is....they were out of the unit for 3 days and I didn’t want to do full RedGard treatment and stink up the place.....but did want a little membrane down low as outlined below.

Went ahead and kind of did a hybrid on the RedGard. What I really wanted was to have RedGard on CBU lower than the floor tile (Don’t ask me why.....I have no clue...and no, I did not RedGard the mud pan....you guys have taught me well). So, went ahead and did a prime coat 1/2 way up per Custom instructions....1 part RedGard to 4 parts water... (will prime rest of walls prior to full RedGard treatment) then put 2 coats normal strength about 2 inches up on bottom of CBU. Just an FYI for anyone priming walls with RedGard, a little goes a long way diluted like that for priming. Intended to only go up the wall 2 to 3” but had a lot more material than I needed. Not wanting to waste it, I primed 1/2 way up the walls.

Got the floor tile dry placed and hoping to thinset down tomorrow. Obviously joint lines aren’t in their final resting place and, I’m not happy with tiles around the drain. Other than that I’m happy overall. I did the tiles around drain with my budget Ryobi wet saw but it didn’t handle the small cuts very well. Thinking about trying to redo some of those drain pieces with my angle grinder tomorrow prior to setting.

Anyone have any tips for making those awkward little cuts (stinkin hex tile!!) around the drain?

In looking at the photos, I do notice there is more of the light grey/white tiles on the left side. Prior to mortar, I will probably relocate a few of those to the right side to balance out the look a bit.

Any other comments or criticisms before I stick it down?

Be safe out there.
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Unread 04-24-2021, 12:36 PM   #79
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Thinset question

Just making sure before I set the floor tile.

I want to use a polymer modified thinset on the floor right?

I know it’s what I use on the wall tiles.....just wanted to double check.

Don’t want anything stopping the water from soaking down to the liner as it is supposed to do.
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Unread 04-24-2021, 04:53 PM   #80
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Yes, that's the correct thinset to use.
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Unread 04-29-2021, 09:52 AM   #81
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Floor tile set…question on curb?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DAVY
Yes, that's the correct thin-set to use.
Thanks Davy….floor set using white PM Versabond. Figured there was no need to use the more expensive Mapei LFT I have for the larger wall tiles.

For anyone following this thread, I started out using a 1/4”x1/4” square notched trowel for the 2 1/2” hex tiles with 1/8” grout line. It put down way to much mortar and was making a mess. Switched to a 3/16”x1/4” notched trowel and it was just right. Gave me aprox 95% coverage. While I still had a little squeeze out, it was minimal compared to the larger trowel.

Now about my curb……I noticed this and mentioned it in an earlier post….but now it’s time to address it.

There is a dip on the inside (shower facing) wall of my curb (see pic). It measures aprox 1/4” at its deepest point. Is it OK to fill this with Thinset prior to setting tile on that face or just beef up thinset in that area while setting curb tile?OR is there some other material I should use?

And yes, the larger hex tile around the drain was a big PITA!!!!!

As always, comments and criticisms welcome.

Thanks and be safe out there.
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Unread 04-29-2021, 12:05 PM   #82
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First, make sure that 2x4 is straight. So many times it's the board and not the mud. Also, make sure you don't have a hump in the mud at the ends that is causing it to look like a dip. Thinset isn't designed to fill in dips but we've all done it, especially if it less than 1/4 inch deep.
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Unread 04-29-2021, 04:23 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAVY
First, make sure that 2x4 is straight. So many times it's the board and not the mud. Also, make sure you don't have a hump in the mud at the ends that is causing it to look like a dip. Thinset isn't designed to fill in dips but we've all done it, especially if it less than 1/4 inch deep.
Thanks Davy, checked and 2x4 is straight (also checked with metal straight edge with same result). Also no high spots on ends causing issse….but I had not thought of that.

So, with that figured out, would it be best to level that area with skim coat and let dry OR just beef that area up when setting curb tile? Does it make a difference either way?
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Unread 04-30-2021, 06:02 AM   #84
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Scott, trying to beef up that low area with mortar and then set tile on it in one go would be a challenge for my skills, and would likely result in excessive mortar squeeze into the grout joints. So I'd want to level it off first, let it set, then tile it.
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Unread 04-30-2021, 10:19 PM   #85
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Thanks Dan!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
So I'd want to level it off first, let it set, then tile it.
Dan, thanks for the insight. Had some more relatives show up today and staying out where shower’s located (everyone loves Southern AZ in the Spring ).

Should be able to get back in there Monday and shore up that curb dip and start Redgarding my walls.

Thanks again and be safe out there!!!
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Unread 05-06-2021, 12:11 PM   #86
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First coat RedGard

Primer coat and first coat of RedGard done. In doing this with a rough nap roller as recommended by Custom, there are a lot of little pin holes in the CBU that did not get good coverage. I’m going to need to go back in with the second coat and use a brush to hit the pin holes…….prior to second roller coat.

Also, i went ahead and used fiberglass tape 3/4 of the way up each corner and at the bottom of the niche. This was optional according to the manufacturer but figured it couldn’t hurt.

Getting closer to wall tile!!!

Be safe out there.
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Unread 05-08-2021, 02:51 PM   #87
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Exclamation Starting Wall tile….help wanted

Have 3 full coats of RedGard dry and I’m ready to start tile on back wall of shower. Looking for some advice on using a ledger board. I searched the Liberry and did a general search and saw nothing on use/placement of ledger boards? Probably missing it.

Should I just measure from ceiling and place top of ledger board at 8 tiles (say 84” plus 1” for my (8) 1/8” grout lines?

Using 12x24 tile and planning staggering them in a horizontal pattern.

Looking for some advice on the use of the ledger board as well as any tips on staggering the tiles in my 48”x36” shower. Running tiles all the way to ceiling which is 92 1/2” (obviously not 92 1/2” straight across ceiling.

What is the best way to ensure I end up with a full tile at the ceiling…or at least close to it? (Is there a trick other than measuring? The 1/8” grout lines are throwing me off in my mind). Is it pretty much a given that I will have to cut the top tile?

Should I shoot for using full tile at bottom or plan on cutting one at bottom?

I have seen mention of a story board when doing my layout….is this a good tool/method?

Would it help to draw out the layout on paper?

Any other general layout advice given the information I have shared?

Thanks and be safe out there?
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Unread 05-08-2021, 03:04 PM   #88
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If you're wanting full tiles at the ceiling, lay out enough tiles on the floor with spacers added, then get a measurement of that distance. If the ceiling is not level, figure from the highest point, then cut it in the rest of the way around. If you want to cut it everywhere at the ceiling to be on the safe side, raise the whole layout a half inch or so.

I've never drawn it out on paper.

I'm not sure that your Redgard is thick enough. When I get it to credit card thickness, you can't see the Durock print thru it.
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Unread 05-08-2021, 03:21 PM   #89
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Scott, it's frequently helpful to lay your tiles out on the floor using the spacers you'll use on the wall. That will let you see a full scale version and allow you to determine where you'll need/want cuts.

I generally set a ledger board in that application such that I must cut a little off the bottom of all the bottom row of tiles for a good fit after the floor tiles have been set, but that's certainly not a requirement.
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Unread 05-08-2021, 07:41 PM   #90
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Good advice as always. Rant on RedGard instructions!

Thanks guys…appreciate the quick feedback.

Please know in advance that I appreciate the sharing of knowledge that comes out of this forum. The rant below is simply my way of venting (and possibly helping others) about gibberish RedGard installation instructions put out mainly by the manufacturer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Davy
I'm not sure that your Redgard is thick enough. When I get it to credit card thickness, you can't see the Durock print thru it.
Davy, are you putting RedGard on with a trowel? That seems to me the only way to get CC thickness without a ridiculous number of coats with a roller.

That photo was with primer and 2 coats. I put a third coat on yesterday and pic is below. You can still see Durock logo thru RedGard. I understand where you are coming from because I have seen this same Credit Card Thickness reference before (but never on the manufacturer’s website or product). I have seen reference from the Mfg not to exceed 125 mils. Have never seen a minimum thickness in mils from the Mfg. (Not saying it’s not out there from the Mfg, just haven’t seen it).

Mfg, says coverage for general waterproof membrane (does that mean shower walls?) should be about 55sf per gallon…..2 coats. I have 80sf I am waterproofing so I used 1 1/2 gallons….which got me a primer coat mixed with water, 3 full coats with a roller (brush in corners and niche) and 2 coats of spot coverage with the brush on pinholes. I alternated direction of roller with each coat/layer (vertical then horizontal strokes).

So, of course wanting to do it right, Davys comment got me thinking……so I confirmed all this on Mfg website, including using a 3/4” nap Rough textured roller and a brush to apply.

I have come to this conclusion…..there is no way to get credit card thickness using recommended roller and 2 coats (I primed walls and have applied 3 coats so far and am no where near 25mils). My guess is you would need 8-10 coats to get anywhere near the 25mil mark. This is way to much labor (8 coats x1.5 hours dry time between coats = 12 hours dry time alone. Not to mention time and energy involved to roll on each coat….add another 6-10 hours when you consider clean up after each coat).

I have also come to the conclusion that the Mfg instructions are confusing at best, and downright incorrect at worst.

Further, I found a you tube video put out by the Mfg on how to apply their product. It confirms 2 coats with a roller (and brush for corners) for waterproofing. Also, the guy in the Mfg video is shown setting tile after the 2 coats and you can clearly see the CBU logo showing thru the RedGard (see attached screenshot from Custom install video on You Tube).

Here is the video….if link below does not take you to the video, you can search for Custom Video on installing RedGard on You Tube. https://youtu.be/EsbFHd66tf8

Then I go to Customs material calculator, and it tells me I need 3.5 gallons of RedGard for 80sf!!!!! (This would confirm Davy’s comment of CC thickness but is contrary to other instructions on Custom website and instructional video).

If you can’t tell, Custom has me fuming right now. As a DIYr trying to do everything right, the last thing I need is confusing, conflicting info coming from the Mfg of the product.

This will force a call to Custom on Monday to see how they respond to these questions/concerns.

To further add to my confusion, there is a member (retired moderator) on this forum, with over 16,000 posts, who advocates 2 coats RedGard and call it good (granted this was several years ago). I have posted a screenshot of one of his posts.

Thanks for bringing it to my attention. I will go ahead and roll on the other 1/2 gallon I have on hand and hold off on tile until I talk to Custom. The good news is that no matter what I find out, Davy’s comment was made pre tile installation. So RedGard install can be done correctly at this point.

I am going to tackle my tub/shower walls after I finish with this shower. At this point, I will be researching alternative waterproofing methods.

Be safe out there!!!
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