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Unread 05-13-2020, 01:28 PM   #1
Clarkwgriswald
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Subfloor height where tub deck was

Hi All,

Renovating a 2nd floor master bath where we had a tub deck surrounded with tile. I've attached a few pics. The area where the tub sat is 1 inch OSB. Looks lime the tiled area next to it is sitting on concrete that is about 1/2 inch high. Wanted some advice how to get the two floors even. Could I use 1/2 inch exterior grade plywood and then go over both the plywood and concrete with ditra so it flows smoothly? Open for suggestions if there is a better way. Thanks!!!

Ricj
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Unread 05-13-2020, 03:46 PM   #2
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Welcome, Rick.

Do we understand that you plan for that to be open floor space now? No tub or shower in that location?

If you can determine that your deck mud (hopefully what your "concrete" really is) is actually at least 3/4" thick, you could continue it over the remainder of your floor to get an exact height match.

But whatever you do, it's not gonna work well if you plan to continue the existing tile pattern. You'll need to make a "soft" joint in your tile installation directly above that change in substrate and that won't be too attractive with that layout. That would still be necessary if you used your plywood and Ditra solution.

I would be a little concerned with the described 1" OSB. While I've heard of it, the only 1" OSB I've ever seen was only 1" thick because it had previously gotten wet and was swollen to that dimension. That material never regains it's previous dimension once wet.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 05-13-2020, 04:05 PM   #3
Clarkwgriswald
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Thanks for input CX! Here you go:

1. Rechecked and the OSB is 23/32
2. I'm removing that square tile as well. I'd like to tile the whole bathroom with 12 x 24 porcelain tiles.
3. That area where the tub deck was we intend to put a stand alone tub.

Thanks.

Rick
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Unread 05-13-2020, 04:15 PM   #4
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If you remove the existing tile and the mud under it you'd have the option of doing a new mortar bed on the entire floor with deck mud of a minimum 3/4" thickness over expanded metal lath.

Or you could install a second layer of nominal 1/2" plywood and your Ditra or similar.

In theory, if your joist spacing is no more than 16" on center you could install the Ditra or a 1/4" CBU over what you've got, but I'd not recommend that if you have room for more plywood or mortar.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 05-13-2020, 05:12 PM   #5
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I agree that would be a better option to get the floor completely uniform. What would you recommend is the best way to remove the existing tile and mortar bed?

And joist spacing is 16" on center.

Thank you!!!

Rick
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Unread 05-13-2020, 05:19 PM   #6
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Since you have an edge to start from, I'd get a good sized crowbar and a small sledge and start at that edge under it. I think it will come up fairly easily.
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Unread 05-13-2020, 09:19 PM   #7
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Thank you, I'll give it a shot.
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Unread 05-18-2020, 11:12 AM   #8
Clarkwgriswald
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no screws in OSB subfloor

HI All,

Very grateful for all of the advice on this site. I recently took up the floor in my master bath which had a tub deck and tile over mortar over the rest. The subfloor is 23/32 OSB which seems to mainly be glued to the joists. I see very few nails into the joists. The OSB does seem to be installed perpendicular to the joists. Its squeaking like crazy as well so I was wondering what I should use to secure this layer to the joists. My plan is to put 1/2 or 5/8 inch plywood on top using deck screws to secure it to the OSB, then a layer of ditra and then 12 x 24 inch porcelain tiles.

Thanks for the help!

Rick
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Unread 05-18-2020, 11:21 AM   #9
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Rick, we've merged your two threads since they appear to concern the same project. Having all the history about a project helps all contributors by having the big picture. We can rename your thread to anything you like.

You should take the time to screw the existing 3/4" OSB to the joists, 2" construction or deck screws will do the trick. Then you can install your second layer of plywood, keeping it perpendicular to the joists and overlapping the seams of the 1st layer by not less than 6". 1 5/8" construction or deck screws will work, and it is recommended that you avoid the joists.
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Unread 05-18-2020, 05:00 PM   #10
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Thanks Dan for combining the posts and advice.

Rick
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Unread 05-19-2020, 10:49 AM   #11
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Relocate drain

Would like some thoughts on moving a shower drain. I'm expanding the shower a bit from an angled pan to a rectangular pan about 34 x 48. I'd like the shower drain centered in the floor. In the photo, the WD-40 can is the location of the new hole. Will have to go through a joist to get to this new location. Another option, I noticed Schluter makes a horizontal drain that you could use with foam board so its pitched and able to use the existing drain. Wondering what the best option is to approach this?

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Unread 05-19-2020, 11:41 AM   #12
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I'd be inclined to center it, Rick, but you won't know if there's anything in the way of doing so unless you pull up a section of the floor. Depending on where the joist is getting the drain completely centered in both dimensions might not be possible.
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Unread 05-19-2020, 12:37 PM   #13
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There's less likelihood of crud accumulating on the surface of the drain pipe if it's vertical versus horizontal. After the p-trap, it doesn't matter,as much, since you shouldn't be hit by any smells that may develop.

There are some specific rules about where and how big of a hole you can make in a joist...know these before you start, otherwise, you may create more problems than you want. Also, keep in mind that the line must have the proper slope, and depending on where your vent is for that drain, moving it may mean it would no longer pass code. On a 2" line, the vent must come off of the trap arm within 5' in the UPC. IPC allows it to be further away. You need to know which code your locale uses.
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Unread 06-05-2020, 05:28 PM   #14
Clarkwgriswald
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Update

Update on bathroom:

Removed tile and mud down to subfloor
Had a plumber relocate shower and tub drains.
Replaced 3/4 " OSB subfloor where plumber cut out sections.
Added deck screws to subfloor for support. Added layer of 1/2" (BCX grade) plywood on top. Plywood parallel to subfloor and staggered about 8 inches from OSB, and attached with deck screws (not to joists).

Adding a layer of Ditra then 12x24 porcelain on top.

Question - plywood has 1/8 gap around the sheets, does it matter if these are filled with thinset when I put down the ditra? Also, what is premium unmodified thinset for the ditra?

Thanks
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Unread 06-06-2020, 06:40 AM   #15
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Rick,

It won't matter if some thinset mortar gets into that 1/8" sheet gap. Dry plywood, installed in an already climate controlled house is very stable, and the relatively small bit of mortar isn't going to inhibit what little expansion of the ply may occur.

Generally speaking, you want a modified thinset mortar when setting anything on plywood, even though Schluter says premium unmodified. If you feel you absolutely must use an unmodified Schluter recommends one of theirs, but there are others. I've read here that you don't want to use the inexpensive Custom unmodified from Depot.
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