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Unread 05-19-2020, 08:59 AM   #76
ss3964spd
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That piece of wood is strange, but probably there so they'd have something to screw the flange to.

The instructions for DH detail how far you need to keep it from the toilet flange, and I don't recall seeing a mention between wax and other type of sealing rings.

Good call on the drywall.
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Unread 05-19-2020, 12:27 PM   #77
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haha thanks. as i now say "do it right, the second time first."

spec on ditra heat is 7" from center line of drain. i was thinking maybe going 10" with a wax ring as its a bit of a higher impact if it leaks (as someone lives below my unit). the rubber ones look intriguing, but have mixed reviews from what i can tell at various online sources (home depot .com etc.).
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Unread 05-26-2020, 02:18 PM   #78
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tile on drywall?

been going back and forth on the last "column" of tile that would be on the very edge of the transition between kerdi waterproofing + hardie backer and the drywall (edge transitions of alcove shower). is it ok to just tile on the drywall using all-set? (it wouldn't be in the shower, but right on the edge). or should I put some additional kerdi over the drywall (hardie+kerdi transition), then tile over that (concern here is buildup)? Or would it be better to use some sort of adhesive?

i have some bull nose i can use, also i have schluter profile i used in another part of the shower. on the left side (without panel), I can get over onto the drywall by 3/4" - 1" + profile. If i went full-width piece + the bull nose, i'd be well over 4" on drywall. On the right side, the deco-sg profile will necessitate cutting the last column width so that I would have to either cut a slim piece to reach the edge transition (+ edge profile) or I could just do 1 width of the bull nose and be over it by ~2". Tricky part is that there will be ~16" above where the deco-sg stops where I will be using close to full tile width to line up to the other side of the deco-sg.
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Unread 05-28-2020, 11:36 AM   #79
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You can tile out onto the drywall as far as you like, Pancho, using your thinset mortar as the adhesive. Same with installing the Schluter profile. If the DW has been painted you might consider scuffing it a bit with some 100 grit sandpaper, just don't go past where the tile/trim/profile will stop.
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Unread 05-29-2020, 03:03 PM   #80
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valve protrusion waterproofing

thanks Dan, looks like I have a good strategy to marry up the tile on the edge so it looks halfway decent.

searched around the interwebs to find the best way to waterproof the valve protrusion. found this on another site, looks a bit messy but has the right type of waterproofing theory: https://floorelf.com/waterproofing-f...in-shower-tile thoughts on this?

also, the valve cutout for the tile is going to be tricky to waterproof in this way because i have very limited real estate on the side due to the tile orientation and the hardie was cut a little too wide. Should i try to fill that void area in with something (lower left quadrant)?
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Unread 05-29-2020, 04:50 PM   #81
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how to remove adhesive?

upon pulling the tiles up in the rest of the bathroom floor, i've encountered some areas that look like adhesive? pics attached.

1 is a cross section of a pulled up tile...looks like there was a layer of something on top of the light weight concrete, then thinset for the tile? (may have been original tile from ~1988 or conversion around ~1998)

1 is the floor itself and the other shows that layer of stuff better.

since i'm going to use some self leveling to raise level approx 1/4", do I need to get rid of the adhesive? I tried a grinder (way too much dust) and a recip saw with a scraping blade (took some chunks out, but less dust). any other ideas/recommendations?

using ardex k22f fiber reinforced over distressed concrete per manufacturer's instructions.
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Unread 05-29-2020, 06:13 PM   #82
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I'd try a 5 and 1 tool or putty knife to remove the adhesive. Use a hammer and putty knife if you need to.
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Unread 06-01-2020, 03:07 PM   #83
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thanks Davy, that was likely the best solution. floor is "clean" and now i need to make up for extra 1/4" slope difference in opposite direction due to uneven floors...ugh

Anyone have thoughts on best practices for waterproofing around valve intrusion (per previous post)?
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Unread 06-08-2020, 05:44 PM   #84
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valve waterproofing

anyone?

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Unread 06-10-2020, 06:10 AM   #85
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Not sure how you're gonna be able to seal that, Pancho.

MY first thought was a piece of Kerdi, though you don't have the "required" 2" of overlap on the left side. Still, even if water somehow got past that narrow overlap gravity will pull it down mostly, not sideways. But given the configuration of that valve there'd be no real way to seal it to the rest of it. Also, I think I see the water stop screws behind the rectangular-ish openings left and right, so don't know if you want to cover those.

Does the trim plate that covers the valve assembly have a gasket around its perimeter?
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Unread 06-10-2020, 01:20 PM   #86
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the valve has 2 pieces to it that "cover" protrusion (picture below):

1) is a plate that has a ring of foam like material that you silicone around (according to the manufacturer directions), on top of the tile.

2) there is also a decorative cover that gets attached along with the handle and diverter stem

I'm just concerned about small amount of water that may get between the tile and waterproofing. I would have used the kerdi valve cover, however it did not allow the base plate to sit flush.
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Unread 06-10-2020, 02:53 PM   #87
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Install it as Kohler instructs and don't give it another thought. IMO. If you really are concerned you could always run a bead of silicone around that inner cover (leaving the bottom open).
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