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Unread 02-22-2020, 04:33 PM   #1
BillBogieMSN
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Tilus Interruptus

I'm newb working a bathroom floor project. This project started several years ago but due to some serious health issues in the family and no small amount of procrastination the project stalled part way through installing the floor tile.

The subfloor is gypcrete so I had treated it with Ardex P51, then leveled it with Ardex gypsum floor leveler, layed down NobleSeal CIS. I tiled most of the floor with a crappy HomeDepot Merola or msi basket weave tile [. I did not grout the tile.

I'm not really please with the way that basket weave was working out and there are numerous loose and missing tiles.

The question is what do a I do now?
1. I know I could finish the basket weave and then do tile on top of tile but I'm afraid that's going to make the floor too thick.
2. Take off the basket weave and try to ground down to the noble seal without damaging it?
3. Try to pull of Noble seal as well as the tile?
4. Move to New Zealand?

Any ideas?

Thanks,

-Bill
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Unread 02-22-2020, 05:47 PM   #2
Kman
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Welcome to the forum, Bill.

If you've got loose tile, you have no choice but to remove them all.

After that, you can decide on your next move.
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Unread 05-05-2020, 03:11 PM   #3
BillBogieMSN
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Drywall out of whack

I'm doing a bathroom remodel in poorly built 1970s condo.

I'm going to tile the floor and walls to wainscoting height. In one of the corners the drywall dives out of plumb and flat by nearly half an inch. Whomever framed this building must have been drunk and stoned and working without levels, plumb bobs, and carpenters squares. So "out of whack", vague as it may be, really is the most accurate description.

I was going to build up this area of drywall by putting down a layer of 1/4" drywall and then completing the buildup with drywall mud to make it even with the rest of the wall.

Does that sound like a reasonable approach? I just want to get the wall flat enough to tile it properly.

I'd tear out the bad section and shim out the studs but I'm afraid of what I might find when I open the wall. I'm already dealing with gypcrete and areas of rot behind the old shower.

Thanks for any advice.

-Bill

PS - I should say that I'm using hot mud and will prime the surface before tiling over it. I'm not opposed to using thinset for patching if the experts think that's the better option. The area of the patch in not meant to be wet though it is in the corner where the toilet will sit.
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Last edited by BillBogieMSN; 05-05-2020 at 04:57 PM. Reason: additional info
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Unread 05-05-2020, 05:03 PM   #4
BillBogieMSN
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follow-up

In case anyone is interested, I had success removing the tile and then pulling up the Noble seal in strips. I'll probably use the grinding stone a bit to smooth out the surface but otherwise it looks like it will turn out OK.
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Unread 05-05-2020, 05:05 PM   #5
Davy
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I've seen tape and bed guys use hot mud to flatten walls and ceilings. One guy would always want to borrow my straightedges to float the walls. Then he would sand it and apply more if he needed to.
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Unread 05-05-2020, 08:15 PM   #6
Tiger Mountain Tile Inc
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The only thing that I would be concerned about is the drywall being too thin at it's most bowed-out point. It might be best to remove that section and plane down the stud.

But it could be that it's a pipe, or something causing the bowing. In that case, I don't recommend planing the pipe.
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Unread 05-06-2020, 06:37 AM   #7
jadziedzic
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Sometimes it's best to bit the bullet and address the underlying issue; I had two 2x6 exterior wall studs in my tub area that were bowed outward by nearly three-quarters of an inch. It was "fun" removing and replacing them from the inside (with some time on a ladder outside to lift the vinyl siding and screw the sheathing to the new studs), but it sure made things easier in the end.

(Yep, that's a finger fitting between the level and the stud. Sorry about the flipped picture, can't figure out how to make it align vertically.)
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Unread 05-06-2020, 09:02 AM   #8
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why not wet shim??
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Unread 05-06-2020, 09:20 AM   #9
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Bill, we've merged you two threads since it appears they concern the same project. We do like to keep all posts regarding the same project in one thread so all contributors have easy access to the previous questions/answers/history, the big picture if you will.

If you'd like your thread to be renamed just let us know.
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Unread 05-06-2020, 02:01 PM   #10
BillBogieMSN
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No worries Dan, you're correct it's the same project.

I should have mentioned that wall I'm trying to repair a wall that bows in not out. It dives in about 1/2" in the lower left hand corner of the wall. The deviation begins about 2' from the corner.

Great thanks to all that have replied to my post.
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