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Unread 08-01-2022, 12:31 PM   #16
Mike59
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Ok thank you for the advice
Mike
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Unread 08-01-2022, 12:33 PM   #17
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Hey I researched online it could not find a definite answer. If I use Kerdi on the durarock walls do you put the Kerdi on the smooth side or rough side?
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Unread 08-01-2022, 12:38 PM   #18
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Can work either way. I usually go smooth....
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Unread 08-01-2022, 12:45 PM   #19
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If you're using the Kerdi as part of the system, Mike, you can use plain gypsum drywall on your walls in lieu of the Durock if you want.
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Unread 08-01-2022, 03:25 PM   #20
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Yep, that's what I use but stay away from the "greenboard."
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Unread 08-06-2022, 07:22 AM   #21
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For what it's worth...

Laticrete's Hydroban shower system allows you to mix and match their sheet membrane with their liquid waterproofing and it's all part of the system.

This is if you're worried about keeping within the rules of a manufacturer's system.

Are you using a Kerdi drain on that shower?

Personally, I'm using foam curbs for all of my showers instead of wood or bricks.

Wedi has a curb that is reinforced on the top so shower door people can screw into it and not compromise the waterproofing. The curb in this photo isn't the reinforced version but it shows the steps of how it goes together.

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Unread 08-08-2022, 12:47 PM   #22
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Dry pack mortar question

Good afternoon,

My shower is app 5 feet long and 3-4 feet wide ( due to unusual L shape with 45 degree curb corner and off center drain). Anyhow, this is my first time doing this and I will be using drypack mortar over concrete subfloor and Kerdi liner. How long do I have to work with the mortar before it starts to dry. I don’t know if I can complete the whole job in one day so can I break off and continue at a later time...will the new batch of mortar bond ok with existing if I have to finish it on the next weekend?
Thanks,
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Unread 08-08-2022, 01:11 PM   #23
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Mike, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. A moderator can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

You can learn a good bit about making and placing deck mud, or dry-pack, or floor mortar by going to the Shower Construction thread in our Liberry. In there you'll find, near the top of the page, an article John Bridge wrote on the subject. You'll note near the end he mentions you have 30 - 45 minutes to place and shape such mortar before the curing process has gone too far.

For those of us who work alone, I've found this Bucket Mortar Mixer to be a very valuable tool. You can dry-mix all your material in buckets and stage them in the work area where you can add pre-measured water a bucket at a time and mix for two minutes or less. Just keep placing and keep mixing as you work your way out of the shower.

You'll still need to be fully prepared to work non-stop once you begin, but you should be able to complete that shower floor in one operation if you're well prepared. Having a helper would make it easier, but it can be done without one.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-10-2022, 05:09 AM   #24
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Thank you for the info and the tips on the mortar mix. My main concern is being this is my first time working with mortar, say if I start at the back of the shower and it takes me the full 45 minutes to screed and level out that area, can I then mix up more fresh mortar and continue on to the next area .will the new mix adhere to the previous hardened mortar? Should I do my perimeter all around first, then fill in each area...I will check out that site you recommended for more detailed info though. I wish there was a video of someone doing it first time vs all the ones of the pros showing how easy it is!
So I guess if I have any more questions regarding this project I do not start a new thread but just continue on this one...only open a new thread for a completely different project, say a different bathroom, etc. is that right?
Thanks, Mike
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Unread 08-25-2022, 05:57 PM   #25
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My current concrete shower floor is flat. I plan on making a sloped bed and covering with Kerdi. I am also wanting to make a bench out of concrete blocks. Should I build the bench on the flat surface, cover with durarock, then mud around the perimeter of the shower including up to the bench, then pitch the top durarock on the bench for drainage or mud the entire shower floor then build bench on top of that and fill in the minor gap at back wall with mud, thereby having the necessary pitch built in.
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Unread 08-25-2022, 06:04 PM   #26
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Yes, that is correct on your previous question, Mike. Sorry you were missed, there. When that happens, just make another post to bump your thread to the top of the queue for attention.

As for the current question, you want to build your bench before you place your pre-slope, and you want your drain as close to the center of the shower footprint in front of the bench. The rationale is to have a level perimeter all around the shower floor, which you would not have if your built your bench atop a previously sloped shower floor.

And I'm confused about the use of the Durock. There would be no Durock or other CBU used in conjunction with a "monument" style shower bench. What am I not understanding in your plan?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-25-2022, 07:34 PM   #27
Mike59
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Like most of us first time DIY guys we watch YouTube to gain insight. From what I have seen, stacking concrete blocks and then attaching durarock over them on top and on the front edge is what is supposed to be done. Then tile on top of that. Okay I agree with your suggestion on building the bench on the flat surface and then forming my slope afterwards..unfortunately my drain is probably not going to be centered just perfect as the shower was really designed really strange to begin with and I have already decided I’m not going to tackle relocating the drain. As a side note...it really aggravates me to see what some so called “professional” carpenters and plumbers do while constructing a home. For instance could not figure out how one ceiling board was so out of level until I looked close and saw the old pencil mark where he SHOULD have made the cut and instead cut 1/2” too high. Wow...
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