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Unread 05-14-2010, 01:22 PM   #1
ninak
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Replacing Shower Pan Liner

We are replacing the shower floor and using Chloraloy for the shower pan liner. We don't want to do the entire shower, so we have cut back about 12inches of the bottom tile on the walls for placement of the Chloraloy. We were planning to put backerboard over the liner, but there is heavy duty cement behind the shower wall tiles and it is very difficult to cut back. We are planning to use 12" tiles as bottom of the wall. The top 6 inches could be adhered to the exisiting cement, but what should I put between the shower liner and the bottom half of the 12" tiles? Can I put a layer of deck mud, like on the floor? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Unread 05-14-2010, 01:51 PM   #2
ninak
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Replacing Shower Pan Liner - Need Advice

We are replacing the shower floor and using Chloraloy for the shower pan liner. We don't want to do the entire shower, so we have cut back about 12inches of the bottom tile on the walls for placement of the Chloraloy. We were planning to put backerboard over the liner, but there is heavy duty cement behind the shower wall tiles and it is very difficult to cut back. We are planning to use 12" tiles as bottom of the wall. The top 6 inches could be adhered to the exisiting cement, but what should I put between the shower liner and the bottom half of the 12" tiles? Can I put a layer of deck mud, like on the floor? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Unread 05-14-2010, 02:16 PM   #3
Scottish Tile and Stone
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Your new liner needs to go behind the cement board.. Walls and curb. You should come up atleast 2' on the walls when trying to do this type of fix
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Unread 05-14-2010, 02:17 PM   #4
Scottish Tile and Stone
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Just re-read your post.. There is cement on your walls? Is there any wire lathe in there? That needs to come out down to the studs to do it properly
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Unread 05-14-2010, 03:25 PM   #5
ninak
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Thanks for replying. Yes, there is wire lathe in there. I know we should get it all out down to the studs, but that cement is extremely high tensile strength. It is taking forever to make a dent in it with a masonary cutoff blade. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you again for your help.
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Unread 05-14-2010, 03:36 PM   #6
Davestone
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In those situations i use a piece of wire lathe,careful not to put holes in the pan closer than a couple inches above the drain,then use a wetter deck mud, or stucco mix.
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Unread 05-14-2010, 03:40 PM   #7
John Bridge
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Hi Nina,

I know it's difficult; I've done it lots of times. It does need to go back to the studs, though. That's where the old shower pan is or was.
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Unread 05-14-2010, 06:17 PM   #8
ninak
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Thanks everyone for the response! John, the old lead shower pan was sandwiched between this cement and another layer of less dense cement. We got the top layer off, but the layer behind the shower pan is much stronger. I don't know if it helps to know, but the house was built about 50 years ago and apparently, I been told by contractors, was very well constructed.
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Unread 05-16-2010, 06:55 PM   #9
ninak
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Question Adhesive for CPE

The plumbing supply store where I purchased the CPE liner did not carry Noble 150. They gave me Wal-Rich Shower Pan Liner Cement. I asked if it was okay for CPE and they told me that was what all the plumbers use. I went on Wal-Rich's website and it said that it is for PVC. Does anyone know if I can use it with CPE?
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Unread 05-16-2010, 07:02 PM   #10
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On Noble's website they specify Noble 150. Is there a dal tile around you? MOst of them seem to carry it.
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Unread 05-16-2010, 08:00 PM   #11
tilelayer
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You can purchase the noblesealant 150 from nobles website. I usually use 150 for my cpe pan liners but my supply house also sells a glue in a can that says it can be used on cpe but I am more comfortable with the noble 150.

https://www.noblecompanyonlinestore....=sm&brdct=true
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Unread 05-16-2010, 08:02 PM   #12
jcsa
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Warranty

Nina,
If you deviate from the manufacturers recommendations you run the risk of the warranty not being honored. They have specific instructions on what to use and how to use them. These are tried and tested methods on which they will stand behind. If it means a little more effort to find their product it is worth waiting for. Everything that you will do will rest on the foundation in which you begin with. Its not worth doing twice. Good luck. John Cox
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Unread 05-16-2010, 09:00 PM   #13
Shaughnn
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hi Nina,
PVC and CPE are different chemically and the glue for one shouldn't be used for the other. I'm not chemist, but this is the rule I live by.
Best of luck,
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Unread 05-16-2010, 10:36 PM   #14
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Welcome, Nina.

It's helpful if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. Thanks.
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Unread 06-19-2010, 12:32 PM   #15
ninak
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Preslope Deck Mud - Is this okay?

The deck mud for my preslope has dried very sandy, can easily brush parts of it away with my fingers. We used Quikrete sand topping mix and sand for a approx 5 to 1 ratio of sand to cement (maybe slightly less). Moistened it slightly to a consistency that you could form a ball with mixture, but would crumble apart easily when crushed with thumb. I know it is supposed to be sandy on top, but I'm not sure how sandy it should be. I can easily move the top layer and make indentations by just brushing my finger along the top. Is this okay?
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