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Unread 05-16-2013, 04:50 PM   #1
melissadurante
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Kitchen Floor Tile Questions...please

Hey everyone...I used this site a few years back to get advice on tiling my first backsplash. Everyone here was SO helpful. Thank you.

Well...for a first time tile job it came out pretty decent...but after 5 years of fixating on my errors...and realizing I should have went with undercabinet lights...I ripped it all out and am redoing it.

With that..I also ripped out my engineered hardwood floor...engineered wood floors not a good idea for a kitchen...imo.

Anyways...this is where I need some help.

In ripping up the glue down wood floor I also ripped up the plywood sub-floor that I had installed over the original plywood sub-floor.

So, I need to put down some fresh plywood...but I need to cut in the new plywood around some of the plywood that didn't come up..i.e. where the cabinets sit on the newer subfloor.

I want to use kerdi..that orange waffle-weave looking stuff. It says to lay it on top of unmodified thin-set.

Now...can I fill in the gaps of my subfloor with the thin set? Also, I'm thinking the kerdi is going to go down in a couple of pieces...do I need some type of tape for the seams?


And finally...I am installing 4" by 24" porcelain tile. The guy at the tile store said to lay them out like wood flooring....but I was thinking of setting them where as the next row starts at the center of the row before it.

I know to use a 1/4" notched trowel and to back butter my tile. Also, I need to make sure my subfloor is level....I'm thinking I will build it up where it needs to be built up using thinset under the kerdi.

I'm also using unsanded grout and the tightest seam possible.....is there a spacer I can get or do I just butt the tiles up????

Also...what can I do for a door saddle? I was thinking of going with an oak door saddle...but I saw a picture on here where the actual tile was used as a saddle.

Is this right????
Thanks in advance

Melissa
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Unread 05-16-2013, 07:07 PM   #2
jadnashua
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First, the material you want for your floor is Ditra, not Kerdi (Kerdi is for waterproofing things like showers and doesn't have the decoupling properties of Ditra). Second, you need a modified to hold the Ditra DOWN, but an unmodified to set the tile. Unless you are really trying to waterproof the floor, you do not need to band the seams, but if you do (and to be useful, you'd have to go up the walls and deal with the doorways in some way), then you'd use Kerdi-band on the seams.

To keep from buying two different bags of material, you can buy the unmodified, and then an admix to make what you need modified. Makes life somewhat simpler. Two different thinsets depending on how it is mixed.

If the existing ply is messed up, it really depends on how badly, and how much. It might be better to remove it and install some new. There's a tool called a toe-kick saw that will allow you to cut close to an obstruction, but you must be careful with them, as they are nasty, but they can do things very hard or impossible to do.
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Unread 05-16-2013, 07:54 PM   #3
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Hi Melissa! What Jim said, but I'd also like to add that a 1/2 offset is not usually recommended for plank tiles. You'll need to check with the manufacturer to see what the recommended offset is-usually it's 1/3. Reason being that these tiles are prone to bowing during the manufacturing process. A 1/3 offset helps to hide the variation but a 1/2 offset will only magnify it.

Also I would not use a 1/4" notch trowel. Personally I'd just use a 1/2" notch from the get go but you may get away with a 1/4x3/8". DO NOT BUTT-JOINT TILE!! The industry minimum grout width is 1/16" but the tile manufacturer will also spec their recommended grout width.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 03:45 AM   #4
melissadurante
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Thanks alot guys!!!

I will be lurking around here for the next few weeks. I have to say, after reading some threads on the plank tile...I am very nervous...but we're only talking about 26 square feet of tile. How can anyone screw that up???? lol

Melissa
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Unread 05-17-2013, 09:34 AM   #5
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Melissa, plank tile is no different from any other tile. In fact they may be easier to install because you don't need to be line up the joints like square tiles if you use random offset. If you have a flat floor and good support, you are worrying needlessly.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 12:37 PM   #6
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Hi Melissa,

Plank tiles wouldn't be any different that other tiles if you were installing them with all the joints lined up. The cupping or warping of the planks wouldn't show so much. But when installing them broken joint the lower ends of the pieces meet up with the higher (cupped) mid-sections of the adjacent tiles and contribute to "lippage," the un-even, up and down difference from tile to tile. Breaking the joints at 1/3 is the best way to accommodate the differences.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 02:11 PM   #7
melissadurante
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Thanks so much for the advice.
On my backsplash I am doing glass mosaic...again. But this time around I know what NOT to do...lol.

As for my floor...I'm feeling more confident, again. This weekend I am working on installing my new sub floor and taping/sanding my backsplash wall
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Unread 05-17-2013, 02:42 PM   #8
melissadurante
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But one last question, please. I plan on screwing 3/8" plywood to my existing plywood sub-floor. Is 3/8" too thin? Then I plan on going over it with Ditra...
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Unread 05-17-2013, 02:56 PM   #9
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Melissa, we don't know what you have for a joist structure nor what you currently have for subflooring. Without that we can't really give you meaningful advice.

Well, except to say that the 3/8ths" plywood available today is not something I'd care to use for structural subflooring.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 05-18-2013, 06:48 AM   #10
melissadurante
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Well....it's not structural. There is an existing plywood subfloor...but it's chewed up looking and I wanted to laminate over it with new plywood just to get the floor smooth. We had originally laminated over the existing subfloor...installed cabinets over it...and then a glue down engineered hardwood floor.

In the process of taking it up....that original sub floor laminate is still in place in some spots...so I need to meet up to it...and any gaps I wanted to fill with the thinset I will use to place down my Ditra...and in the process of instaling my Ditra....get out any dips or valleys.


This is a very small galley kitchen....only 26 square feet
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Unread 05-18-2013, 08:39 AM   #11
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Melissa, again, we can't see what you've got. Photos would help, but we need at least a description of what material you are starting with on your subfloor.

But it's your house and your floor and your dinero and your tile and you can certainly install it in any manner you see fit. That's always the bottom line, but we like to see folks start with a suitable structure.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-21-2013, 04:11 AM   #12
melissadurante
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Small chip in porcelain tile

Hey guys/gals

Almost finished tiling my kitchen with porcelain "wood"plank tile. This site was very helpful and so far no lippage....nice grout lines...sturdy subfloor.....etc.

However, I did put a tiny chip on the edge of one tile getting a spacer out. I googled on how to repair it and came across a few things. I don't want to pull the tile out as I already pulled out 2 tiles that had lippage and what a nightmare getting up the thinset was.


Anyways, i read something about epoxy....ceramic filler. I was thinking a wax stick, also. My boyfriend said when I grout it will fill the chip in as the grout is a very similar color to the tile.

The tile has a maple look so it's not one uniform color.

Does anyone have any advice? Please???
Thanks in advance
Melissa
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Unread 08-21-2013, 12:24 PM   #13
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Hi Melissa, if it's on the edge of the grout line it will fill with grout. Or you can use enamel paint, fingernail polish, epoxy. Fill it up, let it dry and gently plane it flat with a razor blade.
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Unread 08-21-2013, 06:13 PM   #14
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^ yes you can do all or any of that stuff, but repairs on ceramic and porcelain tile don't work out very well.
It really depends on what kind of person you are. I know that when after certain clients of mine see the chip and know its there, it will always drive them crazy, no matter what repair gets done (unless its stone) the chip will always be an issue for them. Since you laid the tile and it's your kitchen, you'll be seeing more than anyone else, so if you can live with it, leave it be or try a repair. If it bothers you and you're that kind of person, remove it, just be careful not to chip any of the tiles around it!
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Unread 08-21-2013, 06:19 PM   #15
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Also, whenever I do porcelain or ceramic tile and it chips, I ALWAYS replace the chipped tile unless its under a cabinet or baseboard. Cheers
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