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Unread 02-11-2021, 10:46 PM   #151
Tool Guy - Kg
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6 days? Excellent! A rub brick will grind away at even old thinset mortar pretty quickly. You'll be pleasantly surprised at how fast it grinds your fresh mortar down.

And, may I suggest you getting a grout sponge to clean up the mortar from the face of the tiles while it's still wet? Those smears will take some doing to clean. Especially around the edges that you want clean so that grout can get in there.

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Unread 02-12-2021, 01:46 PM   #152
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Yeah, I didn't anticipate mortar getting everywhere, and have a multi-pack of sponges to have on hand when restarting tiling.

Just picked up the brick-on-a-stick, and thank you for the suggestion. CX recommended it before for some other work but I sort of side stepped it (tried a regular brick). With a minute of work a patch got sanded down that took a lot longer before. During lunch break today I'll see how much progress a half hour can do.
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Unread 02-14-2021, 02:40 PM   #153
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After about 5 hours of sanding and a sore back, I reset the back wall to just above the waterproofing, and used liquid membrane where I scuffed up the membrane.

Going forward I opted to only trust tiles set with the laser level with dramatically improved results.

In a similar vein to my previous post the laser level seems to be a great way to supplement skill with $$. I don't know if other tiles are easier, but it really helped with the scalloped-edge tiles. The low-end Huepar works perfectly well for my application, though I don't know what one would gain with a higher end model.

Also, I found tiles from the same box (Daltile) tended to have the same profile. Since I'm using vertical stacking, any high points in the tile tended to stack and tilt a column. Now I do a combination of rotating tiles and mixing from different batches.

Link to what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/Self-leveling...ZBD635PR86SWQ0
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Unread 02-20-2021, 12:44 AM   #154
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Getting ready to tile the bumpouts that are trimmed with rondec. I'm wondering about the timing of the install. It is 33 tiles floor to ceiling that I'm not confident I can do all in one go before the thinset sets. Currently plan to key in the thinset the entire height of the trim, set the trim, and place tiles. Say I get 2/3 of the way up. Do I scrape off all the thinset in the remaining height including as much as possible that has squeezed through the holes?
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Unread 02-20-2021, 12:45 AM   #155
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Also, I leave room for grout between the tile and aluminum, right?
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Unread 02-20-2021, 09:07 AM   #156
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Yeah, Mark, no reason can't install your tile to a certain height, stop there, and remove whatever mortar is left.

Check that trim. It might have a built in spacer that results in a small joint. Mine did. But you can still cut your tile to the length you need to achieve the grout joint size your want along the trim.
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Unread 02-22-2021, 03:05 PM   #157
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Another catch before I go ahead -- the tiles I used for the wall are glazed and not rated for floor applications. The curb is 5 in wide, and could easily be stepped on. For visual continuity I was going to use the wall tiles on the curb (including the top of the curb) but that could present a slip hazard. I googled quickly for materials and code, but didn't see anything immediately (other than height and waterproofing requirements). I could bring the floor tiles up the curb, though that presents some aesthetic challenges at edges and some other junctions.
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Unread 02-22-2021, 05:16 PM   #158
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It’ll be fine mark, we do it all the time for horizontal surfaces in a shower/wet area. I.e. benches, niches, curbs, pony walls, shelves.

Lotta wall tile has a bad chance when it’s up against foot traffic and as you pointed out can become slippery when wet.
On a curb, you’ll typically be stepping over it anyhow. Also with the proper 2% slope and if there’s a glass door, there shouldn’t be enough water accumulating to make a very wet surface anyhow. Granted, people can surprise ya and eat crap on non slippery surface at any time
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Unread 03-02-2021, 04:51 PM   #159
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Thanks for the info- ran out of tile before I could get to this.

I'm about to set the bonding flange. Laticrete instructions say to tile up to the top plate, then set the top plate. Is there a reason not to set the top plate then tile outward? Also, there is 1/8" gap between the tile and drain, with the drain proud. Is the idea just to be heavy with the thinset going up to the drain while keeping the pan slope? That's partially why I want to set the top plate first.

Posting flange/tile close up, and work in progress. I definitely wish I'd tiled a practice piece of cbu, but patience got the best of me (lack of)
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Unread 03-02-2021, 06:52 PM   #160
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Can't help you with the flange, Mark but can I ask what that floor tile is? The Hex tile I had originally picked for my project has been recently discontinued and I am still trying to track some down but don't know if I'll be able to.
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Unread 03-02-2021, 07:18 PM   #161
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I'm actually not sure, the local tile store ordered it because daltile was out of stock.
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Unread 03-02-2021, 07:22 PM   #162
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Unread 03-09-2021, 09:35 PM   #163
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Jeff Thorton just posted a video nixing 1/4" CBU on the floor. I have a pile of 1/4" CBU one painted wall away from being installed on the floor, should I pull back and buy 1/2"? It will be tile / thinset / 1/4" CBU / thinset / 5/8" plywood

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFwMNoj6a-w
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Unread 03-09-2021, 10:13 PM   #164
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Don't know who Jeff Thorton is or where he comes from, but I do know in this case he is dispensing advice that is wrong, at least according to the entire ceramic tile industry.

He appears to be attributing some structural properties to the CBU, which CBU does not have. The tile industry knows that, the CBU manufacturers know that. And all manufacturers of CBUs recommend their 1/4-inch product for floor installations unless you simply want to raise the height of your tile installation.

Having less subfloor deflection is always a good thing. To achieve it you add more structural subflooring, not more CBU. The only purpose of the CBU is to provide a more tile friendly substrate for your tiles. You can do the same with an appropriate sheet membrane measuring less than 1/16th of an inch thick.

In your case, I would not, under any circumstance, tile over a single layer of 5/8ths-inch plywood subflooring, but you can if you want. And according to the manufacturer of your CBU it will work with their thinnest product as well as with their thicker product. And looks like you've got OSB subflooring in the photos I could find on this thread, but that wouldn't change anything.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-09-2021, 11:56 PM   #165
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That checks out. How do you rectify the 5/8 problem -- can one add another 5/8 on top?

Thanks,
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