Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 11-26-2020, 02:14 AM   #16
Tool Guy - Kg
Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
 
Tool Guy - Kg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 22,571
1. The lugs are usually sized for the most popular grout joint width (likely to be close to 1/16”). If you want a wider 1/8” joint, you only need to see if the lugs are located in a place where they physically get in the way of you using your spacers.

2. The lugs would work for an offset pattern. But your 1/8” grout joint width is probably more than the lugs are sized for.

3. Not unless they impede you using whatever spacers you want. I’m much more concerned with the finish of tiles like this at their perimeter. Some tiles have a nice, smooth surface, all the way to the factory edge. Yet, others have little rough irregularities at the edges that makes them look cheap to my eye. These irregularities aren’t as noticeable before grouting as they are after. So, I’d look them over carefully before installing a wall full of them.

4. No technical issues. But beware that contracting grout colors amplify any waviness or grout width irregularities.
__________________
Tonto Goldstein... but my friends call me Bubba

Help an awesome summer camp!
Tool Guy - Kg is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-26-2020, 09:19 AM   #17
Tiger Mountain Tile Inc
Registered Muser
 
Tiger Mountain Tile Inc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Issaquah, Washington
Posts: 7,018
Assuming the Home Depot tile is their Restore line, you might look and see if they have any 4x4 bullnose that are a true 4 inches, like the 4x12's. That gives you some sort of an option for trimming the ends but I don't know how you would offset them.

Also, I would think about spacing the tiles 1/16th instead of 1/8th because the 1/16th joint will end up looking like 1/8th inch because you'll be spacing between the lugs.
Tiger Mountain Tile Inc is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-12-2020, 06:00 PM   #18
MTy
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 44
1. Tub question: I am considering a cast iron tub. I am looking at the Toto FBY 1550, the only 60 by 32 cast iron I can find.

My concern is weight this being second story. I know after having to fix a leak from below that my joist are 2x10s 16" on center with half the tubs length having a apprx. 8 foot span and the other half apprx 12.5 foot span. The joist are in good shape and likely southern pine. Using a joist span calculator and the manf. recommended minimum weight per sq./ft. (80ft/sq) I don't think I would have to do any structural work. Anyone have any reason to think differently?

2. Does anyone have any experience with that tub or toto tubs in general?
What about the american standard augusta, the acrylic tub I am considering?
__________________
Eric
MTy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-12-2020, 06:24 PM   #19
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 92,634
There is to be a shower within this tub surround?
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-13-2020, 12:44 PM   #20
MTy
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 44
No, just the tub. The shower with be 36x36 and right next to the tub with the sides glassed in and a tiled back wall. Part of the glass will have to rest on the tub deck so that part of the deck will be waterproofed. Unless I need to water proof the whole deck? I plan on using a quartz slab for the deck surface.
__________________
Eric
MTy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-13-2020, 02:26 PM   #21
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 92,634
I've not used an Americast tub for some years, but I'd always found them to be fairly robust fixtures in past. Easier to handle than cast iron, for sure.

You do understand that you need the end of your tub deck that'll be in the shower needs to be sloped to drain, yes? Doing that with a one-piece tub deck is gonna be difficult.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-13-2020, 02:39 PM   #22
MTy
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 44
What about the weight of the cast iron based on the joist situation mentioned above? As the structural guru on here do you see any issues? By my calculation it'd be about 800lbs with tub and water weight.

Yes, I do. My plan, after seeing it mentioned somewhere on here, was to has the shower side piece separate from the tub side piece and slope that. However, thinking on it, there could be issues with that given the narrowness of the piece since the glass would run along part of the narrow side of the tub deck.

I'll have to talk to my stone guys. My back up is to do the solid slab and run the glass from the floor butting against the tub surround and just tile the tub surround without waterproofing.
__________________
Eric
MTy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-13-2020, 03:33 PM   #23
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 92,634
Sorry, I'm not one of the structural gurus hereabouts, Eric, just a guy who's built a good bit of residential structure. We've got a couple guys here who have letters after their name and can do the numbers for you if you can give them sufficient information to work with.

For most residential construction, if done properly, you can pretty comfortably park your car anywhere on the second floor without any fear of structural collapse. Getting it up there? Different set of problems.

What we deal with here on this forum most of the time is the suitability of the floor structure to deal with a ceramic tile installation. If you tiled that bathroom floor before you brought that cast iron tub into the room, chances are your tile installation would suffer some sort of failure. If you set the tub first, then tile the floor, chances are you'll be OK. If you fill the tub with water and stand a couple people in it, you may well be pushing your luck with the floor tile, but I'd be confident the tub and people would remain on the second floor and not become one with the first floor.

Our Deflectometer in the dark blue bar near the top of the page is our usual go-to device to get an initial go/no-go reading on the joist structure to determine if it meets the deflection standards for a ceramic tile installation. While not shown, its calculations are based upon a 50psf loading as opposed to the customary residential requirement of 40psf live load with a 10psf dead load. The structure, though, is usually capable of supporting much, much more load than that.

Another consideration is the footprint of the tub. Above I was referring to the joist structure; the actual footprint of the tub is a different consideration. The drawings on the tub in your link appear to show the tub sitting on four small legs. I think that could be more of a problem than the overall weight. I'd want those legs sitting directly over a joist if at all possible or on some very substantial subflooring reinforcement if not.

See my warranty information below.

While talking with your stone supplier, you might also ask if they can just taper the end of your stone deck on the shower side of where your glass will mount. The requirement is still 1/4" per foot slope, but for what is likely to be a rather narrow section, that wouldn't require much taper and might be well within their capabilities.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-28-2020, 09:44 PM   #24
MTy
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 44
Decided to go with acrylic tub to save myself some trouble, or so I hope. Should be starting demo within a couple of weeks. Couple of other projects to finish first.

I am looking to do a tile in drain from infinity drain. They make a version that I believe works with Kerdi. I have a cousin who can make custom handmade ceramic tiles. Does anyone know if a larger than usual expansion gab is needed for handmade ceramic tile?

My cousin says the tiles shrink in the kiln so if she makes a 4x4 tile for the drain which according to specs is 4 1/8 inches I would figure that would be about right with an expansion gap. Anyone see any issues with my conclusion?
__________________
Eric
MTy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-28-2020, 11:40 PM   #25
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 92,634
I'd wanna have that drain in hand before deciding upon the final size of my tile, Eric. As I view their drawing the width of the edge around the tile-in portion is 5/16ths of an inch and the OD is 5 inches. By my calculator that leaves an ID of 4 3/8ths of an inch rather than 4 1/8th of an inch as shown in one of the other drawings. I'm thinking they can't both be correct.

And I'd wanna know what your tile maker ends up with as a final size for her tile that you plan to use in there.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-29-2020, 07:34 PM   #26
MTy
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 44
Sounds like a plan. I also think once I get drain in hand, I'll see if my cousin can do a test piece to see how much it will shrink and what size it needs to be to fit in the drain.

1. I take it I want about 1/8 inch on all sides for expansion gap? Or is a tile in drain not considered a change in plain?

2. I will be using Kerdi board along with kerdi band for the walls and kerdi on mud pan. (see my first post about overthinking everything, ye have been warned) The vids I have watched show most folks use putty knives for smoothing out the kerdi. Is that the tool of choice?

3. What about cheap plastic putty knives versus metal ones? The metal ones have sharper corners but maybe the plastic ones are too flexible? Does it matter?
__________________
Eric
MTy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-29-2020, 08:11 PM   #27
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 92,634
1. I'd wanna see at least a 1/16th" grout joint around the tile in the drain.

2. I use drywall knives for sheet membrane installations. Mostly 6" and 11" but also a 4" for folded corners and such. frequently two at a time in corners.

3. Never tried'em. Steel ones work fine for me. You can knock just a tiny bit off the corners if it makes you more comfortable.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-09-2021, 01:22 PM   #28
MTy
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 44
1. Started demo today. Ran into a potential issue, but I think it turns out not to be an issue. Any reason to think this exposed area in the first picture might be load bearing?

It was a framed in linen closet with a door. I saw the header and double top plate but then realized the joist run parallel and the header is not well nailed in and not supported by the two by fours under it.





2. I originally I thought the tile was set with just thick globs of thinset but it looks like they put them on top of a cement board of some sort. It has a plastic type fine mesh holding it together. What's the best way to get that stuff up?

__________________
Eric
MTy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-10-2021, 08:06 AM   #29
ss3964spd
Moderator
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 4,077
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
I think that closet opening probably isn't load bearing, Eric, but hard to tell from here. Is there any support directly under the sub floor where the left and right king and jack studs, and bottom plates for those sit?

All the interior walls on the upper level of my house have double top plates. None are load bearing.

The stuff on the floor is almost certainly cement board and, if it was installed right, will be pretty miserable to remove. You can keep at it with hand tools and cursing, or go rent an impact tool with a wide blade that should make short work of it. Keep the blade angle low to prevent gouging the subfloor too much.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-10-2021, 08:37 PM   #30
MTy
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 44
Thanks Dan, I am not 100% sure. They could be sitting on one of the walls of the kitchen or half bath below or possible just over the bulkhead below.

I spent time crawling around in the insulation in the attic above. The joist sit just to the side of the wall with a 2x4 next to the joist. That two by four is sitting on the wall's top plate.

There are two other walls just like this one but twice as long. They are not over anything. Plus on all of them the header like piece is not even touching the jack studs and there are no more than one or two nails securing the headers to the king studs so it is not built like it is structural.

Thankfully, the cement board was not secured properly, just a few screws. I was able to get it all up in sheets in about 30 mins. This bathroom was not the original to the house. The tub/shower had cement board too but no waterproofing of any type.
__________________
Eric
MTy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Home Addition with Master Suite & Shower ironmanbythirty Tile Forum/Advice Board 3 10-23-2017 10:02 AM
MattamyRed's En-Suite Shower MattamyRed Tile Forum/Advice Board 60 03-12-2014 05:31 PM
Megan's Master Suite Remodel (Layout help) meganjo Tile Forum/Advice Board 8 05-15-2012 09:33 AM
SUPERBOWL SUITE for sale opiethetileman The Mud Box 85 02-09-2004 04:51 AM
Lundgren Master Suite Buried Tile Forum/Advice Board 66 10-09-2002 05:53 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:10 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC