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Old 09-05-2018, 07:48 AM   #121
ss3964spd
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Big push this past weekend was to get all the wall board up.

As I think I already mentioned I decided to use USG's shower system components. In order to minimize wall seams I hunted down (with the help if their local service Rep) and killed 4 sheets of 1/2"X4'X8' of their foam backer board. It seems to have a plasticy water proof material on both sides and installs using their CBU screws - no washers needed. It is very easy to work with.

Ended up going with drywall over the wall hung toilet framing. Given the number of holes and cut outs needed, and that I didn't want any seams, I was super happy that I obsessed over getting the framing square, level, and plumb. Geberit instructions called for ZERO clearance around the rectangular mud ring (I guess their flush plates are just that close). Made all my measurements from the top and the right side of the framing, transferred them to the sheet, and went at it. Like a glove.

Next up: taping and mudding hell. LOL
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Old 09-05-2018, 08:06 AM   #122
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Pics...
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Old 09-05-2018, 08:58 AM   #123
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Looks good. I prefer to leave a little 1/4 in gap at the bottom of the drywall because of expansion/contraction of the material to which it is attached. But that's probably of minor significance.
Dan, I like your OCD placement of drywall screws.

If you end up using the premixed drywall compound (as did I), choose the plastic bucket over the carton. It's so much easier to remove material from it and seal it. A bit more expensive but worth it and less waste in the end.
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Old 09-05-2018, 09:33 AM   #124
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Agree with the gap. I was so excited that it fit the first time I simply didn't want to remove it. LOL. I'll go back and carve 1/4" off the bottom with my drywall knife. And yeah, I was pretty OCD with the screw placement.

I'm actually going to try my hand with fast setting compound. It comes in 20, 45, and 90 minute mixes. Just add water, mix, and flail away. I'll likely end up using bucketed premixed for the final coat.
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Old 09-05-2018, 12:15 PM   #125
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If you are going with the hot mud, I would suggest using the 45. The 20 gets too hard to work with very quickly. And thumbs up for the bucketed premix(blue) for the final coat. Still might be easier to spread if you thin it a little.
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Old 09-05-2018, 03:36 PM   #126
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Or chose the 90 minute mud if you're a slow mudder like me.
Are you using the hot mud to hasten the installation or to have stronger mud bonds in the corners? Or both? If the former, that's a viable method if you want to do more than just one coat in a day. If the latter, there is some merit to that even though in my estimation when drywall cracks, it does so in different places (like around doors or windows) and usually not in the corners. It's more important to use good corner tape. Also, if you're building up a lot of mud, the hot mud can help as it doesn't shrink as much as the compound. But then, I hope you don't have to do much build-up. That's a pain to work with. The less, the better.

I don't envy you. Drywall work SUCKS.
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Old 09-06-2018, 06:31 AM   #127
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Thanks Raymond, and yeah - I do know about mixing the premix a little thinner, which also help reduce the tiny air bubbles. Also agree with the the blue bucket compound, the green is just too soft.

Wolfgang, the hot mud is primarily to reduce the time it takes to do all the mudding, side benefit is the strength. Not too concerned about cracks above the door or window as using the long sheets eliminated any joints/seams there. I have only one 3 sided corner that might need a little build up, and disappointingly it's in the shower. But it's not too bad, a bit more than a 1/16th I think. The shower walls are impressively flat. The entire perimeter gets multipiece crown - and I'm still on the fence regarding taking the tile all the way to the crown.
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Old 09-26-2018, 10:56 AM   #128
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"Better Bench" - any install do's/don'ts?

Though progress is being made it's only in the form of drywall taping/mudding/sanding/priming so I'll spare the pics of that tedious bit. However, the flush mount 1"X2" night light did turn out pretty cool.

Am to the point I need to start spending money again. Yay. Some of that will go to a couple of corner benches for the shower, and the Better Bench products seem to be the right way to do it in my case.

Anyone one here install one of these things? The only thing I feel uneasy about is the thin layer of deck mud on the vertical face. Just doesn't see like deck mud is solid enough to hold together while also supporting the 4X30 piece of granite (or other solid surface material).

Input is greatly appreciated!
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Old 09-26-2018, 01:45 PM   #129
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Dan, I make something like fat mud out of a bit of the deck mud I mix for the Better Bench and use that on the front face. Just add some lime or a handful of thinset mortar to a small portion of your deck mud and add a bit more water.

If I need to make the face taller to accommodate a particular tile size or pattern, I screw some metal lath to the face of the Better Bench to facilitate the build-up of mud above the top of the bench. Have done this a number of times.

I find those corner benches pretty useful.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 09-28-2018, 07:20 AM   #130
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Thanks for that CX, definitely gives me more confidence that the stone won't fall off the face of the bench.
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Old 11-01-2018, 10:37 AM   #131
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Shower floor and main floor build ups

Am not far from starting to prep for floor tile for my curbless shower and main bath floor. That prep includes setting the foam shower pan and the Ditra heat mat (only on main floor). The tile on both floors is 3/8"

I'd really appreciate a sanity check.

Shower Floor Build up from subfloor, cutting trowel thickness in half for actual mortar thickness:
Hardie wants 1/4X1/4 Sq notch trowel
USG wants 1/4X3/8 sq or U notched trowel for the pan to Hardie
USG wants 1/8X1/8 sq or U for the membrane to pan

It builds up like this:
1/8" mortar
1/4" Hardieboard
1/8" mortar
1" USG foam pan
1/16" mortar
USG membrane

Sooo, the shower floor comes out to about 1 9/16" thick, not including the membrane thickness.

Main Floor Build up from subfloor, cutting trowel thickness in half for actual mortar thickness:

It builds up like this:
3/4" plywood
1/8" mortar
1/4" Hardie Board
1/8" mortar
1/4" Ditra Heat Mat

So the main floor comes out to 1 1/2" thick, a difference of 1/16th between the two.

Where/how can I make up the difference? The shower floor tiles are 2X2's on a mesh backing. I've read that a smaller trowel notch size should be used for them to avoid mortar squeeze out (I'll probably use a 1/2X1/2 trowel for the 12X24 main floor tiles). Will using a smaller notch size for the shower floor tiles do the trick? If so, what size, 1/4X1/4?

Many thanks,
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Old 11-01-2018, 11:27 AM   #132
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The mortar thickness will only be half the nominal notch depth if you comb out the mortar with the trowel at a 90 degree angle. For a 45 degree angle, further multiply by 0.70 (sqrt(2) / 2).

I haven't otherwise checked your math.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 11-01-2018, 12:30 PM   #133
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Agreed, Wayne. Assuming I maintain a 45* ish angle for all mortar layers the resulting thickness reduction should be consistent.

Still need to find out where I can make up that 1/16th or so. If the mosaics for the shower floor can/should be installed with a 1/4X1/4 trowel that would get me close.
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Old 11-01-2018, 01:29 PM   #134
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But your posted accounting has different mortar thicknesses on the two assemblies, so the 0.7 multiplier will make a difference.

3/4" plywood is not 3/4" thick, it may be 23/32" or sometimes even 11/16".

As to making up a 1/16" difference, I would think you could do that by adding a little more or less thinset under the tiles on one side of the assembly, just over a one or two foot wide transition zone.

Also, I haven't been following your thread, so perhaps you already answered this, but what is the purpose of the 1/4" hardibacker in both assemblies?

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 11-02-2018, 08:41 AM   #135
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Good point about the plywood Wayne, I'd forgotten that it's actually a bit less than 3/4". That makes the shower floor just that much higher, compounding the issue. The ply I installed is 23/32.

Technically, I need the Hardie under the shower pan only. I recessed the entire subfloor to be between the joists (enabling the curbless design). Recessing it allowed me to flatten and level it as well, and there are a few joist bays were the recessed ply is 1/8" ish above the tops of the joists, which the Hardie will easily bridge. But, if I raise the height of the pan I so too must I raise the height of the main floor.

So now the height difference is even a bit greater than my rough estimate. I don't know that I'm skilled enough to make up over a 1/16th of an inch difference with mortar.

I think the way forward is to swap out the 1/4" Ditra Heat mat with 5/16" Ditra Heat Duo mat.
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