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Unread 12-09-2008, 12:19 PM   #1
mmoore
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An easier way!

This being my first post, I would first like to say many thanks to all who have helped with my first granite install. I have been cruising for several weeks and The level of knowledge and expertise on this site is second to none! Great site John!

To my Question(s): I have installed approx. 30s/f of 12x12 Uba Tuba granite on a 45 angle with a 6" running border on 1/2 +3/4 ply +warmly yours +3/8 SLC in Custom's marble and granite mortar. I would like to use Custom's newer Prism grout for my 1/8" joints. First, does this light weight grout have enough strength/sand content to fill deeper cavities? Some of my joint depths are deeper due to using a 3/8" notch for the thinset in some uneven places. I would really like to use this grout since my color of choice is charcoal and uniformity would be nice

Secondly, would some of the pros offer up some advice on how you would layout this design? I am planning to repeat this layout with the same tile in an adjacent laundry room. It really took me a long time(newbie) to dry fit, number, remove and lay. Am I going about this all wrong?

I am currently trying to upload a pic of everyones handiwork!

Mark
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Last edited by mmoore; 12-10-2008 at 08:46 AM.
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Unread 12-09-2008, 08:04 PM   #2
muskymike
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Hi Mark, welcome! Nice job. I'm not sure about the prism grout cuz I haven't used it but I'm sure it would be fine.
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Unread 12-09-2008, 08:46 PM   #3
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Welcome, Mark.

The Prism grout will fill your joints just fine.

You might be interested in a review John Bridge did last year when the Prism was newly re-released. Find it here.

If you go to the Advanced Search feature and type in prism and ask for titles only you'll get lots of reading on the subject. Disregard anything earlier than mid 2007. That was a different Prism prior to that time.

I don't unnerstan the layout question. Looks like you done already figgered how to lay it out.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-09-2008, 10:30 PM   #4
DaveGordon
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Welcome Mark...that's a purty floor! Nice job!

Are you asking if there is a "system" of some kind that might speed up the layout process? If there is, I sure don't know of anything other than what you mentioned, but the pros around here are awesome. Stay tuned and they'll point you in the right direction!

Regards.

Dave
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Unread 12-10-2008, 08:40 AM   #5
mmoore
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Thanks guys, much appreciated! This job is giving me a new respect for "Pros" out there who do this stuff the right way!
I did have a local tile store start both this bath and a laundry room to help me out(I'm in the middle of a whole home remodel), but I came home to a real mess. Bad lippage, butted tiles and 1/4" joints all on the same floor, 1/2" wonderboard with no thinset under(found this after I pulled it up), no taped joints, dark thinset which made my tile all black and a more irritated wife Not until I read over this site did I really understand just how many problems I had to deal with. When I say this site has saved my bacon I really mean it. My dad was a mason so I can handle the flagstone and block work but this stuff is so much different to lay flat-and you can't beat on it as much

-By the way awesome fish Mike! Idon't get to freshwater fish as much as I would like anymore. I love shore lunch walleye!!

- Thanks CX, I just found the review on the Prism and that's the route I'm going. Much more comfortable now.
The layout wasn't really the problem I just wasn't sure how to keep my cut tiles in order after I removed them to trowel the mortar on. I just pulled them all up and numbered each on the back and on the floor. I was sure I would break a few if I kneeled on them. No room to work in there either. I just wondered how you guys would do it.

I'll post more pics of the floor when I get the grout in then I get to paint and mitre base

Mark
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Unread 12-10-2008, 08:56 AM   #6
gueuzeman
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My 2 cents on the floor layout- I would have shrunk the border and had the diagonal field be full tiles and half tiles, to me a cleaner look unless there are other layout issues that supersede it.

Also- as to marking tiles, I use tape on the front and write on that. Since I backbutter my tiles, it would disappear under the mortar. Also, don't write on the back of white marble, it could bleed thru to the front!

Otherwise, great job!

gueuze
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Unread 12-10-2008, 09:22 AM   #7
mmoore
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Gueuze,

-Good point on the light colored tile didn't think of that. I did back butter the tiles as well(habit from all the flagstone work) I just set one tile at a time with the corresponding number on the floor.
I also thought that the border would be larger than I wanted but cutting them in half wasted less and my base and shoe will cover an inch of that anyway. I wondered if the whole design might be somewhat less obvious when I grouted it with a darker color anyway.
About the diagonals, do you mean you would put a 6 incher in between the full tiles for the inside pattern??
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Unread 12-10-2008, 10:16 AM   #8
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No less waste with the 6" border. There was the waste from all the corners you cut off of the center area. The laws of geometry say that is the same either way.

So if you only cut half the center tiles corner to corner, instead of chopping a corner off of every piece, there's a time saving, not a material saving. Ripping the border as straight cuts is easier. IMHO

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Unread 12-10-2008, 10:25 AM   #9
mmoore
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I follow you now. I was set on a half tile border and therefore "fit" the center field as I went. To do it again I would do it that way.

Mark
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Unread 12-10-2008, 10:59 AM   #10
gueuzeman
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You were right to be set about a maximum border of 6". Anything wider, and you start adding up expensive waste fast. For example, at $12 a foot, 5" x 12" "scraps" are $5 bills going into the trash. Yikes!

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Unread 12-10-2008, 11:04 AM   #11
mmoore
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Sould I remove this?

POSSIBLE SCREWUP??

I noticed last night that I used the marble and granite thinset to fill in some of the gap from the border tiles to the sheetrock. You can see it is filled in against the wall in the photo. Should I have left this for expansion? Do I have to remove or am I O.K. to grout tonight???
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Unread 12-10-2008, 11:10 AM   #12
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Can't see by the photo, but it needs to be removed.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-10-2008, 11:23 AM   #13
mmoore
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Great!!! I have thermostat and floor heat wires to contend with I guess I'll have to carefully dremel what I can out and avoid these areas. It looks like approx. 3/8" needs to come out.......
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Unread 12-10-2008, 11:24 AM   #14
ceramictec
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Quote:
Should I have left this for expansion
yes you need a gap between the tile and the wall for expansion.


I would have also did it like gueuzeman and cut a tile in diagonal half.
measure and chalk out the diagonal inside so the inside is all full tile and set the border to fit as I backed out of the room
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Unread 12-10-2008, 12:13 PM   #15
mmoore
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O.K. now I just feel bad about my layout

Well I tried the dremell but the gap is too tight for the bit to be at any usefull angle. Any suggestions for alternative methods or am I relegated to the knuckle busting grout saw???
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