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Unread 09-29-2006, 08:16 AM   #1
mporter52
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Mike P's Master Bath Project

Hi All,

I am so glad I found this site!! I am in the process of remodeling my master bath. Well I had a leak in the shower that pretty much ate a bunch of my studs. I have fixed the studs and the subfloor. Repair turned into remodel. Hey I figure Its apart I might as well redo the whole area. Wife wants a claw foot tub anyway.

And am in the planning stage of my shower. And have some questions.

First let me say, yes I did use the search button, but can not seem to find answers to all of my questions.

So here goes.

1. Is there any need for greenboard behind the Concrete Backer Board (CBB)? I am planning on screwing the CBB straight to the studs.

2. My shower pan will be 3' X 5' how long should I let this cure before I can work on it?

3. How do you seal the screw heads in the CBB? Do I just use Thinset?

4. Can I use CBB to build the pan step?

5. Can/Should I lay CBB on the pan floor? Will this strengthen the sub floor? Will it hurt anything?

6. For the depth of the Mud shower pan, should I make the total depth equal to the 5' length based on the 1/4" per foot. On both the 5' length and the 3' width? In other words should the depth be uniform based on the longest distance? ( After reading this, I think I know the answer is yes, but wanted to verify)

7. Do you need to notch the studs? if So do you need to notch the boards holding the liner up, or just at the top where it is folded?

Many thanks for any/all responses!!!

Mike
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Unread 09-30-2006, 05:29 PM   #2
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Unread 09-30-2006, 06:29 PM   #3
Rd Tile
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1. NO, you mean CBU, cement backerboard, use 1/2" on walls with a vapor barrier behind it if not waterproofing the front.

2. 24hrs. between each layer of mud.

3. Just go over them with thinset as you tile.

4. NO, unless you are using the kerdi system by schluter, otherwise use mason mix cement for the curb, you place wire lath over the liner, then mud it 1/2" thick, secure the lath on the outside of the curb only, the mud will hold it in place on the inside.

5. NO!, just the mud., you are building a mud pan with tile, Correct?

6. Mark the furthest area on the wall 1/4" per ft. from the drain, then draw a level line around the walls, that's your height all the way around.

7. I notch all the studs so the CBU comes down over the liner without bowing, you can also fir out the studs above it, but this sometimes interferes with drywall in the rest of the room matching up if not doing the entire room new.

Anything else?
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Unread 10-02-2006, 10:21 AM   #4
mporter52
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Thanks!! I feel much better about all this. Apreciate the clarifications.

Got a couple more questions.

For Vapor barrier I use 15# roofing paper, correct? Is that also called tar paper?

What is the purpose of the tar paper under the pre-slope and do I use the same 15#?

Everything I have read says to firmly attach the drain, am I to assume that just means to glue the pvc drain to the pvc pipe?

Is it ok to use the dremel to cut some grooves in the drain for better weep holes?

Thanks again!

Mike
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Unread 10-03-2006, 10:07 PM   #5
mporter52
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hi all,

Layed the preslope today. Man I have to say, mixing the deck mud is harder than it looks. The surface seems to be a little rough, can/should I smooth it out with thinset?

Thanks!!

Mike
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Unread 10-05-2006, 02:12 PM   #6
mporter52
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Anyone have an answer on if I should smooth out the preslope with thinset?

Thanks

Mike
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Unread 10-05-2006, 04:25 PM   #7
John Bridge
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Hi Mike,

How rough? If the pan will drain, it's fine. It won't hurt to skim the surface with thin set. Just make sure you don't leave any additional ridges. In other words, don't make it worse.
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Unread 10-05-2006, 06:16 PM   #8
mporter52
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Thanks John! I just noticed today that I got an autographed copy of your book!!! Thanks


Here are some pictures :
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Unread 10-06-2006, 09:12 AM   #9
mporter52
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Well ordered my Ditra today. Cost quite a bit more than the CBU was going to cost. But the thought of carrying all that CBU upstairs to the bathroom, and then having to cut it all, well lets just say I didnt like that thought.

Ok couple more questions on the Order of doing my shower pan. I think I have confused myself. Here is the order I am planning.

1. Drain (Done)
2. Preslope. (Done)
3. Plumbing. Wife decided we had to have a shower with the 4 body spray things. More work for me. Doubt we have the water pressure to pull it off, but Oh well.
4. Notch Studs, and install liner. BTW I cant find pre-made corners locally anywhere. Test for leaks!!!
5. Install CBU over all shower walls. Float etc..
6. Mortar the step.
7. Lay the last bed of deck mud.
8. Tile the shower walls.
9. Tile the shower ceiling.
9.5 Grout walls and ceiling.
10. Tile the Shower floor.
11. Tile the step.
11.5 Grout shower floor/step
12. Rough in drain and faucet for tub.
13. Tile walls arround tub./ grout
14. Install Ditra
15. Tile floor. grout.

Does this sound like a logical process? Thanks for responses in advance!!!

Mike
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Unread 03-18-2007, 08:25 PM   #10
mporter52
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Update with some Pics.

Waiting on fundage to finish the tub area.

Mike
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Unread 03-18-2007, 08:35 PM   #11
Tool Guy - Kg
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Thanks for the updated pics, Mike. Feels great to have progress, eh?
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Unread 04-03-2007, 09:12 PM   #12
RonT
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4 shower things?

Nice looking Shower Mike looks well made indeed.
I would like to know information about your 4 shower jets and how you came up with the componets?
and how they are plumbed?
Also your shower curb looks great ,
Did you find the pre made corners?
Is one corner different made than the other?
Since the one dead ends into a flat wall?
I am working on the same type shower and was thing about a shower panel jets? and the curb is the same as yours and I dont know how to load pictures and could get anyone to understand this type or curb corner?
Or are they different?
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Unread 04-05-2007, 02:58 PM   #13
mporter52
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Thanks!

Will try and answer your questions.

Those are Moen Body sprays. Along with the Moen shower valve designed to have the body sprays.

I followed the instructions on plumbing them. It is basically a square with the 4 sprays near each corner. And the "inlet" is on one side. This is supposedly to equalize the pressure on all 4 sprays. And it seems to work well.

As for the curb. I am quite proud of that. It turned out quite nice. I followed John's book to the Tee on that.

I could not find the pre-made liner corners so I made my own. Using the left over liner, and the liner glue. I would have rather used the pre-made ones. But I am pretty confident it wont leak. Plus that side of the shower doesnt get much water. Eventually the left hand side will have a glass brick wall. that is why I made it like that.

Hope that helps!


Mike
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Unread 04-05-2007, 03:04 PM   #14
John Bridge
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Lookin' good, Mike. Excellent workmanship.
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Unread 04-05-2007, 03:42 PM   #15
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Very nice, Mike! I am working on a shower very similar to yours (a few inches wider and longer), except I have a solid wall at your open end and am looking at putting the shower head on the opposite end. I'm hoping to get away with no door- have you had much overspray?
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