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Unread 09-08-2019, 07:22 PM   #1
Collinjo
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Leaky toilet repair

Any suggestions on how to replace the plywood here? I’m guessing that I should cut the patch in two pieces and insert it on either side of the flange. I’ll brace it on the joists and maybe add some blocks on both seams. Is this the correct way to repair this?


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Unread 09-08-2019, 07:58 PM   #2
PC7060
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Hi Collin,

Sounds like you have the right plan. Cut back to clean solid subfloor, install blocking along all unsupported edges and around toilet then you’ll be ready to install the patch.

I see the plank tile over what looks to be CBU. Be sure to bed the new CBU in thinset and screw down to subfloor before you install the new tile.

On the positive side, this will give you the chance to finally paint behind the terlet tank!
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Unread 09-09-2019, 10:12 AM   #3
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Thank you sir!


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Unread 09-09-2019, 01:22 PM   #4
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With blocking all around, it isn't as important, but any patch tends to work best if you can attach the thing to three joists...i.e., having one in the middle is good so it isn't hanging off the edges of just two.

WIth adding tile, while things are open, you might consider replacing the toilet flange so it will be able to be mounted on top of the finished flooring where it is designed to be. If you go that route, use a flange with a SS ring, not an all-plastic one or one with a painted ring. If the pipe is 4", you can run the riser up high, get an inside mount flange, after the tile is on, cut the riser flush, then glue a new flange inside. Don't do this if the pipe is 3", though...IMHO, while they're available, cutting the ID down to about 2.5" isn't a great idea.
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Unread 09-09-2019, 06:51 PM   #5
Collinjo
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Thanks for the advice. It’s a 3” pipe so I was able to use a new flange as suggested. It’s pretty sturdy though. Here are some pics.


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Unread 09-09-2019, 06:56 PM   #6
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Doh! No steel ring
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Unread 09-09-2019, 06:59 PM   #7
Collinjo
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Wouldn’t that have required replacing the whole flange? I was able to rebuild the floor around the old flange. Maybe I didn’t understand what you were saying.


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Unread 09-09-2019, 07:06 PM   #8
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Yes, cutting off the entire closet flange and putting on a new one.
You know your flange looks 90 degrees rotated. How do you attach the bolts??
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Unread 09-09-2019, 08:17 PM   #9
jadnashua
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That flange (and some other types) has the T_slots, and notches. The notches are usually a bit stronger, and that's how this one was installed to utilize them. Still, the plastic flange is not as strong as a SS ringed one. And, after you install the tile and underlayment, that flange will be lower than it was designed for. Now, millions are installed that way, but a thick wax ring usually works but can be blown out if there's a clog and you aggressively plunge the toilet.

Many places require that you use caulk around the front 3/4'rs or so of the toilet. This does help hold the toilet in place but also prevents the inevitable dribbles and crud from misses or mopping from getting underneath and being impossible to clean up well without removing the toilet. Locktite makes a caulk designed for this that won't bond it like silicon, but is more than sufficient for the task.
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