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Unread 03-09-2008, 12:52 PM   #1
sals
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Tile joints/new pan ?

This question may be premature since I don't know much about how this tile shower was made, but at my daughter's house the tile joints on the inside top edge of the curb have opened by about 1/4" or so. It also looks like some cracks in the tile joints around the edge of the floor have developed. I have no idea how this happens but it seems like there must be some movement in the base construction ( house is about five years old).

She called a tile company and they said they have to replace the pan and if she elects also the shower walls. There is no evidence of leakage below the shower. The sheet rock out side of the shower by the door looks like it has been damp but not soaked.

Is it certain that the pan be replaced? Is it possible that the tile can be removed and reset and regrouted? If I plugged the drain and filled with a couple of inches of water and if there was no loss could I conclude the pan doesn't need replacement?
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Unread 03-09-2008, 01:01 PM   #2
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Well, the pan liner should extend on top and over the curb. Some guys don't get the curb covered good enough and the wood gets wet and swells. That sounds like the problem. The liner itself may hold water and the moisture be getting in from the top of the curb.

Check out the pan liner section in the "shower construction info" thread. It's in the liberry. There are pitches there to help you see how it should be done.
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Unread 03-09-2008, 01:02 PM   #3
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Sounds like your curb is letting water get in via the top joint of the curb; the water could be creating mould on the inside and if the inside is plain gypsum board, that too is expanding and mouldy. Your guy will have to take it all apart and that may include the pan, depends on what he finds.

Common shower leakage problem. Eventually those tiles will fall off.
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Unread 03-09-2008, 04:23 PM   #4
ceramictec
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I'm going with water is getting in and making the wood swell causing the cracking.
need to fix this quickly.
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Unread 03-09-2008, 05:10 PM   #5
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Probably find they just nailed the liner to the top of the curb...the drywall showing signs of being damp is not good, either. Could all be related to the same problem(s). the insides of the walls could be really ugly.
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Unread 03-09-2008, 07:52 PM   #6
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All the above. Plus, I doubt it has any pan corners.
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Unread 03-13-2008, 02:57 PM   #7
sals
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Thanks for the thoughts. Now I'll have to make a trip and see if I can find out more about the construction and failure. But I think you're telling me there is little chance of getting this "fixed" by just working on the curb and not tearing into the base. Right ?
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Unread 03-13-2008, 08:37 PM   #8
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Yeah, usually. The pan is all in one piece and goes on the floor and up and over the curb. To replace the pan liner you will need to take out the floor, curb and up the walls 10-12 inches.

Most of the time we will go ahead and replace the whole shower. Trying to match the tile is usually a problem.
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Unread 07-11-2008, 04:02 PM   #9
sals
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Shower repair

I'm trying to get organized to help my daughter with her shower problem. The floor tile and curb tile joints are opened, in a five year old house. Two contractors have told her the pan needs to be replaced.

I'd like to help reduce her cost by tearing out the tile and repairing any wood work. Then I'd contract the installation of a pan and tile replacement.

Question: The first tile course is 9 inches above the floor tile, the second course is 25 inches. Is it reasonable to plan to remove only the first or second rows of tile along with the base and pan? I'd expect to get it in good shape down to open studs and the wood base. At this point I'm not worried about matching the tile color. I really want to know if all the tile on all the walls needs to be torn out in order to replace the pan.
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Unread 07-11-2008, 04:15 PM   #10
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Welcome, sals.

I've combined your first thread on this same subject here. Please bookmark this one and use it for all your project questions so folks who want to help can see the history and what's been previously asked and answered.

While it is possible to do a pan replacement without replacing the shower walls, it's not an easy task to get a good waterproof joint between new and old. And in your case, if the pan installation was that bad, I'd suspect your walls aren't installed correctly either.

Granted, five years isn't a very old shower, but I'd still do a complete tear-out and replacement if it were mine.

Consider also that nine inches (just the first row of tile) isn't gonna be enough to do just a proper pan replacement. So, if you've gotta go to two feet up the wall to make the repair, why not go another five feet and have a thirty or forty-year shower when you're done?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-12-2008, 04:01 PM   #11
sals
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Thanks for the guidance. I guess the next step is tear out. Any thing special I should know. I'm thinking everything down to studs is what has to come out and if the wood "flooring " is punky it goes also.
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Unread 07-12-2008, 04:40 PM   #12
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Yep, that's what I'd do.

Figure out which type of installation you want to go back with. You can go the traditional method or go back with Kerdi. Kerdi does have their own drain which you would need to change out. The drain you have now is probably plastic and could be in good shape if you want to go back with a pan liner and with CBU on the walls.
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