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Unread 03-31-2022, 07:00 PM   #1
jgleason
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Joe's Curbless Shower

Finally getting to the end of our home renovations. We are planning a curbless shower in the master bathroom with a linear drain. Not planning on an entry door to the shower, just a floor to ceiling glass panel, set in Schluter's Deco-SG channel.

(the guest bathroom and laundry area are in progress, plumber finishing rough-in tomorrow)

Questions:

1. Any problems with the slope running from the long outside edge down to the opposite wall where the linear drain is located?

2. How long should the drain be? As shown, it is 5 feet long. Wet end is to the right, away from the walk-in opening.
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Unread 03-31-2022, 07:33 PM   #2
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1. I'd say no, but how do you intend to get the water from the west end to the drain?

2. 7 foot 4 inches. See #1 above.

Gonna need a compound slope as I see it, Joe, and I doubt Schluter makes any such.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-31-2022, 07:42 PM   #3
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Every part of your 3'-8" X 7'-4" floor needs to slope to a drain.

For that design, I would slope the entire shower floor to the long wall just because it make entering the shower a little smoother than entering perpendicular to a slope. But, you need a drain the whole length of the wall.

Are you using a pre-fab slope or deck mud? I suppose you could get more creative with mud. But either way, based on that size shower, I would consider the 3'-4" "entry" portion part of the shower floor. If that entry was 8 feet or so from the showerhead, maybe not.
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Unread 03-31-2022, 07:57 PM   #4
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Thanks cx! I originally thought I would locate the linear drain on the east end but worried about slope from west to east and how to account for that with my glass panel. We haven't picked out the floor tile yet but it will most likely be a large format so compound slopes would be a problem.

Looks like Schluter drains can be installed 'end-to-end' to make a longer drain. Other than the jaw-dropping price of the drains and grates this couldwork.
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Unread 03-31-2022, 08:02 PM   #5
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Smile

Thanks John! Yea, a single slope to the long side (south on the drawing) made the most sense to me. Only one showerhead but that entry is a bit close so really needs to slope as well.

Looks like the drains can be installed end to end so I could get the full 7'-4" of drain by getting two drain kits. Anyone done that before?

Edit - probably going to go with deck mud. I'll need to recess the floor to get the slope I'll need.

Last edited by jgleason; 03-31-2022 at 08:05 PM. Reason: added info
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Unread 03-31-2022, 08:13 PM   #6
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For clarity - joists are shown in red. There is a support beam that runs perpendicular to the joists just about in the middle of the shower.

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Unread 03-31-2022, 08:16 PM   #7
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Yes, you will need a minimum 1" of slope (0.92") over 44" so that's your recess. How will you achieve that recess?
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Unread 03-31-2022, 09:15 PM   #8
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Flooring detail. 1" drop over 44" and assuming thinnest deck mud is 1.5" then it should be 2.5"at the glass panel to begin the slope. With the other flooring in place, the recessed amount is just over 1.6"

My joists are 2x10 so adding a 2x8 should work.

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Unread 04-29-2022, 06:28 PM   #9
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Finally finished up our guest bathroom and nearly done with the guest bedroom. Next week I'll be able to start on our master bedroom/bathroom project. It'll be fun. Pic is of the guest bathroom, just finished:

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Unread 04-30-2022, 02:59 AM   #10
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Turned out great, Joe.
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Unread 04-30-2022, 07:42 AM   #11
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Well done, Joe!
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Unread 05-01-2022, 07:40 AM   #12
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Hi Joe

I think if you want to go with a standard-sized drain that you would have to break your shower as shown in the drawing below. You could also center the drain from left to right and do two breaks like that if symmetry is important.

The one thing that I wonder about is the lack of a door on the shower. I think that shower is going to be cold and it doesn't look like the heat is running in there either.

You might think about shortening up the opening and having a 'plan B' of installing a door after-the-fact. You'd want to work that out with your shower glass installer as they will have input on door size, number of hinges, thickness of glass, etc.

I think a 36 inch door requires 3 hinges and might have to be 3/8 inch thick? Also, you want to make sure a potential door would swing clear of the vanity.

Just something to think about.
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Unread 05-01-2022, 08:43 AM   #13
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From experience, James is right - it will be cold. Well, colder. Will it be a show stopper? For me it wasn't and still isn't. But juuuuust in case I did exactly as James suggested - installed framing to support a door if needed.

You also want to consider where the shower valve will be placed so it can be reached without getting hit with cold water.
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Unread 05-02-2022, 07:57 AM   #14
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I have a 72in x 38in doorless shower with 4ft wide piece of glass that goes all the way to the ceiling so I have a 2 foot opening. The floor in the bathroom is heated and we keep the bathroom door closed during the winter. I love not having a door. I also used the Schluter channels in the floor and wall so there are no clips except for one on the outside edge on the ceiling. I like the clean look of no clips or hinges. In case you have not priced it, the glass is going to be expensive.
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Unread 05-04-2022, 06:58 AM   #15
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Thanks for the great ideas everyone. I ended up getting two linear drains from Schluter that can be set end to end to get the full length needed. I like the idea of no glass door. Good thoughts though on possibly being cold.

I decided on getting a Moen U shower controller which allows for the water to be remotely turned on and preheated to our desired temperature. We'll use the one that can control two outlets - an overhead rain shower head, and a handheld head.

We are now using our guest bedroom and I will be starting the demo today in our bedroom and bathroom space.

Moen U:
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