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Unread 05-31-2009, 07:57 AM   #16
orangetones
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Brian,

Thanks for the heads up. I wonder if anyone else will comment on this issue of setting the height so I can eliminate the transition strips.

As well, should I tile first, or lay hardwood first?
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Unread 05-31-2009, 08:00 AM   #17
Brian in San Diego
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I would tile then you don't have to worry about thinset, grout and walking over the new hardwood. Sawdust cleans up from tile a lot easier than thinset from wood.
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Unread 05-31-2009, 06:37 PM   #18
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Large format tiles tend not to be flat, they are as you say cupped or curved so it is not recommended to install them in a running bond with more than 1/3 overlap between tiles, that is not to say that all large tiles are not flat,but it can be an issue.
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Unread 05-31-2009, 06:45 PM   #19
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Layout Possibilities

Sal,

Thanks for the info. I guess I will just have to see... I have seen many 12x24 in running bond though. Surely people do this all the time?

Here are some layouts to scale of the areas I intend to tile. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Anything jump out at you guys as being off?
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Unread 05-31-2009, 06:53 PM   #20
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Ditra and matching floor levels

I think for the extra money, and the ease of installation compared to screwing in concrete board, I am going to go with Ditra. This will be a new one for me.

It just seems to go in easier. It also is a heck of a lot lighter than concrete board!

Looks like I will now have 3/8 ply, 1/8 ditra, 1/8 thinset, 3/8 tile. Should be 1 inch around about...

That means that I will probably have to put 1/4" ply under the 3/4" hardwood and we should be pretty good!
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Unread 05-31-2009, 08:20 PM   #21
custombuilt
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15 percent waste....if you mess up a cut on one of that then you lose 2 square feet.

Also looks like you might want to bump your layout out to a piece maybe 8 inches wide at the wood transition to get rid of those slivers on the walls..
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Unread 06-01-2009, 06:58 AM   #22
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Like custombuilt said about the slivers you might want to adjust your layout. As far as the running bond pattern goes, i am not saying not to do it, I have done it many times. You just need to know what you might run into while you are setting the tiles and that if you get some lippage between the tiles it is normal and not much can be done about it. Put a straight edge on the face of some of the tiles before you start so as to see how far out of flat the tiles might be. You are the only person that can decide what is acceptable and what is not. it is possible that you will have no issue at all, I was just trying to give you a heads up.
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Unread 06-07-2009, 05:40 PM   #23
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Trowel

I have been reading up on setting the ditra. I believe a 1/8x1/8 trowel will do for the ditra, or a 5/16 v notch it seems.

What size notch would you reccomend for 12x24 tile?
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Unread 06-07-2009, 10:26 PM   #24
Brian in San Diego
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I think a 1/4x3/8x1/4 should do.
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Unread 06-08-2009, 05:46 AM   #25
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In other readings it seems that for over 12x12 many people are suggesting 1/2x1/2. I know it has something to do with the trueness of the floor as well. I will have to see what the floor is like with my 6 foot level when I rip up the vinyl and 1/4 ply.

Any other thoughts on the trowel size from anyone else?
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Unread 06-08-2009, 06:25 AM   #26
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You can use a 1/4x3/8 trowel, but on a tile that size make sure you back butter every tile.
I always try to have a piece of the hardwood around so I can match my tile to the height. I try to install the wood last.
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Unread 06-08-2009, 08:11 AM   #27
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Have both trowel sizes on hand. Try the 1/4x3/8 first and back butter the tiles, then try the 1/2x1/2 without back buttering, lift the tiles see what your coverage is then go with what you prefer. You may need to back butter in both instances.
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Unread 07-24-2009, 12:59 PM   #28
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Flattening out a big dip in my kitchen floor?

I have an OSB sub-floor that only requires an additional 3/8 layer of ply over it before installing my ditra and 12x24 tile. It has some serious dips in it. What are my options for flattening this out?

SLC? Ditra build up like shims? Planning around the major fluctuation?

Help... please...
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Unread 07-24-2009, 05:39 PM   #29
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Are the dips between joists, or across an area with many of them? If you used a thicker ply, when you screw it to the first layer, it might flatten it out a little.

You want to flatten the floor before adding the Ditra. It depends on the amount of dip you have. Take a long straight-edge - the longer the better. If you can find a straight, long piece of wood, that will work. Measure the depth of the areas that need to be filled. If they are shallow, you might be able to screed some thinset in there. Let it set up, then install your Ditra.

The depth required, and the amount of area that needs to be filled will help decide the best method.

Over a wooden subfloor, slc needs to be installed with lath, and deep enough to survive. Depending on the brand and type, it might need as much as 1/2" over the highest point. Over a concrete slab, you can feather it to zero, but it doesn't work that well like that over wood - it needs some thickness to not crack. That isn't a problem over a slab.
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Unread 08-02-2009, 10:10 PM   #30
orangetones
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I think I have about 1/4" in the middle of the dip. I should be able to use some thinset and screed it out with a long straight edge.
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