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Unread 12-08-2021, 12:52 PM   #1
wsume99
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Shower curb options

I'm installing a shower in my basement. I am using a laticrete linear drain installed at the front wall. I will be using a liquid hydroban liner for waterproofing. I was planning on using a foam curb but after looking at shower doors last night I started to rethink the foam curb. If I use a foam curb then I cannot mount any doors into the curb. I'm not planning on using a door that would require hardware mounted into the curb but now I'm wondering if I should construct the curb differently so I could mount door hardware into it if I change my mind.

So I have two questions-
1) Am I just being paranoid and not being able to mount a door into the curb is not a very big deal.

2) Since I'm not using a PVC liner what other options would I have for the curb that would allow me to attach hardware to it?
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Unread 12-08-2021, 01:40 PM   #2
smifwal
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You don't want your shower door guy to mount to the curb that would poke a hole in your waterproofing and void your tile warranty (at least it does mine) there are many other ways to mount glass without drilling into the curb.

I personally like the foam curves they're cheap I can cut them down to about any size I want, I can cut them down and put a pitch on them and they install fast and the shower glass door guy can't drill into it,works out perfect.
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Unread 12-08-2021, 07:46 PM   #3
Tool Guy - Kg
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I agree. It doesn’t matter if it’s foam or not. What is ultra, ultra, uber, fantastically, super-important is to find a shower door company that will not puncture the waterproofing. There are relatively few shower door companies that actually understand this. Most want to puncture your liner by drilling deep mounting holes and tell you in no uncertain terms that, “They’ve been doing it this way for a while bunch of years and never had a problem”. Yeah, right. So, be prepared to smile and wave goodbye to most of them.

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Unread 12-10-2021, 07:04 AM   #4
MesaTileworks
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Can anyone describe or link to a door-mounting method that does not involve drilling into the curb and wall? Now I am curious…
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Unread 12-10-2021, 08:13 AM   #5
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Something is going to get drilled into, Matt. The curb, the wall, sometimes both. Depends on the door and the hardware.

My basement bath, for instance, has only a 36" door, no other glass panels, so the hinges for the door are fastened to only the wall; through the tile and backer board and into the studs. A bead/smear of clear silicone on the back of the hinge mounting plates, and a bit under the screw heads, keeps water out.

In a wet area, holes in a vertical surface are less susceptible to water seeping in than are holes in a flat horizontal surface.
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Unread 12-20-2021, 12:16 PM   #6
Mathman
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I use a sliding glass door on my shower. Rails mounted to walls using screws and used only silicone to connect the guides and splash guard to curb. Threw away the mounting screws for the curb parts.
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Unread 12-20-2021, 01:35 PM   #7
Tiger Mountain Tile Inc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsume99
If I use a foam curb then I cannot mount any doors into the curb
The new Wedi Anchor track curb is exactly what you are looking for.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BSimpson
you can’t mount a glass door to a foam curb
On my projects, we do it all of the time. However, I usually use 2-inch Wedi foam. I have no idea if there is any difference between Laticrete's foam or not? Probably best to check with your glass installer ahead of time though.
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Unread 12-20-2021, 03:13 PM   #8
MesaTileworks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tool Guy - Kg View Post
What is ultra, ultra, uber, fantastically, super-important is to find a shower door company that will not puncture the waterproofing.


This is what I was curious about. How does one not puncture the waterproofing if the doors need anchors that go deeper than the tile? (which I would assume most do).

Even in this thread there also seem to be differences of opinion about whether a foam curb is acceptable for a shower that is getting glass doors that need to be anchored?

I would be curious to know what Schluter would say about their curbs.
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Unread 12-20-2021, 05:04 PM   #9
smifwal
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If you are getting a custom door then the shower door company will be able to accommodate not screwing in to the curb, now will they be reluctant to do something thing that is harder or not their common practice probably will they tell that they do it this way all the time yep, but it is your shower and you don't want to have a penetration in the curb. That is the bottom line if one company can't accommodate that then move on to the next one until you find someone willing not drill in to your curb.
Quote:
Can anyone describe or link to a door-mounting method that does not involve drilling into the curb and wall? Now I am curious…
sorry, I don't have any pictures of any of the mounting up close, I am normally done and paid before the shower door guys install
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Unread 12-20-2021, 05:09 PM   #10
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I've installed many 2" (on edge) Kerdi Board curbs, which I cut myself. Most with quartz toppers, but quite a few tiled tops. Never sunk a fastener into any of them, nor did I have concerns about glass weight bearing on them.

Kerdi Board has significant compression strength and once tiled, I just can't see any disadvantage when compared to wood or masonry. I like the idea of increasing foot space in any given shower and reducing useless horizontal space on top of curb. Seems to me wide curbs are a vestige of yesterday when showers were framed like closets.
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Unread 12-21-2021, 05:25 PM   #11
makethatkerdistick
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While not the most common option, you can install your own glass enclosure. I didn’t find a local installer whom I trusted with not breaching the waterproof layer on the curb. I did some research and measured and subsequently ordered my own custom glass. Admittedly, it took time to research and pick the hardware and prepare the measurements. It was worth it. I used the stubbed screw method, by which a cut-off screw is attached to the glass bracket and placed in the hole on the shower curb and then fastened with a high strength epoxy. The hole is only drilled to a depth slightly below the tile thickness. Th8s provides sufficient strength to hold even large glass panels in place. Remember that uplift is not a concern due to the weight of the glass. It just has to contain possible lateral movement.

The last thing you want is a fool who happily drills through your curb, piercing the membrane while reassuring you that they “never had a problem.”

By the way, if this is in the basement on a slab, you should use pavers and build your curb that way. You can lay them with thinset and build a pitch on top with fat mud. Also, if you have a wet saw, you can just cut them down to the desired thickness. They are cheap and rock solid. Personally, I would ditch that foam curb. Other than the convenience factor, foam curbs have little going for them. And they are pricey.
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