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Old 06-08-2019, 08:34 PM   #46
jadnashua
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If you want more waterproofing protection, use Kerdiband on the seams of the Ditra and some KerdiFix to seal the Ditra to the toilet flange. You can also put a band from the floor to the wall.
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Old 06-10-2019, 08:34 AM   #47
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Should i worry about the opening around the toilet flange? There's probably a 1/4"'-3/4" on each side where there is no wood and its just free standing.

I could install something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-4.../dp/B000K13TL6

and CX - we did brace two of the three sections where the plywood meets- similiar to how we blocked and braced underneath the door entry ( see red in photo). My only concern is that there is no sistering or support on that third column to the left, because the actual joist is about 2 feet under the wall and there is a pipe that would block any sort of support beam from going there. Although it feels pretty darn sturdy when i walk over the area. I can't lift that plywood up because its now been screwed and glued down.
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Old 06-10-2019, 09:01 AM   #48
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Can you post a picture of it? Is this a single layer of plywood?
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Old 06-10-2019, 09:14 AM   #49
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sure!

It's very sturdy from the feel of it so i'm not too concerned, rather i wouldnt be concerned if i didnt know about this site

My hesitancy with puttign another 3/4" of plywood down will be the difference in transition from laminate to bathroom - will probably feel weird.
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:26 PM   #50
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A patch really wants to span either two joist bays (attaching to three joists), or have blocking installed, otherwise, it's just hanging on the fasteners of that 1/2-width of the joist edge. Also, any joints that are not tongue and groove should have blocking underneath.
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:41 PM   #51
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So is the hole that's cut out 7" or larger? When you put the flange on, will it have support all the way around? You'll want to put a few screws through the flange into the plywood.

Jim, from the picture in post #47, it looks like he's got blocking in the right places.
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Old 06-11-2019, 11:42 AM   #52
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Thanks Kevin for your questions. No the flange will not be supported by plywood all the way around once itís installed, but I think there will be tile that goes up to it. The other option is I use that support flange I showed a couple of posts earlier. What do you think?
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Old 06-11-2019, 06:10 PM   #53
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FWIW, a toilet flange is designed to be installed on TOP of the FINISHED floor, and then anchored through it into the subflooring. Now, there are probably millions of toilet flanges not installed that way, but that is how they are designed. During construction, they tend to be installed before the finished floors partly so that the plumber doesn't have to come back, and they can get more of the inspection out of the way. Also, choose one that has a SS ring, not an all plastic one (tends to crack), or one with painted steel which WILL rust.
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:09 PM   #54
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This is the toilet flange Iím installing

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Oa...6512/100062268

So Iím not sure I fully understood your message. Is the opening in the plywood around the flange alright?
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Old 06-12-2019, 05:20 AM   #55
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This is a much better option for flange:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Oa...5922/305248440

The flange ring MUST be fully supported by tbe plywood subfloor. If the hole is too large you will need to replace subfloor or block from underneath to ensure ring in fully supported
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Old 06-12-2019, 02:54 PM   #56
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Well that portion of the subfloor is screwed and glued down. How hard would that be to remove? How else could i block it?

Could i not use something similar to this?https://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-4.../dp/B000K13TL6
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Old 06-12-2019, 08:47 PM   #57
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The long-term tension of the toilet's mounting bolts along with the occasional bump can often end up bending then cracking a solid plastic flange. This is why you're better off with one that has a metal (and SS won't rust!) ring to hold the toilet bolts. It also must be well anchored to the floor which is why you need some structure where the screws would go when you anchor the flange to the floor.

On a 3" riser, using that flange that seals on the inside means the opening is marginal as well. Ideally, you'd have a minimum of 3" through the flange into the drain pipe. An inside mount/seal flange can work okay on a 4" pipe, but not a 3" one.

You may be able to add some ply or solid wood on the underside while screwing it to the existing subflooring. You would then probably need longer screws to anchor it since that part would be recess the thickness of the subfloor on the back side of it. You want something thick and strong enough to actually hold the screws that will both hold it in place (use some construction adhesive, too, to bond the stuff on the bottom) and then anchor the flange ring itself.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:04 PM   #58
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Okay so i will try to remove the subfloor i just laid. How hard will that be? I just glued it and screwed it down a week ago.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:16 PM   #59
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I wouldn't remove the subfloor. Ideally you could work on this from below, but we'll proceed as if you can't. If you can, this part will be a lot easier.

Can you wedge a 2x4 about a foot long into that hole? Is there enough play in the drain to do so? If you can, you may be able to put one on either side of the drain, then screw them to the underside of the subfloor with deck screws at least 2" long.

Then cut a circle out of some scrap plywood to fill the hole, with a hole in the middle for the drain. When you attach the toilet flange, make sure you have screws going through the scrap piece of plywood and into the 2x's below.

I hope that explanation makes sense, and if you can't do it with 2x's maybe something else that's substantial enough to screw the flange into. You might even have to make the hole a bit bigger, and if you do, cut a square out. Screw a 2x4 on all four sides underneath to support the patch. Don't make the square any bigger than necessary, though.

Someone else may have better idea, but this one might keep you from tearing up your subfloor and having to replace it with a new piece. If it's glued well, typically the layers rip apart during demolition, leaving some of it stuck to the joists.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:49 PM   #60
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So I canít access the floor from underneath, Iím tempted to rip that portion up - will it destroy any of the 2x4s Iíve sistered to the joists underneath?
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