Rust treatment of metal support post

[makethatkerdistick]

I have got this metal post that helps prop up my front porch. On the base there is a lot of flaking rust that has eaten into the groove between the post’s base and the post itself. The whole thing seems to be one piece, welded or otherwise attached to each other. The rusted area at the base seems small, but it is deep. Integrity of the post is still good, but I have to do something now to stop deterioration. The rest of the pole has rust spots all over, but nothing as dramatic.

I am planning on putting a temporary wood stud in that location, so I can take the metal post out and properly clean it, treat the rust and then prime and paint it.

At my local big box stores, I find the typical Rustoleum spray cans (primers, top coats, etc.), and my local Walmart has a Rustoleum rust dissolver.

I have never finished metal before. What is the best way to rust proof this post, so it will live many more years doing its job?

Please give me some hints and tips if you have experience with corrosion issues. I want to do it right, so I don’t find myself with peeling paint a year later.

[cx]

I've used a product called Ospho for many years to treat heavily rusted, and not so heavily rusted, metals before painting, especially on exterior applications.

I've found it to be effective.

[makethatkerdistick]

I will try Ospho. Found it on Amazon. Seems like a good rust converter.
How do you prepare the workpiece for the treatment? Just remove the loose rust and flaking paint with a wire brush? Or go all out and use a sanding disk for paint stripping?

What metal primer and paint have you found to be good? Is that Rustoleum stuff in a can decent? I have used it before on metal items inside the house, so cannot judge its adhesion and performance outdoors.

[cx]

Depends upon the circumstance, Wolfgang. Sometimes nothing more than scraping and a hand-held wire brush, sometimes the power wire brush. Rarely sanding.

Frequently use the Rust-Oleum Rusty Metal Primer available from Homer. Psychological advantage of looking like the old Red Lead primer from my military days that worked so well. But our friends from California got that mostly banned because they couldn't keep their children from eating it.

[makethatkerdistick]

I will follow your advice and post a follow-up once I complete the project. Ospho and Rustoleum rusty metal primer plus paint it is.

The paint on my post is actually confirmed lead based. Certainly, I want to be careful as not to breathe any dust when cleaning it. Lead is very detrimental to a kid’s cognitive abilities, but even adults can be affected. Maybe California exaggerates this a bit, but I can see why. When I grew up in the 80s, they still had leaded fuel for cars. When Notre Dame de Paris went up in flames, the lead roof was melted, and lead particles were found everywhere nearby, including facilities with children. Not good!

[smifwal]

We put this on the salt trucks
https://a.co/d/c2priCH

[ss3964spd]

In the classic car world a company called Eastwood has some products, and there's also POR 15.

[makethatkerdistick]

Hi Shawn and Dan. Thanks for your feedback.

Seems like I am going to stick to the CX method for now. It’s a stinkin’ old post in front of my old house and no fancy vintage car. If I decide to put wheels on my post and drive it around town, I will consider the POR 15 stuff. Looks like an amazing coating, though, Dan.

Incidentally, one of my neighbors thought they could just remove their post for beautification purposes. Guess what? Their porch roof section now looks worse than the leaning tower of Pisa.

[makethatkerdistick]

Turns out my support post goes all the way down to the foundation. Having been encased in this brick wall has led to the post’s bottom four inches rotting out.
Most of the post that was encased is rusty on the surface but structurally sound.

Not sure what to do! Cut it off flush with the surface and mount on top? Cut it off to the structurally sound part, treat for rust and re-embed?

How does one encase these metal posts anyway? Is contact with masonry and mortar acceptable? Or should I try to further protect the metal?

I will be thankful for any tips.

[smifwal]

I have posts set on top of a brick wall holding up the breeze way. They have been this way for 60 years. Don't you mind that mess of 2x4s and what not. I plan on escasing these in a 1x6 pine painted white at some point.

[cx]

I believe I'd be inclined to remove that steel post, Wolfgang, rebuild the brick wall, and put a different post on top of the brick.

Possible you could repair the existing post by chipping a bunch of concrete, welding some heavy angle iron gussets on the corners, but would be a lot of work, require demoing a lot more of your wall, and unless you're really in love with the look of the existing post, not really worth the effort. I recently did the same repair on a structural steel post in a large greenhouse, but it was completely open to access and nobody cared how pretty it was not when finished.

I think you could do better than the original builder as concerns the aesthetics of the job. And it doesn't appear that structurally it would be that challenging, either.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[makethatkerdistick]

Thanks for your replies, Shawn and CX.

I shall replace that old ugly post, repair the wall and place a new one on top. Best solution. CX made it clear what he thinks of the aesthetic value of the current one. Haha!

I am looking primarily for metal, ideally pre-painted aluminum for no-maintenance performance. Wood is not my preferred option.
AFCO has load-bearing aluminum posts. However, the smaller sizes 3x3 or 4x4 inches aren’t available with the optional load spreading plate option at the top and bottom. I need something to spread the load at the top to the soffit cover to prevent the aluminum walls from sinking into the soft wood. I could contrive something, but if I am buying a new pole, it might as well come with all the proper supplies.

Any tips on a good square aluminum load-bearing post, no larger than 4x4 inches and with the proper accoutrements? Simple is fine, nothing fancy (straight walls or some fluting are ok) Any brands you all prefer?

[PC7060]

Yes, I recommend the ones made from fiberglass.

[cx]

And I prefer the aluminum square tubing made from steel for those applications, Wolfgang.

I feel sure I could locate some aluminum square tubing were I to make an effort, but I couldn't tell you off-hand just where I'd get it. Then there's the problem of converting the TIG machine from steel to aluminum while it's actual owner is not using it for his business, and....... I do so like welding some nice, clean aluminum now and then, though.

Steel is just a whole lot easier on my end. And if my customer were seriously concerned with maintenance, I'd simply weld it up and take it to my local powder-coating shop for a rather permanent finish. I'm sure you have the same capabilities somewhere in your area, Wolfgang.

[makethatkerdistick]

I am going with the Afco Endura 3.5 in x 3.5 inch square aluminum column. It already comes factory powder-coated. I just have to make my own two load distribution plates from some 1/8 or 1/4 in aluminum material, but that seems pretty affordable.
The column is attractively fluted and among the slimmest they offer. Plenty of load bearing and doesn’t overwhelm my small space. Plus, looks tons better than that old one. $187 shipped to my Homers.

CX, I have not welded yet. And even if I had, it takes practice to make a good looking weld joint. I looked at material for making an attractive column from steel. There is nothing available locally other than simple fence posts. And then I have to find someone locally for the powder coat job. I figured I won’t save much with steel after everything is said and done.

My old steel support was rusty everywhere around the base. It had an aluminum containment ring around it that had been sitting directly on the masonry for decades. Virtually no corrosion on the aluminum! Can’t go wrong with aluminum.