Want to run this curbless shower by you

[megaboy12231]

The above image is the plan.
I decided I don't want to alter the joists so chose the Kerdi linear drain slope for minimum thickness at the transition with the rest of the floor.

The shower is still 5/16" too high.
I'm planning to use Ditra Heat (1/4") to make up the difference. (Not gonna run heat cables though)
I'm assuming the remaining 1/16" is fine to ignore.

Is this the correct plan???

Thank you in advance.

[cx]

Welcome, Dave.

Upon what do you intend to set that Schluter foam tray? In your drawing it appears to sit on the joist tops, which doesn't work.

I don't understand the top drawing at all, truth be known. Where is the drain in that drawing?

The thickness of that 5/8ths" plywood is at best 19/32nds" unless it's rather old actual 5/8ths" plywood.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[jonchicagoland]

Keep in mind also that Ditra Heat is *nominally* 1/4" thick. Actual thickness is less, along with CX's plywood thickness observation.

[megaboy12231]

I'm glad I asked before ripping things out.

CX, I updated the image. I will have blockings to support the lowered plywood for the tray. I tape-measured the plywood, and it's actually very close to 5/8", only very slightly less.

Jon, I measured the Ditral Heat, and it was also very close to 1/4" unless it was pressed down I guess.

Let's say the Ditra Heat and my plywood combined is actually thinner, so the height difference at the transition is 1/8", is there a solution to overcome the difference? or will it be a matter of just using more thinsets?

[Gozo]

From you 2nd drawing (the whole room view), I’m not getting how you’re going to transition from the curbless shower entry to the area where the tub is. I’m assuming that the tub floor level is the same as the 5/8” decking of the rest of the room. Everything of the floor of the shower area should be sloped towards the drain. That would leave some discontinuity at the entry area of the shower.

[megaboy12231]

Dang!!! Jeff, you saved me from botching this project. What a great pointer!

So, now I'm thinking.. I should have a half wall or curb there?
(Red in the image)

* Image updated

[Tiger Mountain Tile Inc]

Height-wise, I think you'll be fine.

I don't like that the glass is the only thing that is stopping water from exiting the shower. I think the glass should go on a curb which is just a better design, IMO.

Additionally, having a curb would eliminate any height differences for 2/3rds of the shower. You'd only need the entrance to work out.

Also, why not have the drain extend all the way to the half wall?

Personally, I'm not crazy about drains in the entrance but your design would have most of the water draining at the other end, so that's not bad.

I wonder: would it feel weird to have the shower head at one and the floor leaning another direction?

Most single slope showers that I've done have the slope to the direction of the shower head.

[megaboy12231]

Thanks for the pointers, James.
I was gonna use Schluter DECO SG profile for the glass, so waterproofing is good there, and the position of the drain was only because I didn't have a choice, not wanting to alter the joists. And 70" line drain was the longest I found, hence it didn't cover the whole length.

Upon estimating the cost, I found it ridiculous how expensive the long line drains + grates were.
So I'm thinking to go Curbed shower now..
Here is the image.
The pitch and the no-door design should be fine, right??

[Gozo]

Hi Dave. I’m gonna throw a bunch of negativity your way. Not to be a downer, but just things to think about.
1 - why the doorless entry? I’ve got a shower door and after I shower, I squeegee the inside of the glass and shower. I open the door a bit to get the entirety of the curb, and get a blast of cold air. It’s still cold feeling in the winter with the heat on. I’m probably 105F after a hot shower, the air hitting me is maybe 80F - feels cold. Even with the glass up to the ceiling to lessen convection, you’ll still get a chilly butt.
2 - your plan looks like the shower controls are at the deep end of the shower. Even with your water heater right on the opposite wall, you’re going to get a blast of cold water until the hot water gets there. If you need to let the water run for a bit to warm up, you’ll need to walk into the shower and dodge out quick before you get soaked (again cold). Putting the controls near the open end means getting to the breezy area when you have to make adjustments midshower.
3 - with the plan for the pan as it is now, if you want a level border of the pan, the slope at the drain to shower head wall is going to be kind of steep.

[Tiger Mountain Tile Inc]

You can put in a curbless shower with a center square drain. You don't have to use a linear drain.

Look into Rapid Recess. You can still use your Schluter pan with their systems.

You could always put the controls on the half wall when you walk in and leave the shower head where you have it.

[cx]

Half wall (does it still exist?) is a long way from the shower head and would make adjusting whilst feeling the water difficult for most folks. Think I'd put it on the east wall a little closer to the shower head.

If the east wall is an exterior wall, and if the OP is in the far north (a geographic location in your User Profile is always helpful), some extra considerations might be in order.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[megaboy12231]

Originally Posted by Gozo

I’m gonna throw a bunch of negativity your way.

That's the whole point of this thread, so keep them coming!
We are fine with a chilly butt as we are used to using Bathtubs. We just hate cleaning doors.

Originally Posted by Gozo

2 - your plan looks like the shower controls are at the deep end of the shower. Even with your water heater right on the opposite wall, you’re going to get a blast of cold water until the hot water gets there.

This is a great point I never thought of. But I'll have a rain shower + handheld shower on a slide bar. This may work even if I want the controls at the deep end? I can point the handheld straight down on the floor to start the water and avoid getting hit.

3 - with the plan for the pan as it is now, if you want a level border of the pan, the slope at the drain to shower head wall is going to be kind of steep.

Another great point. I'll move the drain to the center.

Originally Posted by Tiger Mountain Tile Inc

Look into Rapid Recess. You can still use your Schluter pan with their systems.

I'm still learning, so please correct me if I got anything wrong below.
Isn't Rapid Recess basically the same as using blockings like this video?
https://youtu.be/OexDcwZKvkc?t=183
I thought my only option to have a decent size curbless without altering joists was using the linear Schluter pan because they are thin at 15/16" at the drain side. And that's where it meets the rest of the floor. I knew mortar bed is not an option because it cannot be that thin. Any higher setup than that, I will have to raise the rest of the floor, which I want to avoid. (Is there a thicker substrate than Ditra XL?) I know a 48x48 Kerdi pan with a center drain is 1" thick, but it's too small to be doorless.

Originally Posted by CX

If the east wall is an exterior wall, and if the OP is in the far north

I'm in Canada and the east wall is the interior wall.
But I rather not put controls there if the above handheld method is fine to avoid the cold water because I want to have a big ass niche on that wall.

Originally Posted by CX

Half wall (does it still exist?)

I'm leaning toward the curbed shower if there is no good solution for a curbless. Then the half-wall won't be there.

[cx]

Dave, I mentioned putting that geographic location in your User Profile because if you don't the information will be lost before we leave this page and the information is frequently useful in answering your questions.

[megaboy12231]

Signature updated!

[megaboy12231]

I was doing research further on the curbless option and it looks like I can use Kerdi pan 48 X 60 with a regular drain IF I can use 1/2" cement backer boards for the rest of the floor. Is it possible to cover Kerdi membrane over the transition and there is no problem with tiling?