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Old 07-30-2019, 01:26 PM   #16
clifton clowers
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Popping thinset out of screw heads is not usually that difficult. Or you can grab the screws with a vice grip.
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Old 07-30-2019, 01:55 PM   #17
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well, you could always take your shower with you when you move if it was easier to remove!
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Old 07-30-2019, 07:56 PM   #18
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I wouldn't worry about it. What John said, I want the next guy to cuss a lot when tearing out my showers.
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Old 08-15-2019, 11:29 PM   #19
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Kerdi Board to Drywall Transition

Hi all,

I have installed a Kerdi Board shower, and getting ready to start setting tile. But, I have searched around (here and elsewhere online) about how to handle the transition from Kerdi Board to drywall. I am planning for my (12x24) tile to overlap onto the drywall by 3 or 4 inches. The drywall transition will be on the outside edge of my curb and on the dry side of my shower door.

Some people suggest maybe using Kerdi Band for the transition. I have also seen recommendations of alkali-free concrete mesh or even paper drywall tape. Does it matter which method I use?

Why would I need to use anything at all? Won't the tile/thinset essentially work as a cover for the joint?

Thanks
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Old 08-15-2019, 11:49 PM   #20
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Fiber Tape and thinset that joint or kediband and use thinset. The substrate needs to be binded together and move as one or you have a stress point on your tile when the two planes move independently. Insure the tape/kerdi band doesnt cross over beyond where u plan to tile.
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Old 08-16-2019, 12:17 AM   #21
RichieW13
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Thanks.

So essentially, tile and thinset doesn't bind the two substrates together like tape or Kerdi Band would?

Why would that be? If I am using thinset to attach either way, how does the tape create a better bond than the tile?

(Sorry to dig a little deeper on this. I like to understand the science/logic behind these things.)
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Old 08-16-2019, 06:47 AM   #22
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Can't tell by your photo where the joint falls, Richie. If it's well outside the wet area, you can finish it like a drywall joint or with mesh tape and thinset mortar as previously recommended. If it's not well outside the wet area, you should move it.

If you finish the joint with KerdiBand or similar and that extends beyond your tile, you can finish over that with drywall mud and your wall finish.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 08-16-2019, 10:49 AM   #23
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The edge of my Kerdi Board lines up with the outside edge of my curb.

So I would say it is not "well outside" the wet area.
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Old 08-16-2019, 11:07 AM   #24
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Since your tile will extend past that joint by 3-4 inches I'd use Kerdi band and thinly mixed mortar to do that seam, especially since the seam aligns with the front of your curb. Indeed, you really want to ensure you water proof that seam to curb junction.

If you've not done so, do run some more screws in along the edge of that drywall.

You could perhaps argue that the tile bonded to both the DW and the foam board will hold that seam together, and the DW and foam board shouldn't really move independently if they're both screwed to the same stud, but given the small amount of work necessary to dress that seam at this stage why take the risk?
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Old 08-16-2019, 11:12 AM   #25
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Thanks Dan!
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Old 08-16-2019, 01:01 PM   #26
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There is engineering behind why the seams in the tile substrate need to be taped together rather than just depending on the tile itself to bridge the substrates together. The main one is resistance to vibration. I can take two sheets of substrate and tape them together and then take a rubber mallet and start lightly pounding over and over again simulating movements in the walls from things like doors slamming to people walking. Because the tape is very strong yet also flexible it will maintain that connection indefinitely. Stress cracks in the thinset mortar may begin to form in a line right at the seam but because the tape is flexible (be it fiberglasstape or kerdi) the stress cracks will be unable to propagate across and break the bond between the tape and the substrate. Thus despite the stress crack at the flex point the two planes of material will remain interlocked not allowing the two planes to deflect from one another substantially. Now consider the same thing with tile only. Tile as you know is very rigid and thus will translate all movement across it. Over time stress cracks in the mortar bonding the tile to the wall will unzip the mortar across the tile because of two different planes of movement. As those cracks grow the two planes of substrate will move more and more until eventually the entire tile will come loose. Anyone who has done a tile demo knows the devastating effect a heavy blow of vibration from an impact has on the bonding of the tile to the substrate. Yet long after all your heavy hammering knocks all your tiles loose the fiber tape bonding the substrates together will remain in tact.

Bottom line. TAPE YOUR JOINTS. It's industry standard for a reason.
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Old 08-16-2019, 01:04 PM   #27
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Awesome. Thanks for the background theory John.

I always feel like understanding why something is done helps me in future similar projects to avoid pitfalls and know what to look for.
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