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Unread 10-11-2019, 10:16 AM   #1
depawl
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Self Leveling Question

I've read the liberry article on SLC, and have a question regarding the use of metal lath.
I have an area in a bathroom that needs to be leveled, it is off by 3/4". So at one end I will need 3/4" of SLC feathered to zero at the other end. The end that has zero SLC will actually have a foot or so of bare plywood.
Should the lath be discontinued near where the SLC is feathered to zero, or should it be continued to the wall (covering bare plywood)? I also have another area in this room that will require only about 1/4" of SLC, it is even necessary/advisable to use lath on such a thin lift?
As always any advice is much appreciated.
PS: First time back to the forum in about 5 years. Took me that long to get up the gumption to finally tackle that bathroom.
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Unread 10-11-2019, 12:01 PM   #2
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Welcome back, Dennis.

You would not have any lath exposed, and would probably just need to have the lath terminate somewhere in that lift. If the particular SLC you're using requires lath at 1/2" thickness or more, you could probably terminate it when the SLC gets to less than 1/2".

You don't mention the size of the bathroom, but often it's easier when dealing with a drop of that much to simply remove the plywood and sister the joists to level the floor, rather than try to level it from up top.

What do you plan to use for a tiling substrate? Some require the floor to be flat before they are installed, some after.
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Unread 10-11-2019, 12:31 PM   #3
clifton clowers
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There are self levelers that do not require lath at all.

https://www.ardexamericas.com/produc...d-backerboard/
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Unread 10-11-2019, 04:41 PM   #4
jadnashua
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Be very selective of the SLC you chose as some require a minimum of 1/2" above the highest point when used over wood. If this is over a slab, then you wouldn't need lath, either.

Also be very aware that SLC is not like water...while it will try to seek its own level, it's more like when you pour pancake batter into the pan...it doesn't spread to the edges in a thin sheet. If you want to make crepes, you have to move it around manually. Also, it's lots harder to get things flat and level when you have it thinner...it's easier to flood the area, spread it all into the corners, then let things settle. If it's too thin, surface tension will allow it to follow the hump if you don't help it along. Throw in that it starts to set fairly quickly (don't try the rapid setting stuff, especially on your first use!), you don't have much time to resolve any issues. It's best to have help with mixing, pouring, and moving it around. Don't let your tools cure in it, either, if you want to keep them.
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Unread 10-12-2019, 09:49 AM   #5
depawl
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Thanks guys for all the comments and advice. I think the SLC that doesn't require lath sounds like the way to go for me.
Home Depot has it via online ordering.
Thanks again.
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Unread 10-12-2019, 12:15 PM   #6
depawl
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Preformed Shower Pan

Greetings all.
Doing a bathroom remodel and plan to install a higher end solid surface shower pan, with tile on walls and bathroom floor. Both manufacturers of pans that I've looked at specify installation as per the attached. I'm confused by the requirement to leave a half inch gap between the wallboard (I plan to use Kerdi board) and the shower pan flange, to prevent water damage. Seems like the opposite would be true? Wouldn't leaving a gap there instead allow water/moisture to enter?
In any event as I said I had planned to use Kerdi board and as per the Kerdi videos, either notch out the back of the Kerdi board and lap it over the flange and fill any gap with Kerdi fix (or rest the Kerdi board on top of the flange and again fill the void with Kerdi fix) and cover with Kerdi band and thinset.
Anything wrong with my approach and any ideas why the installation is spec'd as it is (with the gap)?
Thanks.
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Unread 10-12-2019, 02:51 PM   #7
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The best way we've found to attach the board to the flange is with a strip of waterproofing, such as Kerdi band. You can attach it to the board with mortar just like you normally would, then attach it to the flange with Kerdifix or some such sealant.

When time permits, I like to do one or the other, allow it to dry overnight, then attach the other. But if you're careful and coordinated enough, you can do both at the same time.
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Unread 10-12-2019, 02:52 PM   #8
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Dennis, some of us can't tell any detail at all from that photo. How 'bout you post a link to the instructions for the shower receptor in question.

How many bathroom projects you got going right now?
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Unread 10-12-2019, 03:47 PM   #9
depawl
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Sorry about the image.
Here's the link:

https://images.homedepot-static.com/...bc2fd4903a.pdf

Just one bathroom project, and it'll most likely be my last.
Thanks
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Unread 10-12-2019, 04:05 PM   #10
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Yeah, that's what they all say, Dennis. I'll combine your first two threads here so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. A moderator can give it a more generic title whenever you'd like to suggest one.

Kevin's got you covered on the method of waterproofing (them young kids can read that tiny print, I guess) where your receptor actually has a tiling flange, but the rest of it, like the front corners where the most failures will occur, just don't provide a good waterproofing method at all. You may be able to bond a sheet-type direct bonded waterproofing membrane to the receptor with KerdiFix or similar pookey and hope for the best, but I sure wish those manufacturers would start making their products for the real world.

If you'll download the Kerdi Installation Handbook from the Schluter website, you'll find some photos and description of the method Kevin is recommending. I think it's on page 34 these days.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-13-2019, 05:43 PM   #11
jadnashua
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IF the pan isn't fully bedded and can deflect a little...having the wallboard tight up against it can cause squeaks. Plus, the different materials are likely to expand and contract at different rates, so if it's tight, it could cause something to bow or to break a rigid bond that mortar would create.

I'd follow the Schluter instructions and use Kerdiband to bridge the slight gap, with mortar on the KerdiBoard, and Kerdifix to bond it to the pan. As long as your tile is more than half supported by the board, it will work since you're not going to be walking on the wall. Most people these days are using quite large tile, so it's not an issue. Remember that industry standards call for an expansion joint at all changes of plane or materials. You could do that with a physical gap (not great in a shower), filling it with caulk, or to use an engineered expansion joint (Schluter has lots of them). My preference, if the colors chosen will work, is to use a profile/expansion joint so you never have to deal with caulk down the road.
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