Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 04-04-2020, 10:22 PM   #1
andy911
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 75
Caulking shower stall questions

Hi all, I’m installing glue up 2-sided shower walls and had a couple of questions:

1) These walls are made to order and it seems they have made one 1/4” shorter than the other. This means if I line them up at the top and leave a 1/8” gap at the bottom of one wall the other will have a 3/8” gap. As long as I use a backer rod will I be okay with silicone?

2) Aesthetically, I would prefer it if I didn’t have to silicone seal the wall/wall corner. I was thinking I might lay down a heavy bead of silicone behind the corner (ie before I set in the 2nd panel) so that it squishes through the seam, which I will wipe down but hopefully there will be a good seal between and behind the two panels. Is this strategy foolish?


Thanks!
__________________
andy
andy911 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 04-04-2020, 10:39 PM   #2
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 11,460
What are the pieces made of?
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-04-2020, 10:54 PM   #3
andy911
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 75
The wall pieces? They are Vanico uniwall panels, which appear to be a fiberglass core with a laminate white finished surface sandwich.
__________________
andy
andy911 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-04-2020, 11:04 PM   #4
jadnashua
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 13,780
Assuming these are supposed to work together, I'd try to take them back and get some that are matched.

If they're just flat panels, I'd consider just cutting the longer one off so they were the same height. Done on the top, you'd probably never notice.
__________________
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
jadnashua is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-04-2020, 11:30 PM   #5
Tool Guy - Kg
Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
 
Tool Guy - Kg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 21,911
Panels as you describe are meant to be fitted, or scribed, into position. Find the lowest point of the shower pan where it meets the two walls, then measure upwards to a height equal to that of the shortest panel and draw a level line on the walls. That line represents the highest possible wall height, assuming you want both to be at the same height and fit nicely to the pan.

As far as the caulking: it’s not a great idea to do as you’re suggesting. The caulk bead you put between the panels...or between the panels and pan needs to simultaneously deform and stay adhered to the adjacent materials as the walls and pan microscopically expand and contract due to normal changes in temperature and moisture. And caulk that’s mashed between two materials that are almost touching each other severely impedes the caulks ability to flex. A traditional corner bead allows more flex to the caulk.

I suggest looking into ColorRite’s “Caulk-Mist” spray and their “Perfect Bead” tool. The combination of the two are extremely helpful in making neat silicone caulk beads.

__________________
Tonto Goldstein... but my friends call me Bubba

Help an awesome summer camp!
Tool Guy - Kg is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-05-2020, 06:25 AM   #6
andy911
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 75
These were custom ordered and due to coronavirus the manufacturer is shut down for the foreseeable future. I also do not trust my ability to cut a clean straight trim line, so shortening the panel is out of the question. Are you guys saying the large gap with backer rod is a bad idea? For what it’s worth the nailing edge of the pan is still very comfortably overlapped by the wall panels, and is already silicone sealed to the MoldTough drywall backing.


Thanks for the color rite tooling links, that will help. I still don’t think the silicone will match either the color or finish of the walls but maybe unavoidable.
__________________
andy

Last edited by andy911; 04-05-2020 at 06:57 AM.
andy911 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-05-2020, 09:16 AM   #7
andy911
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 75
Also these panels have finished edges on 3 sides and they are a composite core, so I don’t *think* they are meant to be cut/scribed. The manufacturer recommends a 1/4” gap to the shower pan which is already larger than what you guys want

Cheers
__________________
andy
andy911 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-05-2020, 01:33 PM   #8
Davy
Moderator -- Mud Man
 
Davy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area
Posts: 32,655
You've probably thought of this but if these panels go wall to wall and floor to ceiling, hopefully the shower is open enough to get the panels in there. And, if there's a piece for the ceiling, most of the time it's installed first and the wall pieces up against it for added support.
__________________
Davy

www.davystephenstile.com
Davy is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-05-2020, 01:47 PM   #9
andy911
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 75
Thankfully it’s just two pieces and they are only 7’. I was originally thinking about floor to ceiling but they don’t manufacture that height anymore and in hindsight it would have been a much more difficult install anyways.

Cheers
__________________
andy
andy911 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-10-2020, 11:23 PM   #10
Tool Guy - Kg
Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
 
Tool Guy - Kg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 21,911
Quote:
Originally Posted by andy911
...I still don’t think the silicone will match either the color or finish of the walls but maybe unavoidable.
Color Rite makes hundreds of colors. And you can get the silicone in a shiny or matte finish. And they also have a multi-colored-granular-flecked caulk known as PolySil if your panels mimic some granite or solid-surface flecked pattern.

__________________
Tonto Goldstein... but my friends call me Bubba

Help an awesome summer camp!
Tool Guy - Kg is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
JJ's shower stall questions jamesj Tile Forum/Advice Board 3 10-30-2007 10:54 AM
Shower Stall Questions twintwin Tile Forum/Advice Board 7 01-26-2005 08:12 PM
Questions concerning 1965 shower stall. sheeez Tile Forum/Advice Board 3 08-23-2004 06:50 PM
Caulking a shower stall onejohne Tile Forum/Advice Board 4 12-18-2002 08:32 PM
shower stall project / questions hallstenokc Tile Forum/Advice Board 4 10-02-2002 05:03 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:43 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC