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Unread 04-06-2020, 03:20 PM   #16
TFish
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Hey Davy,

Yes the liner was folded over, corner pieces were installed with the oaty adhesive recommended. I used fat mud consistency mix shown on this site which Id never heard of before.
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Unread 04-06-2020, 05:48 PM   #17
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Hey CX,

Been reading everything and trying to get my material list together. I clicked on the link that John Bridge shared for Durock and was looking at the installation PDF. They state

"JOINING Fill joints with latex-fortified mortar or Type 1 organic adhesive and immediately embed alkali-resistant, fiberglass mesh joint tape." and also
"Installing Ceramic Tile Apply latex-fortified mortar or Type 1 organic adhesive with a notched trowel. Hold trowel at an angle to maintain uniform thickness. Refer to setting material manufacturer for specific information related to trowel type and size"

Is that latex fortified mortar the same thing as modified thinset/thinset with polymer additive?

And they recommend the Type 1 organic if not the fortified mortar, thats (Type 1) not preffered in showers correct?
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Unread 04-06-2020, 06:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis
Is that latex fortified mortar the same thing as modified thinset/thinset with polymer additive?
Lemme try one more time, Travis. You want a thinset mortar meeting the requirements of ANSI A118.4. That information will be on the package and on the product manufacturer's website. That's what you need know. It matters not how that standard is achieved, whether mixed with water or with a special additive, so long as it meets that standard.

USG's instructions have never, in my opinion, been well thought out or well written, but that's a different discussion. Many, probably most, modified thinset mortars these days are modified with a polymer other than latex. You don't care in your application. You care that it meets A118.4.

And why they ever recommended treating the joints with an organic adhesive is well beyond my understanding. I strongly recommend you not do that,whether in a wet or dry area, but that's entirely up to you.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-06-2020, 07:36 PM   #19
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Ok thanks CX,

I get it, the ANSI requirement is most important. Just clarifying since I was told to apply according to manufacturers recommendations.
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Unread 04-06-2020, 08:43 PM   #20
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And you should always do that, Travis, but sometimes the manufacturer's instructions require a bit of interpretation. Given the choice, you would chose the manufacturer's instructions over the opinion of someone not known to you that you found on the Internet.

It's all a matter of risk management.
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Unread 04-07-2020, 07:01 PM   #21
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Or two people you found on the internet. Ditch the mastic for the wet areas. Although, I will use it on a kitchen backsplash when using ceramic tiles.
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Unread 04-07-2020, 07:19 PM   #22
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HAHA Davy,

Yea I was actually going to go that direction. I do have another question about the Durock. Should i use the same stuff for the corner bead that is used on the joints inside the shower? Its going to be in the dry where the sheetrock and Durock on the outside of the shower meet. Reading in the Durock guide, they just talk about applying the corner with sheetrock products but never specify if it can be used in conjunction with sheetrock/Durock combination. I read on a thread here but it was mixed info and the link shared was a dead link for a recommended corner application.
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Unread 04-08-2020, 07:53 AM   #23
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Are you wrapping tile around the corner, Travis, or does the tile stop at the corner?

If you are stopping the tile at the corner you'll want a corner bead to make a nice, clean edge. To minimize build up I'd use one of the flexible corner beads - comes in a box on a roll; Strait-Flex Medium Drywall Corner Tape. Use a loose mix of mortar on the shower side of the corner, and drywall compound for the other side.
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Unread 04-08-2020, 05:47 PM   #24
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Thanks Dan!

Honestly I haven't decided how I want to do it yet. Thought about stopping at the corner. Not sure if Im skilled enough to do the wrap although I haven't researched that yet. Really just trying to get a solid foundation for tile at the moment.
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Unread 04-15-2020, 06:05 PM   #25
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Floor and wall joint in shower

Hey guys! Moving along, Ill post pics soon. Questions:

1) ill be using the mesh alkaline resistant tape for all the seams in the shower, should I do as recommended above on the corner and use thin set on Durock side and sheetrock compond on ceiling side at wall/ceiling?

2) Im looking for info on prepping Durock (rough side) that runs out of the shower and will be in a completely dry area that meets the sheet rock. Whats the best way/materials to smooth out or skim to prep for paint?
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Unread 04-15-2020, 06:53 PM   #26
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1. I'm confused. What corner. Post #23 above seems to have covered one of your outside corners.

2. I would treat all of it as though it were drywall.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-16-2020, 07:47 AM   #27
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CX, yes #23 is about the outer corner but I was wondering if I should use the same process described minus the corner bead. I ask about this because I have read that certain compounds will crack because they evaporate to harden and the durock will suck them dry and it will crack. Not sure how true this is. The compound I have is pictured below. I was going to use that to skim the Durock for a smooth finish.
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Unread Yesterday, 03:02 PM   #28
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Update

Hello everyone! Been a minute since I posted or asked any questions. I finally have the tile floor in my shower and I'm ready to start doing the wall tile. My first question is: should I try to smooth out the edges that you see in the picture where the compound is a little higher than the actual surface of the Durock? Also my second question is when tiling from floor-to-ceiling, I haven't noticed videos of people starting with the tile at the floor first. I've been seeing people use a board that they screw into the wall to have a level surface to tile on and I never see them go back and tile the bottom part of the shower. Is this the way it's supposed to be done? Put the board in and make sure it's level and put your tile on the wall from there and then go back and take the board off and do the bottom tile? Thanks!! Name:  20200531_165209_Film2.jpg
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Unread Yesterday, 04:32 PM   #29
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Not sure I'm understanding your question, Travis, but I would comment that I don't think you have enough RedGard on your walls for proper waterproofing.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread Yesterday, 04:33 PM   #30
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Yes. This is called a ledger board and is especially handy when the perimeter isn't level. Set the board for the second row and come back and install the first row later.

That Redgard looks way too thin.

Cx and I were typing at the same time. That's the second time today his chickens were faster than mine.
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