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Unread 05-11-2013, 12:45 PM   #1
joefar75
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Mud or self-leveling?? Help !

ok.
Doing 700 sq ft of tile in a basement where the floor is off on Average 1/2" but as much as 1" in a small 4 sq ft area. I'd say average is 5/8". I have radiant under the existing concrete slab so Im a little weary about butting another 1.5 to 2.5" of mud.
But then on the other hand.. Im going to end up using a @#$*LOAD of self leveling; I'd estimate 40 bags @ $24 a bag.

Not sure which way to go?
or if there's another product that might be useful.
thanks in advance.
Joe
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Unread 05-11-2013, 02:04 PM   #2
ceramictec
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joefar75
Not sure which way to go?
add pea gravel to the SLC and your problem is solved.
most manufacturers will tell you how to use it.

Laticrete makes a new SLC called NXT LEVEL PLUS
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Unread 05-11-2013, 02:32 PM   #3
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I was going to add the pea gravel to the area that were off by more than 1/2".... do you think I should add it when it's less?
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Unread 05-11-2013, 03:15 PM   #4
ceramictec
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you would need to call the manufacturers tech to ask that.
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Unread 05-11-2013, 06:14 PM   #5
Ken
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My vote is for old fashion mud work... But that's only because I love to do mud work. SLC is too expensive for my blood. :-D
Also, just curious.. Why would you need to have the mud so deep? 2.5" to fix a floor in that condition seems a bit much from my perspective.
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Unread 05-11-2013, 07:55 PM   #6
ob1kanobee
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Is there a video on how to use the NXT from Laticrete?
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Unread 05-11-2013, 08:11 PM   #7
joefar75
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KURGON... I'd have to start with a min of 1.5" mud at the highest point, then there's about a 1" low point.... = 2.5"

Cant feather mud correct?

is there a way to build up the low point?
it's a small area... maybe 3' x 3'
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Unread 05-11-2013, 09:54 PM   #8
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Just run screeds around the whole thing and through it (whatever) and dry-pack it. I'd trust that before SLC.
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Unread 05-11-2013, 10:35 PM   #9
Tiling SB
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Smile

Joe,
GO with the mud,
TCNA does not recommend feathering, but I believe you could go as thin as 3/4 with a bonded mortar bed.
You'll find plenty of help here to walk you through it
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Unread 05-12-2013, 05:10 AM   #10
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I don't quite understand the whole situation but where you are concerned about it being too thin you can cut the mud and stop it then feather it out with something else. I use stucco with thinset to adhere it for feathering, thinset only or whatever else I have laying around that will work.
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Unread 05-12-2013, 05:54 AM   #11
Brad Denny
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Joe,
Concrete prep is always a joy.

The good thing, this isn't a heavy commercial traffic area so you have some liberties. The bad, it all costs money to get it right.

Consider a few points...
  1. With a bonded to concrete bed in a residential setting I would feel comfortable going as thin as .5" with a modified mortar bed as long as the areas aren't that big.
  2. With an SLC, you'd only have to fill the low points. As I understand, that shouldn't be that much (1" max), especially if you grind some.
  3. The "high" places. Are they so large that they couldn't be ground down a bit? Maybe worried about the radiant heating?
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Unread 05-12-2013, 06:07 AM   #12
joefar75
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Wow.... lots of help here. Thank you again. Can someone explain what a modified mortar Bed is? What's the correct mix for that?
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Unread 05-12-2013, 06:16 AM   #13
Brad Denny
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I was specifically thinking of this product, Joe...Laticrete 3701.
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Unread 05-12-2013, 09:38 AM   #14
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Or you can modify it your self is cheaper this way

I usually mix 4 to 5 part all purpose sand, 1 part portland cement (also known as common cement) and add about 3 oz. Acrylic Mortar Admix to water to mix your mud.

Premixed stuff is Good, But I like to make my mud from scratch I got more control over the sand/ cement ratio
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Unread 05-12-2013, 03:03 PM   #15
MDtile
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I'm not following why you need to float it up 1 1/2 - 2 1/2". If you just need it flat, you can use deck mud to a minimum depth of 1/4 -1/2" at the high point. Just notch a light coat of thin set to the slab and go to town while it is still wet. Or crack-iso 1st if your slab doesn't look too good.

A couple C metal cap strips work great for floating deck mud: nothing to fill after you pull them out. Just set them into the deck mud at your established height using a level and mallet, and you have instant screed strips to straight edge off of. Easy peasy and cheap too. Forget the self-leveling, you are not going to end up with a floor even close to being as flat as deck mud will give you.
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