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Unread 10-09-2013, 08:38 PM   #46
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What does Mrs Mike prefer?
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Unread 10-12-2013, 12:44 AM   #47
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Well, it's just my daughter and I...and she likes the diagonal, and wants the future tile backsplash to have some blue/pink/purple in it.

Tear out is going pretty fast. Instead of removing all of the vinyl sheet, I am just cutting out enough to see the seams, then scraping those down to expose the fastener heads. Remove the screws, and then pry the plywood up. The edges are screwed...the middles have a combination of nails and staples.

Ditra question: Does it matter which way you lay the ditra...parallel or perpendicular to the substrate sheets?

The Crain toe kick saw will be used tomorrow and then hopefully go up for sale the day after.

Once the last of the vinyl underlayment is removed, I'll check the floor for flatness. Hopefully, it is good. Would be a bummer if it needed to be leveled further.

Thank you for your help.

Mike
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Unread 10-12-2013, 09:25 AM   #48
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Quote:
Does it matter which way you lay the ditra...parallel or perpendicular to the substrate sheets?
Doesn't matter which way you run the Ditra.
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Unread 10-12-2013, 11:31 PM   #49
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Tear Out

Tear Out Complete!

Crain 795 Toe Kick Saw - worked very well. In the corners, I tried using a flush cut hand saw. Then, drove to Lowes and picked up an Oscillating Saw. So much faster, and a quality cut to boot. Tear out took the better part of the day, but we also demolished the tile countertops.

This week, I'll pick up the supplies to lay the tile, and hope to start that part of the project next Friday. I checked the floor for flatness and I think I'm good.

Time for bed.
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Unread 10-13-2013, 06:42 PM   #50
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How to Prep SubFloor after Demo?

I've been searching this forum and Google, maybe I'm using the wrong search terms...

What do you guys do to clean the floor prior to laying tiles or ditra down? Just vacuum with the brush attachment or ?

Thanks,

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Unread 10-13-2013, 06:59 PM   #51
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Usually a good shop vacuuming. If needed that is followed by a damp sponging as we work along.
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Unread 10-15-2013, 10:32 PM   #52
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I was planning on using versabond between the OSB subfloor and Ditra Set between the Ditra XL and Porcelain Tile. Reading the tech sheet for versabond, it say's under product limitations not to use it for direct bonding to OSB.

Is that referencing tile directly to OSB or does that mean don't use Versabond to adhere the Ditra XL to OSB?

Edit: I searched and it looks like Versabond is used, even though the mfg recommends against it. I will use Versabond....and be ok....right?
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Last edited by MikeInSeattle; 10-15-2013 at 11:07 PM. Reason: Clarify information found via additional searches.
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Unread 10-15-2013, 11:56 PM   #53
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You are fine. CBP's limitations on Versabond mean don't install tile directly to OSB using Versabond. And you aren't doing that, you are applying a membrane, and then your tile

Versabond is a fine choice for bonding your Ditra to the OSB.
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Unread 10-16-2013, 07:25 PM   #54
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Mike, I've heard people other than those as CBP say the same thing Gerry just said there, that CBP thinks it's OK to bond other things to OSB with VersaBond, just not tile. But I've never seen that in writing in any of CBP's data sheets. You'll note that CBP recommends the use of VersaBond over exterior glue plywood, but lumps OSB in the same category as Lauan plywood and particle board.

Given that, I personally wouldn't use VersaBond over OSB for any application. And I'm a long time user of VersaBond.

But, then, I would be hard-pressed to bond anything to OSB with any thinset mortar, truth be known. A second layer of plywood would solve a couple potential problems there.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-16-2013, 10:00 PM   #55
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Shoot. I feel like a bad student. I know the second layer of ply...especially if I went 3/4 would put my mind at ease regarding did I do everything possible to give my tile job the best base possible.

I opted not to though and it was due to aesthetics with the transition, the deflecto numbers checking out for ceramic with some margin, deflecto being conservative, and this thickness of osb meeting the minimum.

I picked up the thinset and put down the ditra xl tonight and was logging on to ask a couple questions and post a picture..

1. I used a rubber float and a smooth board with rounded edges to press the ditra into the thinset. I pulled up multiple corners and it looked like full coverage to me. I can see the thinset through the ditra but it doesn't look uniform...kind of blotchy. Normal?

2. How long after grouting do I wait to seal and then move in heavy appliances? Range, refer, and the lighter dishwasher?
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Unread 10-16-2013, 10:34 PM   #56
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1- Sounds like you did it right. Once things dry out under there, they'll likely look more uniform. Is it pretty flat?

2- Depends on sealer and the manufacturers install instructions. Typically, they require 3 days minimum at 70F & 50%RH. If it's cooler or more humid, add time. A week is better to cover all the bases. For under appliances, you can push those areas a little to get them back in if you'd like, but leave the other areas to dry longer if possible. Remember, it ain't gonna dry from below due to the Ditra.
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Unread 10-17-2013, 11:02 AM   #57
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Thanks everyone. Can I change the title of this thread to MikeInSeattle - Kitchen Project? I'll post pictures of the floor tile when complete :0

I'll be working on the back splash next. Should I keep those questions on this thread or move to a new one?

First question: How do I proceed with a backsplash project? What is the first step? How do I determine if my wall is suitable? Will the wall flatness determine what tile to use?
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Unread 10-17-2013, 11:18 AM   #58
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Hi Mike. Name changed. You can keep it all here - I know at least one person that'll be appreciative.

First step is usually along the lines of "Honey, what do you want for a backsplash?" Tile, stone, glass, etc... Get your ideas together and decide what you want - type of tile, sizes, colors, patterns, etc... Then go about figuring out how to get er done - this will vary somewhat depending on your decisions above.

Same rules apply to flatness for walls & floors. Obviously, you're not walking on the wall so the structural requirements aren't as strict.

What's there now? Is it clean? If it's clean and flat, you're probably ready to go now.
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Unread 10-17-2013, 12:38 PM   #59
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Thank you! The wall is clean except paint. I'll put a straight edge on it and look for flatness deviations.

The narrow section (about 3 inches tall) behind the sink and under a window is definitely not flat, but I will get numbers for you.

Thanks again!

PS...I'm a pretty cautious guy, especially around saws. I want to keep my digits. I didn't experience any trouble with the toe kick saw, but I made sure to keep the saw at high rpm, didn't back up, etc. I don't know if you need one, but I put it on the "for sale" I'll give it to you or any of the other pros on here that helped, and even cover shipping if you can use it. Mike
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Last edited by MikeInSeattle; 10-17-2013 at 12:40 PM. Reason: clarify no cost..
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Unread 10-17-2013, 12:44 PM   #60
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Thanks for the offer Mike. I'll PM ya.

For a painted wall, **we use a random orbit sander hooked to the shop vac with the coarsest paper we can find - 50 or 80grit. Then, we just scratch it up a bit. You're not sanding per se, just scuffing it up to help the mortar bite. Wipe it off with a damp sponge and you're ready to go.

**edit: if you've got an older home, then lead in paint becomes more probable. No power sanding in this case. Just do the same with hand sanding, and wipe the area clean when you're finished.
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