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Unread 07-13-2013, 02:12 PM   #31
RipRap
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Joe, what happened between May and now ? - you seemed to have a plan then and got some good advice, now it sounds like you never investigated this before....?
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Unread 07-13-2013, 02:31 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe
I understand that 1/2" is the min on a bonded bed, but I have less than that in some places.... So Do I do some SLC in the low spots, and then just work with thinset?
Quote:
Originally Posted by CX Post 24
If you elect to do just a bonded mud bed, the minimum thickness anywhere on the floor must be at least 3/4 of an inch.
There is no published method for a bonded mud floor thinner than 3/4-inch.

You can do some patching for flatness (and level if you want) before installing the mud bed if you want. The concrete subfloor must technically be flat withing 1/4" in ten feet before installing the mud. That's something that's frequently not adhered to, but that's the requirement.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-13-2013, 07:39 PM   #33
jadnashua
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SLC over a slab can feather to zero. In deep areas, you can use some pea gravel to help minimize how much you need. SLC on a big area is a real challenge. You might consider hiring it out, but it is doable with good planning and help. Costly, but a lot faster than a mudbed. This would mean your high areas would not need to get higher, which may be worth something to you. Once you're prep is done, probably done in less than an hour (and if not, you've probably messed up!).
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Unread 07-14-2013, 05:10 AM   #34
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RIP RAP

I did'nt know how bad the floor was.

Once I got the rotarty lasery on it, Im finding out now.
So Im trying to find the best solution.

Still not there yet.
I'd rather do it right....
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Unread 07-14-2013, 08:03 AM   #35
stinkyonion
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I just finished leveling a floor about the same size. A lot of work, high stress at the time, but seems simple in aftersight. Use the mud on the deep portions to the 1/2 inch depth they recommend. Then after apply feathering compound to the areas less than 1/2 inch deep.

The level for me was difficult to see what was needed because it was above the floor, and all I could get was a series of depth measurement. I had better luck with stretching thread across the floor every couple of feet to fully understand what was needed. I had a plywood floor and just drove screws around the perimeter of the room to attach the thread to, but you would have to put down weighted 2x4 around the edges and place thin nails with 90 degree bend along the edge. A loop on the end of the thread will allow you to slide the thread up and down a little as needed to get them set perfectly to desired floor height. The thread will stretch about 6" per 15' so no rubberband needed. Cant use string because it sags with gravity in the middle (stretch a string across next to a thread and the sag will be shockingly obvious). Because I believe in overkill, then I put another set of threads every 2 feet at 90 degrees to the first set and lowered until touched tops of first set of strings. Wow. Was obvious what was needed. Took about 4 hours to do though. You can probably avoid the cross threads except at the room ends, where they will make sure your threads all start and stop perfectly level with eachother.

I used hot melt glue to hold aluminum strips in place and then pulled up the strips after screeding and mostly hardened. I thought the strips should be only 2 feet apart because wider than that and the screed deflects somewhat as you push on it making it scooped out a little bit, and it was just too difficult for this DIYer's first attempt at screeding with wider spacing. Surprised to see person above recommend 5' spacing.
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Unread 09-18-2013, 01:02 PM   #36
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Trowel size & should i butter

hi,
Pretty new to this. But I have a Self leveled floor and Im putting down 18 x 18 porcelain tile. What trowel size should I use? 1/2 x 1/2?
AND
should I butter the back of the tile?

thanks in advance.
Joe
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Unread 09-18-2013, 01:53 PM   #37
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1/2 in trowel and key in back of the tile with flat side
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Unread 09-18-2013, 02:44 PM   #38
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Hi Joe.

Lets keep all your questions about this project in this thread so we can all follow along. We can change the name to something more generic if you'd like, just ask. Thanks.

What bonding mortar are you using? What do the instructions on the bag or spec sheet say?
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Unread 09-18-2013, 03:07 PM   #39
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I was going to use a non motified thin set.
Any thoughts?

I should be ok. no?
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Unread 09-18-2013, 05:50 PM   #40
dhagin
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...sorry, thought you already had a mortar you were planning on using.

How flat is the floor? If more than 1/8 in 10', you may need to do some more prep. For large tiles, we'd use a medium bed mortar. What mortar's are available near you? Once you do decide on a specific mortar, the answers to your trowel size and backbutter questions are typically found on the bag and/or spec sheet. You need to read these before using whatever you choose, so you know how to mix, cure, etc... too.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 06:43 AM   #41
joefar75
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Hey Dhagin,

Floor is a poured floor, so it's as close to perfect as you can get.
Im right outside of NYC so every mortar imaginable is available.
What my concern is, will there be a significant difference in a $5 a bag mortar as apposed to a $14/bag modified mortar.
It's a poured floor on top of a 4" concrete slab that's reinforced with wire mesh and has a vapor barrier.

The 4" Concrete has radiant in it. Im not sure how well it's going to work now with another 1.5" of levelrock on it... but Im not concerned.

thanks
Joe
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Unread 09-19-2013, 01:05 PM   #42
dhagin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe
What my concern is, will there be a significant difference in a $5 a bag mortar as apposed to a $14/bag modified mortar.
Yes. That $5/bag mortar has minimum cement (glue) and will not withstand much or any movement before some type of failure. As mentioned above, we'd use a medium bed mortar, and all will cost $14 or more. There's lots to choose from, take your pick.

Just a few options-
Laticrete
http://www.laticrete.com/contractors...ed_mortar.aspx

Custom Building Products
http://www.custombuildingproducts.co...d-mortars.aspx
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Unread 09-29-2013, 05:24 AM   #43
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Can I make Reg Old thinset Stronger?

Bought 30 bags of everyday THinset for $6 bag, but Im a little concerned that I should have bought the Latex Modified Thinset.

Bag says I can add some Latex Admix... but should I do anything else?
Add portland?

Im putting down 18 x 18 porcelin tile.

thanks
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Unread 09-29-2013, 05:37 AM   #44
Brad Denny
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Hi Joe,
What is the name of the thinset mortar and its manufacturer, and to what are you installing the tile to?
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Unread 09-29-2013, 05:39 AM   #45
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I'd prefer to use Versabond/252 silver/or similar before I'd want to doctor up a crappy thinset with admix and portland. You will be closer in price than you think by the time you buy admix. Plus you will get a more consistent and better product.
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