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Unread 11-01-2012, 01:49 PM   #1
Fatsix
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Glenn had a bathroom.

I've been lurking this forum daily for over a month, avidly searching for specific info and am still somewhat confused on which products to use.

Long story short:
1942 cape cod (balloon framed)
Water damage to the original floor was never repaired, just more underlayment! It was time for the pink and beige tile to go.
I will call the bathroom 7' x 7' to make things easy.

The original floor was 1" x 2 1/2" T&G plank on top of 2 x 10 x 16, 16" O.C.
I ripped the entire floor out, down to bare joists. Installed advantech 3/4 T&G. I put in a wall underneath the floor in the basement to shorten the span. the span is now 8'. Deflecto tells me i am in the L 1389 ish range without the sistering.

I cut back the studs on the two side walls (those rooms have been redone) Re framed those two walls, added top and bottom plates. I put in floor joists under those walls and sistered the majority of the others. The bottom plate is now sitting on the new plywood.

Warm wire, SLC, Ditra and stone tile still to go in. I plan on sheet rocking the room and installing kerdi around the tub and up to the ceilling and halfway around the room where the half tile wall will be.

So now to the questions.

1. Do I put the 1/2" ACX in before or after the sheet rock? I'm guessing after.
with weatherstripping around the room.

2. The room is low 3/8" on one side and pitching towards the doorway. So I have 3/8 plus the warmwire.
Which SLC?
A. Ardex-GS
B. Ardex Liquid Underlayment
C. Mapei Novoplan 2
D. Or something else? Looking for quality and ease of procurement.

I would also like a recommendation for thinset over and under ditra.

That's all i got for right now. Due to work I get about 10 hours a week to work on the bathroom, which is our only bathroom

Thanks
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Unread 11-01-2012, 02:15 PM   #2
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Welcome, Glen.

1. I presume this if a second layer of subflooring? You can install it whenever you like.

2. Lots of choices of SLC out there. I would recommend you us the one most convenient to purchase and that you follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter, including necessary preparation, priming, reinforcing, and minimum and maximum thickness.

Same with thinset mortars. Find what brand is readily available and use an appropriate mortar from that brand to comply with Schluter's recommendations for their Ditra. If you're installing over the plywood mentioned above, that'll require a modified (ANSI A118.11) mortar to install the Ditra and a dry-set (un-modified, A118.1) for installing the tile.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-01-2012, 02:17 PM   #3
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1) Either can be first.

2) Can't help. Ease of procurement would be on your end, anyway.

3) Schluter wants a modified thinset under Ditra if over a plywood floor, but an unmodified thinset if over concrete or SLC. They always want unmodified over Ditra. If you have access to Bostic products, get their Ditraset.
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Unread 11-01-2012, 02:59 PM   #4
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Novoplan 2 is available at lowes. Is there something better i should be looking at, or are all SLC basically the same. Looking to stay away from lathe. There is also Henry 555.

Ditraset I can use for the kerdi as well? I think garden state tile and avalaon tile carries it.

How does it compare to Uncoupling mat mortar from CBP? Available at HD.
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Last edited by Fatsix; 11-01-2012 at 03:18 PM.
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Unread 11-03-2012, 06:52 AM   #5
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Just want to double check.

Ditraset above and below the kerdi on drywall?

Ditra over SLC, Ditraset above and below?
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Unread 11-03-2012, 11:57 AM   #6
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Glen, you'll be a lot more comfortable with your installations if you'll visit the Schluter website and download both the Kerdi and Ditra installation handbooks.

Kerdi is always installed with un-modified thinset mortar (ANSI A118.1). Ditraset is in that category.

Ditra, see post #3.
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Unread 11-08-2012, 07:54 AM   #7
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I have been re-thinking my waterproofing plan. (I will still kerdi the tub alcove to the ceiling.) I know its overkill but, my first son is 6 and used to turn the bathroom into a swimming pool, I see no reason why the second one wouldn't do the same.

Instead of using kerdi on the half tile walls around the room and behind the sink. Would it be a better idea use a liquid waterproofing and crack isolation membrane?

Red guard, Hydro ban, malepastic or bostic goldplus? All the same?

Would I tape and plaster the drywall seams to the floor and roll on the liquid membrane? Or treat it the same as kerdi, thinset the seam on top of the membrane.

I still haven't selected a SLC yet. Although I am leaning twards mapei products. novoplan 2, mapelasic. Still debating kerabond or ditraset. Kerabond I can just run and get a bag, ditraset is a little more involved.
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Unread 11-08-2012, 08:19 AM   #8
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Glenn,

I agree with waterproofing and tiling everywhere as well as tying the wall waterproofing into the floor waterproofing.

Whichever waterproofing you pick will work well when installed properly. Each has its plusses and minuses.

Choose wisely grasshoppah.
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Unread 11-24-2012, 08:17 PM   #9
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Finally got to the floor.
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Last edited by Fatsix; 11-24-2012 at 08:25 PM.
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Unread 11-26-2012, 07:05 AM   #10
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I wound up using tec skil set self leveling underlayment from lowes. 4 bags on the first pour. I noticed I still had a low spot behind the toilet, on the right corner by the tub and a small area by the door where the dam leaked a little.

I primed and poured a second layer, 2 bags. It cured the issue behind the toilet and by the door. I still have a 1/4" low by 1' in dia spot by the corner of the tub. It's not nearly as bad as it was, the size of the low has shrunken considerably. I also have a mark where i pushed the slc with the float and it never re flowed (doh).

How can i rectify these two areas before putting down the ditra? The area around the tub corner concerns me the most because I need to level the tub. I will find out today how bad it is after I put the tub back in to measure for the drain.

FWIW. I started with the floor running 3/8" low towards the doorway from the back wall. That is now level and flat. Its the two non flat areas that concern me. And the weird part. The area where the tub is, was level in both directions so how I got the low right on the corner is annoying.
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Unread 11-26-2012, 07:20 AM   #11
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You can do another SLC pour to correct those low spots, or you can use a trowelable patching compound, whichever is easier.
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Unread 11-26-2012, 08:49 AM   #12
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Highlighted the low spots. First pour is in Red, Second pour is in Green.

I would like to use a patching compound or mortar and just screed it level with the rest of the floor. Tec Skil Set Fast setting patching compound is latex modified. Won't this interfere with my ditra install?
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Unread 11-26-2012, 09:05 AM   #13
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No. It will be dry before you install Ditra.
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Unread 11-26-2012, 09:06 AM   #14
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I'm concerned about the un modified (ditraset) not drying properly between the latex modified patch and the ditra.
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Unread 11-26-2012, 09:29 AM   #15
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Don't be. Unmodified thinset cures, not dries. It can cure under water.
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