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Unread 06-02-2012, 01:41 PM   #16
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When using a wet saw, get 2 scrap larger tiles and make a zero kerf as shown below
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Unread 06-02-2012, 04:08 PM   #17
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^ What Paul said ^

This allows for the finest glass cuts with minimal chipping on small glass tiles.
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Unread 06-04-2012, 08:51 AM   #18
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Which type of blade for wet saw?

When using a wet saw, what type of blade is best? I'm finding the thick little glass tiles aren't cutting as cleanly as I'd like.... no problem with the softer marble and travertine pieces. I've cut down the sheets into smaller sections, for sake of ease, which helps but I'm still getting some splintering on the glass pieces....
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Unread 06-04-2012, 12:16 PM   #19
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Any diamond blade made specifically for glass should work. I currently have the Felker GB-10 and the MK 215-GL. Both work fine.
And you definately do need to rig something up like Paul mentioned above to get your zero-clearance, narrow-kerf cuts that don't twist & fall into your cutting table slot. I use a single giant, thin piece of Black Absolute granite with it's own perpendicular rail. It makes a nice cutting "table".
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Unread 06-04-2012, 09:53 PM   #20
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Wrap the kerf in Blue tape prior to cutting and use a glass blade. You can get away without doing that if you go slow and put a rubber mat under with a kerf line as well

I had pro tilers working at my house on a project as I did not have time to do it and I had to cut the glass for them on my saw because their results were unacceptable. My wife does fused glass and I had a saw for a prior rehab that I did myself that we now use for her business. Glass cuts a lot different on a wet saw than everything else.
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Unread 06-04-2012, 11:08 PM   #21
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Smile

I haven't made myself a 'kerf' yet, but got a glass blade and that has made all the difference! Am totally happy with the cuts I'm getting on my little wet saw now! Thanks, all! This forum ROCKS!!!!!
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Unread 06-05-2012, 06:35 AM   #22
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Too much thinset

I have tiled a lot before, but when floating my current shower project, I ended up with several places where the thinset crept up to the surface, so much so that it looks as if I've already grouted. Is this a huge problem? Will the grout adhere in these areas, sticking TO the thinset? Or, should I scrape it out a bit, and if so, with what tool....???
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Unread 06-05-2012, 06:39 AM   #23
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You will need to scrape it out.
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Unread 06-05-2012, 06:57 AM   #24
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the sooner the better

As far as tools go you can use a razor knife, a grout saw, a grout removal head on a dremel/fein type tool. Be careful if the thinset is real hard and you go at it with a razor knife. Those razors can slip out of the joint real easy and scratch your tile, or cut you, etc. Its also easy to chip a tile edge/corner or cut into your waterproofing if you get too agressive.
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Unread 06-05-2012, 09:47 AM   #25
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Is this the galss mosaic backsplash project, Lynn? With the very narrow grout joints? If so, chances are the utility knife is one of the only tools that'll fit comfortably into those joints and, as previously indicted, the sooner you get started on it the better.
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Unread 06-05-2012, 01:04 PM   #26
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Ugh... yes, it's my glass/travertine/marble mosaic shower install. Even if I intend on using a matching (white) grout, I absolutely HAVE to scrape out the thinset that's come up between the tiles....??? How 'important' IS grout....???
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Unread 06-05-2012, 02:14 PM   #27
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OK, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered, Lynn. We can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

Grout is a good deal different formulation thaN thinset mortar and you're not gonna have the same texture or coloration and you're not gonna have the same maintenance results with the thinset you'd have with grout.

There are grout manufacturers (Laticrete is one) who make an additive to use with their grout that makes it suitable as a setting material and can be used in a "one step" setting process like you're encountering accidentally.

But it's your house and you can just use your thinset as grout if you wanna, but I think you're gonna be disappointed with the longer term results.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 06-05-2012, 09:39 PM   #28
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Laughing at your comment "that I'm encountering accidentally." I'll say....
Sorry about posting in multiple areas, but I can never find my old threads.
I also didn't know about being able to change the subject, and so my thinking was it was a new topic, so a new thread....
So many rules, and I can't fix my tiling dilemna right now, so anything more is too much to handle. LOL
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Unread 06-10-2012, 06:30 AM   #29
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Kerdi Need for Caulk?

O.K., last summer, I tiled my first shower. THAT was the area around a tub and was installed over concrete backerboard with RedGuard. I sealed the tile, grouted w/sanded grout in all areas except plane changes, and then used a color-matched, siliconized caulk to fill the areas where the plane changed (FYI, I live in AZ and spent HOURS searching for 100% silicone, color-matched caulk here, and eventually gave up, realizing the ONLY products sold here, including at specialty tile wholesalers, is "silicon-IZED" color-matched caulk). I used Spectrum's Siliconized Acrylic Latex caulk.

SO ~ THIS summer, I'm doing my Master stand-up shower, but it's a Kerdi. I have NOT been happy with the color difference between the grout and caulk in the hall shower I tiled last summer, so I'm really hoping that I can eliminate the need for caulk with this new, Kerdi shower....??? I'm hoping that, with Kerdi's magically-water-proof properties, the need for caulk at plane changes is unnecessary....???
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Unread 06-10-2012, 06:52 AM   #30
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Lynn, the caulk in your shower(s) has absolutely nothing at all to do with the waterproofing of the structure. It's strictly an aesthetic consideration, as are the tile and grout. The shower should be completely waterproofed before any of the coverings are installed.

You caulk the changes of plane to keep from having cracked grout in those places. Some tile installers will grout everything in a shower, including those plane changes, because of the look of the silicone caulking, but today it's possible to get 100 percent silicone caulking in both sanded and un-sanded formulations and even an unsanded caulk in a satin finish. And these in colors to very closely match your grout. One brand (EarthMasters) is made such that you mix it with your actual grout to get a near perfect color and texture match.

I would not be able to purchase any of these locally, either, but all are available online. Color Sil is the first that springs to mind. There are others.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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