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Unread 05-09-2021, 02:24 PM   #31
cx
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I would want my slope to start in the farthest corner and slope a minimum of 1/4" per foot from there. Get that in whatever manner seems appropriate to your situation. You don't want any level spots in the corners to allow water to pool.

If you can get a 3/4" contact between pipe and drain I would be content to have it slightly canted on the pipe to achieve a level drain. I might even live with a "small" 3/4."

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 05-18-2021, 02:18 PM   #32
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What product to Skimcoat Durock to flatten?

I got the drain dead level and made a mud bed that seems to be nicely pitched.

Now, one of my walls is plumb and flat well within TCNA standards. The other is not. (Oddly, it has some high spots that are between the studs in some places, so it is not tenting.) I looked through this site and others so I know the best thing to do is remove the Durock and fix the studs. That is not going to happen, so I was planning to skimcoat it. Worst spot is less than 1/2", other problem spots are 1/4" or less.

I saw at least one chat room advice that said do not use thinset to flatten. So what should I use? Mapei concrete patch? Ardex featheredge? Many of the concrete patches and other products talk about leveling floors, not flattening walls.

Thanks in advance.
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Unread 05-18-2021, 03:56 PM   #33
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Here is an option for walls. Mapei Planitop 330fast

https://cdnmedia.mapei.com/docs/libr...rsn=bd68fe31_0
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Unread 05-19-2021, 02:47 PM   #34
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Thanks Jason. I can't seem to find Planitop in my area. Would Planipatch suffice?

A Quikrete rep said FastPatch repair mortar would be fine to level a few low spots, but suggested Finish Coat stucco or QUIKWALL Surface Bonding Cement instead if skimcoating the whole wall. Of course, I can't find the latter two products in my area either.
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Unread 05-21-2021, 07:34 PM   #35
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Skim Coat Wall

Last call for any other suggestions for skim coat product to flatten wall backer board before I go buy whatever I can find at the Big Box store tomorrow please! On further review, I think I only need to raise the left and right sides of a 40 inch span by 1/8" to 3/16" to get flat enough. I'll use 1/8" screed sticks on the sides and feather to the middle "hump."
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Unread 05-22-2021, 09:54 AM   #36
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One of your home centers will have Henry 549 "FeatherFinish."

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 06-24-2021, 12:01 PM   #37
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transition from 12x24 field tile to 2x2 shower tile with glass floor rails

So my Vigo "frameless" shower enclosure actually has three floor rails. I'm actually OK with it as it should help keep water inside the curbless shower. (See first picture.)

I was originally planning to set the rails to straddle over the transition between 12x24 field tiles and the 2x2 shower pan tiles for aesthetics. (See second pic.) This way can cover small cutting/measuring imperfections and look the cleanest. However, this would set the screws through the grout line.

Second thought is the set the rails aligned to edge of the 12x24s. (See third pic.) I am wondering if drilling holes so close to the edge may be more likely crack the tiles. Also, these 12x24s will all be cut, not factory edge, and I am not certain that my cutting/measuring skills are so good that I can achieve that.

Third thought is to set the rails around a quarter- or half-inch back from the transition joint. This would make siliconing easier I guess and allow for less than laser perfect cutting/measuring, but maybe doesn't look as pleasing.

I suppose a fourth option is to set the rails flush with or slightly back from the last 2x2s but I imagine that won't look so good from the outside.

Anyone care to make a suggestion or describe any pro/cons from a functional point of view? (And don't say "whatever Mrs. Mogli wants;" She just wants it done LOL!)
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Unread 06-26-2021, 07:43 AM   #38
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Mogli,

Unless I'm missing something, if the glass panels for that enclosure are already precut you don't have an option. If you move the tracks for the end panels outward the door opening gets wider, move them inward and it get narrower. Perhaps there's some adjustability in that enclosure that I don't know about.

Aside from the above. If you install the tracks on the sloped shower floor tile they will be tilted inward, which will cause the panels to want to also tilt inward. If you screw the tracks down they aren't going to want to move, and you'd probably not want to force them to. Maybe there's enough flexibility in the channel to glass fit to tilt the panels plumb.

I'd strive to install them as close to the transition grout line as possible.
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Unread 06-27-2021, 03:10 PM   #39
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Thanks for responding Dan. The tiles were not cut or laid yet when I asked. As you noted, the glass and rails have to be where they have to be. I was asking where to cut and put the tiles in relation to that. I went with option #3 today. Once the mortar sets, I'll dry fit the rails and see if I got it right
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Unread 07-01-2021, 03:16 PM   #40
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Hi Mogli,
Just a random anecdotal comment. Take it with a grain of salt. If that U-channel/rail of yours is available in actual stainless steel, I'd opt for that. And I am not talking about the finish but the material here. Solid stainless steel. Most likely, these channels are aluminum. I have had issues with aluminum in the past, having seen corrosion first-hand from mineral buildup against it. It will take some time, but it might happen if your water is rich in (certain) minerals. It's all about water chemistry, I suppose. Stainless steel is harder to cut and a bit costlier. However, it is superior to aluminum in all other possible ways, in particular when prolonged contact with water is involved. Again, this might just be a problem for a few unlucky fellows such as myself.
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Unread 07-15-2021, 09:58 AM   #41
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Is the "gap" between tile and wall an air gap?

I'm getting ready to tile the shower floor with 2x2s now. I will leave a small gap where they meet the walls to allow for expansion, and then the 24x48 wall tiles will overhang the floor tiles. Then I'll caulk.

Should that gap be truly an air gap, or can/should it be filled with mortar, grout, or caulk? Same question for change in plane at the walls I guess.

(Wolfgang, the Vigo shower kit is 304 stainless steel.)
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Unread 07-15-2021, 02:16 PM   #42
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That is a movement accommodation joint. In some applications it could be left open, but in a shower that's not practical and the joint should be filled with a flexible sealant. In the vernacular, caulk. Technically, though, it must be a sealant.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-17-2021, 06:47 AM   #43
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What you don't want to do, Mogli, is pump the gaps full of caulk. IOW, you don't want the small gaps you left for expansion to be full of caulk (or anything else for that matter). You only need enough caulk (100% silicone) to create a good seal.
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Unread 08-04-2021, 01:37 PM   #44
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Is SpectraLock1 too new?

Well things are going along fantastically and I'll be ready to grout soon.

I was looking at Laticrete's new Spectralock1 ready-mixed polymer grout and it seems like a great product for for this DIYer. It claims to have all the benefits of the regular two-part Spectralock but without having to worry about pot time. However, it only came out a year ago so it hasn't stood the test of time yet.

Just wondering what the experts think of this product?

Thanks!
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Unread 08-07-2021, 09:04 AM   #45
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There was a running thread on that grout in the forum, Mogli, just do a search on it if you've already done so. I seem to recall there was some good feedback regarding application, but of course nothing on longevity.
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