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Unread 07-12-2021, 03:36 PM   #16
A440
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Framless Shower door planning.

Thanks, CX for the advice.
Another question for the group...
We are going to have a 6" wide sill for frameless shower doors (~40" wide) set on the Kerdi 4 1/2" curb. I understand I need studs to support the hinge side of the door and the glass panel. Is there a requirement to have the wall go past the curb sill or can the edge of the sill be flush with the shower walls?
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Unread 07-12-2021, 05:41 PM   #17
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I like the tile wall to finish at the outside edge of the curb (slab). But, you can have it go several inches past if you want. I like the glass to be in the middle of the curb.
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Unread 07-14-2021, 05:31 PM   #18
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Kerdi Curb and existing floor tile

I watched a video on a subscription site (for bathroom remodel) where they cut the Kerdi curb to fit over an existing tile floor. The other part of the curb sat on the subfloor and they used Kerdi fix to attach the curb to the tile.
Has anyone done this method and is it okay to do?
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Unread 07-14-2021, 06:27 PM   #19
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That was done for a new shower, Tim?
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Unread 07-15-2021, 04:44 AM   #20
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Yes. Here is the link to the video. You'll want to start around 17 minutes mark to view where he cuts the curb to the existing tile.
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Unread 07-15-2021, 07:09 AM   #21
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He's properly waterproofed the curb after installation, Tim, so I see no problem at all with his installation.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-15-2021, 07:56 AM   #22
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Great! Thanks and I really appreciate all your help. I'm sure I'll be asking some more as we go alone with the remodel.
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Unread 07-16-2021, 05:11 AM   #23
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Tiling pros...what would you recommend to do at these two places?

As our demo progressed, we decided to take out a 3/4 wall and do all glass on two sides of the shower. I could use your advice on how the pros would finish two sides of the shower.
In the first photo (next to the vanity) my wife would like shiplap to run behind the vanity and meet up with the tile that will have a 90 degree full glass panel (no door). I'm not sure if I sure use a Schluter Edge or if I can just run the shiplap up to the tile edge and use a piece of trim that will go over the shiplap. Or is it just personal preference?
In the second and third photos, the tiled wall will meet a corner for the glass door and panel. There is about 3" of wall space at the 90 degree turn that leads to the wall with the light switch. Here I plan on ripping a piece of trim that matches the trim for the shiplap wall in lieu of drywall. Again, I'm not sure if I should use a Schluter edge, or if I can just cover the edge with the trim.
What would the pros recommend?
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Unread 07-17-2021, 07:21 AM   #24
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For the shiplap wall, Tim, I think how you finish the end of the tile might be dictated by how thick the shiplap is. IOW, you don't want the cut ends of the wood to be proud of the edge of whatever you use to finish then end of the tile, you'd be able to see that thru the glass and, IMO, I don't think it'll look tidy. Adding to your challenge is that narrow strip of drywall you need to replace. After taping and mudding you're going to have at least a 1/16" hump and, being so close to the where the tile ends, the shiplap isn't going to bend.

On the other end I would want to face the short side with drywall, but the light switch and the proximity of the door casing will make taping and mudding that skinny piece a challenge. I suppose you use shiplap there too, run the tile to the edge, and use a piece of L molding to hide the edges.
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Unread 07-17-2021, 09:20 AM   #25
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Thanks Dan. I should have mentioned that the drywall along the vanity wall is coming out and I will be installing the shiplap directly to the studs and covering the ends with trim.
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Unread 07-17-2021, 09:24 AM   #26
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Minimum height of Kerdi curb?

What is the minimum height of the Kerdi curb? I'd like to cut it down from its 6" height, but not sure how low I can go to support a 3/4"x6" quartz sill that will sit on top. Glass doors will also sit on top of the sill, but also hinges to the studs in the wall.
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Unread 07-17-2021, 10:55 AM   #27
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Kerdi fix and metal?

I have a very small section of subfloor that has a metal plate (stud protector type) screwed into the subfloor (see photo) . The plate is covering a small section of subfloor that had some old dry rot and replacing the subfloor at this area would have been problematic. The plate tucks under one of the shower walls. My Kerdi curb (outlined in the photo) will touch this plate. I don't think thinset will bond to metal. Would it be acceptable to use Kerdi fix in this little section to attach the curb in lieu of thinset? The curb will be cut to accommodate for existing floor tile. Kerdi fix will be used there as well.
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Unread 07-17-2021, 11:31 AM   #28
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My unscientific testing indicates that would be fine, Tim.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-17-2021, 12:41 PM   #29
A440
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Thanks CX.
I got to thinking if I have the time, why not do it with wood. So, I went ahead and patched it with some 3/4" plywood. Seems to be level and doesn't give any when I push on it.
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Unread 07-19-2021, 02:44 PM   #30
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How to cut and join two 6" wide by 3/4" thick curb sills?

I have two 6" wide by 3/4" thick curb sills that I would like to butt joint at an outside corner. They will be laying on Kerdi curbs. I have two questions relating to their installation. I don't want to try and do a 45 degree miter.
1- What is the best way to make a watertight seal between them?
2- I need to cut both down to length to fit the curbs. Can a 9" tile saw (Harbor Freight variety) handle the 3/4" thickness, or do I need to rent something more heavy duty?
Thanks!
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