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Unread 03-31-2021, 08:45 AM   #61
Sclib
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Thumbs up Thanks CX!!

Plan was always to tape, fill all joints, and waterproof all walls with a liquid membrane. I will proceed forward trying to use as few 11” strips as possible.

Also, thanks for the input on curb and deck order.

Another question for CX and Davy.....

I switched brands of pre-mixed dry pack from Sakrete to a brand called Paragon (due to Sakrete unreasonable recommendation of setting tile within 24 hrs of completing mud bed or wait 28 days!!!!) Paragon is a local AZ Company. Their mix is 4:1. I noticed in another recent thread that CX is reccommending 5:1 for the top mud bed. I realize this is a personal preference thing but, will the 5:1 mix give me a MUCH better result on top bed? I can throw more sand in this pre mix if necessary to get the best results. Trying to follow the rules.....just need to know real importance of 5:1 on top bed.

Stay safe out there!!!
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Unread 04-01-2021, 01:35 PM   #62
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Changed mind again....doing curb first.

After pondering it a little more, I’m back to doing the curb first. Hopefully mortar on today or tomorrow. I installed lath yesterday and did another leak test last night....all is good!!! I did use narrow piece of duct tape on edge of expanded lath before installing (don’t trust myself with sharp objects after spending so much time with those dam corners....put tape on so easy to remove.....will remove tape prior to mudding curb).

Once curb is in, I will proceed with re arranging CBU so larger pieces at bottom.

I do have a question that is a little out of order but relates to top mud bed and floor tile size....wanted to ask before top mud bed which might happen as soon as this weekend.

The tile we picked for shower floor is a 3x3 (aprox) hexagon aprox 6/16” thick.
Is this tile going to be difficult to install on sloped floor (more difficult that say a 2x2” of same hexagon shape?). I understand extra cuts for wall edges as opposed to some other shapes, but really just wondering about the 3” size and how it will slope with floor?

Any comments on this before I install top mud deck and drain would be appreciated.

Thank you and be safe out there!!
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Unread 04-01-2021, 06:54 PM   #63
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Hi Scott. 5 to 1 mix is what we've used for as long as I can remember. It's easy to work with and will get plenty hard. Don't expect it to get as hard as your driveway because it won't. But, your driveway won't absorb water like you need your shower mud to do. When I buy 4 to 1 mud, I add a little sand to it. I don't know how much because I've never measured it. Even if you added a half gallon container filled with sand to a 50lb bag of 4 to 1, it will help it work better. I like the All purpose sand from HD.

The 3 inch hex will work fine for the shower floor.

Make sure and redo the cement board before you mud the shower floor. That way the mud will lock the cement board in at the bottom.
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Unread 04-01-2021, 09:18 PM   #64
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Curb done!!! Thanks Davy!!!

Curb is in and I’m pretty happy with results considering its my first curb (a lot of firsts with this project). Walls and top are aprox 1/2” thick (thanks for the thickness advice CX!!). Walls are relatively plane but noticed a small dip on the interior facing curb wall when I went back out and looked at it tonight. Thinking I can work around this when setting tile but will post a pic prior to tile setting.....in case it needs to be filled prior to tile. Top slopes into shower nicely as did the 2x4s, liner and lath.

Thanks Davy for the feedback on the 3” hex and 5:1 mix!!!! And yes, plan is to reconfigure the CBU with larger pieces on the bottom.....and drop them down close to liner to embed them in top mud bed.

Praying all DIY projects and Paid Gigs are turning out as planned!!

Stay safe out there!!!
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Last edited by Sclib; 04-01-2021 at 09:18 PM. Reason: Missed word
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Unread 04-03-2021, 12:48 PM   #65
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CBU panels re arranged...Gap and screw Question.

Larger CBU panels installed on lower sections yesterday.

Was paying more attention to making sure things were in plane (forgot I had to do some shimming on first go round so some of that had to be re done also)
and forgot to make sure boards were pushed together all the way. Ended up with 1/8” gap across back wall and 1/4” shrinking to 1/8” on niche wall (see pic).

Question....can I thinset and alkali resistant tape these and move on?

I have read that Durock used to recommend 1/8” gap between boards but now install instructions read “Fit ends and edges of panels closely but not forced together”. Just looking for some real life experience with thinset and tape at these joints. Obviously don’t really want to pull these panels again to take up this small gap.

Second question is in regard to screw placement at the bottom of the panels. I know I can’t put screws at bottom of panels but.....how high off liner floor “and curb” should I have the last/lowest screw? I stopped at a “very conservative” roughly 11”-12” above liner floor on side walls and 8” above curb. I do have a little flaring at bottom of right side (Non shower head) wall. Another screw down lower would take care of a lot of this and deck mud will take care of the rest (Deck mud might even take care of all of it). Logically, when I think about it, I should be able to go maybe 4” above curb and 6” or 7” above liner floor with last screw? NEED Input please.

Inside face of curb is currently 3 1/2” high... outside face is 5” high.

When looking at picture, the holes in CBU you see on back wall down low near liner are just holes from when that board was up higher. There were never any screws placed in those holes after board was re located down low to its current position. Those will be filled with thinset prior to RedGard.

As always, thanks in advance for any input.

Stay safe out there!!!
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Unread 04-03-2021, 02:32 PM   #66
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The requirement is to have no mechanical fastener penetration in the shower pan liner below a height of 2" above the finished curb top. The liner itself is to rise 6" above the floor or 3" above the finished curb top, whichever is higher.

Don't know where the finished curb top will be when you install the liner? Join the crowd. Just one of the things I don't understand about that particular code section. Just make sure your fasteners are 2" above the waterproof portion of your curb and I think you'll be fine. See my warranty information below.

As for the fit of your CBU panels, you clearly did not comply with product manufacturer's instructions. Will that adversely affect your installation? I dunno. Other manufacturers require a gap between their panels, but you didn't use their products. Unless you wanna start over, I'd recommend you carefully fill and tape those joints with the appropriate tape and thinset mortar.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-03-2021, 03:33 PM   #67
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Thanks CX!! Anybody else on the CBU Gap?

Thanks CX. That’s good info on the fasteners. Sounds like I can install one more screw lower than what I have now (following your suggested, non-official but real world guidelines). This will ensure, along with weight of top mud deck pushing against bottom of panels, that my walls will be in plane at bottom.

Anyone else care to weigh in on CBU gaps? I like CXs answer, just wondering if anyone has any real life horror stories from filling 1/4” but mainly 1/8” gaps with thinset and tape? As long as I believe (in my mind) that there is a low probability of tiles popping off the walls or severe grout joint cracks due to these gaps (using 12”x24” tiles and 1/8” grout joints), I will go forward taping and filling gaps as-is after I install the top mud deck.

Stay safe out there and know that all of your help is invaluable!!!
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Unread 04-05-2021, 12:10 PM   #68
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Called USG on 1/4” gap...moving forward.

So, as a precaution, I called USG (Durock) technical support this morning and asked about the 1/4” gap between panels. They asked several questions (Wall installation? shower install? over wood studs?) and then told me the 1/4” was ok to tape and mud over Said any larger than 1/4” could be an issue. Dodged a bullet!! Just posting this as an FYI for anyone down the road who might have the same issue.

Have a few unrelated things going this week but still hoping to get the top bed done by the end of the week.

Stay safe out there!!!
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Unread 04-17-2021, 07:12 PM   #69
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Top mud bed finally!

Finally getting to the top mud bed tomorrow after a 2 week layoff (life gets in the way sometimes).

I do have a question.....

I DON’T plan on tiling the floor the day after I do the top bed. Is there anything I need to do to top bed (besides protect it somewhat) if I don’t tile the floor for a week or so? I only ask because I have read some instances where people cover it with plastic sheeting if they aren’t going to tile floor right away. Something about holding the moisture in the bed while it cures? (Remember I am in Southern AZ and it is getting warm around here with very little humidity).

I do plan on tiling floor before walls but just not sure what timing will be.

Need guidance as usual.

Thanks and be safe out there!!!
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Unread 04-17-2021, 09:09 PM   #70
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I would strongly recommend you cover the new mortar bed with polyethylene sheeting or similar.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-18-2021, 08:20 AM   #71
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Plastic Sheeting

Quote:
Originally Posted by cx
I would strongly recommend you cover the new mortar bed with polyethylene sheeting or similar.
“Nuff said” thanks CX. I will plan on leaving the sheeting on for about a week or until I get ready to tile floor, whichever is sooner.

Stay safe out there!!!
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Unread 04-18-2021, 08:52 AM   #72
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As ol' Martha would say, "This is a good thing."
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Unread 04-18-2021, 01:37 PM   #73
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Top bed done!!!

“Got er done”. Took me about 3 hours from set up to clean up. I took a little more time with this top bed and took more time with the finishing trowel to make it a little prettier (not that my preslope wasn’t a beauty queen but you get my point).

Placed gravel around the lower flange and weep holes and packed bed mud around that first. Then dumped mud and proceeded to build bed as I’ve been taught.

Those pock marks you may or may not see in the finish are not really there....just the way the camera took pics in the areas that were a little darker or grainier maybe? .....I dunno....but it’s pretty dang smooth. Also, so I don’t get a tounge lashing, just a reminder that screw holes you see down low in rear wall panel were there prior to me dropping that panel down to its current position. There are no screws penetrating the liner down that low. I will mortar those when everything else gets mortar and tape.....next step.

I did have one issue that hung me up a little. Thought I had where slope meets drain meets tile figured out in advance. But, in the course of working the mud, I kinda forgot about the tile to drain transition. I originally sloped everything to top of drain like preslope, then realized drain needed to set a little higher to accommodate for tile. Luckily, I had generously sloped the bed (over 3/4” in 2’) plenty of slope to accommodate the mid course correction. I spun the drain up 1 full turn, and then did a minor secondary slope around the drain at about a 10”-12” radius (hope that makes sense). Top of floor tiles will end up just slightly above the drain.

Everything still slopes nicely to the drain, with the final 10” getting an extra 1/8” coming in just below the drain to accommodate tile height. Layed a few tiles out and up from the drain and looks like it should transition smoothly up and away from drain without any lippage. I do have a backup plan if it looks funny when I do the floor layout......I can switch to a smaller floor tile and should be able to eliminate any lippage. Don’t think I’m going to need to go that far.

CX....as far as putting down the plastic sheeting, should I let the mud dry for a few hours or put the plastic down right away? Will wait for your words of wisdom on that one

Stay safe out there!
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Unread 04-18-2021, 01:54 PM   #74
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Put the plastic down immediately. You don't want the mud to dry at all, you want it to cure.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-18-2021, 03:14 PM   #75
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Thumbs up Curing the top bed!! Thanks CX!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by cx
Put the plastic down immediately. You don't want the mud to dry at all, you want it to cure.
Done and done!!! Triple taped.

Top bed “gettin its cure on”.

CX you da man!!!!!!

Stay safe out there!!
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