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Old 09-01-2018, 09:40 PM   #1
diy-faq
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G and J's Master Bath redo

Hello folks, starting our master bath redo. Since I received my Schluter cert (snuck in to their two day seminar ) I'm set to start. Plans are Schluter 32x60 offset, kerdi board walls, 12 x 28 niche. First question is two walls are exterior walls and already have kraft paper faced insulation, with kerdi board is it ok to leave or should i replace with unfaced?

Couple other observations so far are: floor is nice and flat, but the studs aren't too plumb.
Whats easier; sistering the studs plumb or wet shimming kerdi boards...or try drywall shims?

Rest of the bath project includes Dirta XL and tiled floor that runs into the closet. Carerra marble vanity top (done).

Some tile experience: kitchen floor, hall floor, kitchen backsplash, and 1/2 bath floor and half wall.

Thanks!
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Old 09-01-2018, 10:05 PM   #2
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Disclaimer I have only used the foam boards twice. But personally think wet shimming is better all around. The lumber at the box stores are terrible. So picking through a pile poop to try to find a ring of gold is time consuming.

The times I have wet shimed the walls weren't that had but they were not flat, or square. So I cut the back of the board turned it at a 90° and ran it past the corner making a perfect 90°turn (credit Paul Houston remodeler for that trick).


I put the thinset right on the studs. It worked pretty good. But now I am thinking it would be better to lay your board flat and mark the studs on the board and apply the thinset on the board. Place the board and tap her in to place. Here is something no one warned me about. When you wet shim you make the cavity of the wall deeper. The preformed niches are built to go in to the pocket of the wall. However you have just made that cavity deeper. Keep that in mind when you place your preformed niches you may need to do something in those stud bays
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Old 09-02-2018, 03:48 PM   #3
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I think the faced insulation is probably ok. Your Kerdi board/tile assembly will be most likely be airtight and won't let moisture migrate into that cavity from the inside. What's your climate zone?

If in doubt, you could probably make a couple of cuts into the Kraft paper. But if the insulation is otherwise good, I wouldn't replace it unless you want to upgrade to something better like foam.
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Old 09-02-2018, 07:06 PM   #4
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I like that 90° idea...he's pretty cleaver that Paul! Looking things over a little closer today i think if i can locate some drywall shims i'll be set, nothing is super bad.

In CT so we get the hots and the cold. I was thinking of switching to the Roxul insulation.
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Old 09-03-2018, 06:00 PM   #5
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Next question: my 60" wall is an exterior wall so its 2x6 and one span is 24", the others are 16" or less than 16" due to the adjoining walls. I'm using 5/8 kerdi to match the drywall and i know i need at least 16". Can i run horizontal 2x4 bracing in that 24" span or should i add a vertical 2x6 in the middle of the 24" span?

Thanks.
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Old 09-03-2018, 06:48 PM   #6
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I would defeat the kraft paper by making several slits to the paper. Quick and easy.

I don't think it'll make much difference on which way to close the span. But I'd prefer adding a vertical member to keep your wet shimming simple. But I'd make it a 2x4 instead so that insulation can be put between it and the outside wall.

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Old 09-13-2018, 07:23 PM   #7
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Can I wet shim with Laticrete Glass Tile thinset? Or is LFT the best option? Have a half bag of glass tile thinset, and i bought a bag of LFT in case that's the best. Thanks.
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Old 09-19-2018, 08:22 AM   #8
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Hi Glen,
Quote:
Can I wet shim with Laticrete Glass Tile thinset? Or is LFT the best option? Have a half bag of glass tile thinset, and i bought a bag of LFT in case that's the best. Thanks.
LATICRETE does not endorse wet shimming as it's not an industry accepted method. When you screw the boards onto the studs it squeezes all of the wet thin set out from between the studs and the board. This excess then falls onto the floor inside the wall where it can collect moisture, trap dirt and cause unusual noises if some that may be hanging on the studs all of a sudden falls to the ground.

We'd recommend actual wood shims if you are trying to level a wall.
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Old 09-19-2018, 09:16 AM   #9
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Glen, since you did the workshop, you probably are already familiar with this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nebHq8N2i0Y

My layman's thinking would be that a highly modified mortar (such as a glass tile mortar) is the best for wet shimming as it gives the most strength. I'd probably mix it on the pasty end of consistency to minimize shrinkage.

I am not too familiar with industry standards but the fact that Schluter made a video about it gives me confidence that it might work just fine.
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Old 09-19-2018, 09:25 AM   #10
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Huh, I never knew Schluter endorsed this method......
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Old 09-19-2018, 10:37 AM   #11
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Laticrete Glass Tile thinset worked great. I mixed it on the dry side.

Neglecting the two obvious inside corners I have one seam, that seam will get kerdi-band top to bottom. As far as covering the screw/washers is there any advantage (aside from time) to just Kerdi-banding the entire row instead of individual 5" squares.
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Old 10-03-2018, 07:07 AM   #12
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flood test question

Good morning, I hate asking stupid questions, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

I'm preparing (still curing) for my water/flood test and I'm wondering to what depth I need to fill my shower floor? I have the Kerdi Board pre-made curb that has 5" Kerdi band (2.5" on the pan and 2.5" up the curb). I see some folks that fill close to the top of the curb and some just below the top the top of the 2.5" band.

Thanks.
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Old 10-03-2018, 07:21 AM   #13
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Won't matter too much Glen, except to the inspector. Fill it so there's a couple of inches in depth at the drain. Use a stack of quarters, or anything really that won't absorb water, and fill it to the top of that o you'll have a visual. Might consider doing the same with a deep baking pan to use as a control for evaporation.
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Old 10-06-2018, 07:00 PM   #14
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In progress

Water added, no sleep tonight! I know, watching it won't help one bit...just want to pull the plug if i see water outside the pan.

Inflatable plug has been in all day with a little bit of water above it, no loss via plug. Waiting 1 hour before I leave my mark to let the thinset left behind to get a drink first...sound like I'm on track?

Oh, have a test pan on the vanity marked as well.
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Old 10-07-2018, 09:54 AM   #15
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I like using the stack of quarters method. You can do this in addition to marking the side

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