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Old 08-20-2018, 09:28 PM   #1
edc901
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5x10 bathroom remodel - using Kerdi

Hello all! I'm in the midst of my first remodel. (demoing and leveling subfloor.)

I figure I'll start a thread and add to it as I go? It seems the thing to do here.

Standard 5x10 bathroom. Nothing too fancy, will be doing a Kerdi 32x60 pan and using kerdiboards.

I have two questions.

1) What clearance is needed for the drain? My bathroom is on 2x10 joists 12" o.c. Preliminary measuring of where the drain will end of seems like it may be close to the joist, I have a couple inches to spare. I was just concerned if the drain may end up too close will it affect anything?

2) There isn't too much talk about Dilex-EKE... I know color matched silicone is much cheaper and easier, but I liked the idea of the EKE in the corners. Has anyone good experience using this?
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Old 08-20-2018, 10:12 PM   #2
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You can download the diagram of the Kerdi drain that should give you an idea if the funnel part will fit or not. If I remember, you put a 5" diameter hole in the subflooring for it, which would indicate about 2.5" from the center to the nearest joist.

The Dilex profiles work fine. In addition to the movement accommodation the pocket also help hide one edge. Be aware that for things to work out well, you do need to ensure you're corners are both square and plumb.
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Old 08-28-2018, 06:43 PM   #3
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Will a 2ft 1.5" vertical section of drain be a bottleneck?


I'm trying to avoid cutting another wall open (living room wall below bathroom) and upsetting the Mrs.

The bathroom is upstairs, then the drain goes vertical 2 feet and connects back into the main stack drain.

I can easily do the 2" drain from the shower to the vertical section. I'm just wondering if I can get away with it? If I need to cut the wall open I will... but ugh...
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Old 08-28-2018, 08:22 PM   #4
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Welcome, Matt.

Hate to try to answer that without a photo or drawing, but I can tell you the only place you can legitimately reduce from your 2" drain to a smaller drain line is immediately below the drain. As in putting a 2"x1 1/2" reducer into the drain opening and installing that onto a 1 1/2" riser. Anywhere downstream of that a reduction in drain pipe size is a no-no.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 08-28-2018, 09:19 PM   #5
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If your shower is a human car wash...maybe the 1.5" will be a bottle neck...otherwise, probably not. Generally, only when replacing a tub/shower with a shower and it would take major teardown to make the existing 1.5" line become 2" or bigger, will a 1.5" drain be allowed in the USA for a shower. IOW, on new or remodels, with a few exceptions, you need a 2" line or larger.
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Old 08-30-2018, 09:15 PM   #6
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I just went ahead and cut a hole replaced the T on the stack with one that accepts 2". Easy cheesy.

Next question! I think I should be good but like to verify. I removed and repaired my subfloor and wanted room to move toilet and drain. I had to level it anyways so this was easy.

Right now it's as even and level as I'm going to get it.


Joists are 2x10s with 12" OC. I should be good to go with the just3/4 plywood, correct? It feels solid with be bouncing on it. I'll be using Ditra on top.
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Old 08-30-2018, 09:24 PM   #7
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The 12" joist centers makes the 3/4" subflooring a good bet. Can't tell anything about your joist structure without knowing what you've got for joists and the unsupported span.
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Old 09-13-2018, 07:49 PM   #8
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I know this has been asked before, but I like to triple check.


I've fudged the numbers as much as I can fudge on the toilet rough-in.

11 1/16" is what I got (from the finished drywall.)

I'd rather not go down to a 10" rough in toilet because of selection and availability. Some guys have successfully shoved a 12" rough in toilet into an 11" space. Thoughts?
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Old 09-13-2018, 08:11 PM   #9
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There may be some toilets that will allow you to get away with that, Matt, but I guarantee there are some that won't.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 09-13-2018, 08:12 PM   #10
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I will answer this only because I just did this twice. With a 12" Center to drywall ,my stock American Standard Champion has almost 2" from tank lid to wall.(Tightest spot).
So yes, It would not scare me at all.
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Old 09-13-2018, 08:19 PM   #11
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I have a 11 in rough-in and I didn't risk it. I went with the 10-in model. American Standard makes one that's pretty nice (I think mine is the "Cadet" model) and doesn't really feel petite. But I also have a small bathroom and appreciate the slightly smaller overall size of the loo.

If you can measure it in the store or can return it without hassle and don't mind possible frustration, go ahead and try some 12 in models. You might also get good answers on the Terry Love plumbing forum.
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:30 PM   #12
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You have to look at the spec sheets VERY carefully...any one worth its salt will show the nominal (note, nominal values can vary a little piece to piece, but generally are worst cases) sizes. Also note that because of the slots in the flange (unless you're using the narrow slots of a CI flange) will allow some fudging forward/backward when placing the bolts with the typically oversized holes in the toilet. This will usually give you at least 1/4" slop you can move the toilet. The horn on the toilet is usually in the 2-5/8" OD or so, give or take a bit, and the minimum hole in the flange is 3", so offsetting the toilet slightly will still let stuff fall directly down into it.

FWIW, most toilets only have one bowl, and to get a 10 or 14" version will change the depth of the tank...the actual bowl will project into the room more than it needs to. Toto sells some toilets that use a proprietary adapter they call the UniFit...this allows exactly the same toilet to fit on either a 12" (stock), 10 or 14" (optional extra) Unifit...it leaves the same toilet sitting exactly the same distance from the wall with any of those standard offsets with the proper UniFit adapter. Toto tends to have the lowest defect rate in the industry. Their selling prices are usually a lot lower than the suggested one.

The 'spare' distance behind a toilet can vary anywhere from zero to over 2", so you really have to view the spec sheets. Those Toto models that use the Unifit tend to have 3/4" space behind them, so, along with fudging the location a bit, a Toto with the stock UniFit, any of those will work on your slightly over 11" flange. Make sure that your wall is actually plumb - if it leans in, there will be less room as you go up.
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Old 09-14-2018, 07:50 AM   #13
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An offset flange could also be used.
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Old 09-14-2018, 04:07 PM   #14
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Not all offset flanges are created equal. Some will work quite well, some are a clog waiting to happen. You want one that has an offset with a full diameter opening, not one with sort of a shelf with an off center outlet. Not much use if the thing is already installed, though, as it's often a pain to cut out the old to install a new one.
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Old 09-26-2018, 05:52 PM   #15
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Finally putting up the sheetrock in the bathroom and was about to start on the side wall then realized, Hey! I may want to add in a 2x4 to support the future glass enclosure.

What's the best way to face it? I figure doing it like a standard wall stud give a minimal area and hope to hit the target. Perpendicular to the other studs seems like that's usually the answer but does it need more support? horizontal blocking behind?

Pictures help, I'm a visual learner.


EDIT: Seems I found the answer in another post.. False alarm, guys recommend two or three studs there.
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