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Old 08-29-2018, 08:19 AM   #46
mlawler626
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Would it be ok to use some if my Bostik SL200 Self-Leveler (mixed thicker) to use for the pre-pitch bed (over the goof-proof pre-pitch sticks)... since it can handle a feathered-edge at the drain flange?
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Old 09-15-2018, 03:21 PM   #47
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Ok... while the self-leveler can be worked to a feather-edge... it is very difficult to work with when you mix it thicker-- worse than anything I can think of... but I got `er done... not perfect, but good enough.

Now I plan to coat it and the 2x10 perimeter with HydraSeal (similar to RedGuard).
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Old 09-15-2018, 03:35 PM   #48
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Do you have a link to Hydraseal?
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Old 09-15-2018, 06:12 PM   #49
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@Davy,

http://www.proflex.us/wordpress/prod...es/hydra-seal/
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Old 09-15-2018, 06:26 PM   #50
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What kind of receptor are you attempting here? Are you using a liner?
Hydraseal doesn't say anything about being used on wood, why are you wanting to put it on the 2x10 perimeter?
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Old 09-15-2018, 06:55 PM   #51
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Suitable surfaces. Cement, Concrete, Cured Mortar Beds, Cement Backer Board. No mention of dimensional lumber.

I can't for the life of figure out where you're going with this installation.
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Old 09-15-2018, 07:13 PM   #52
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well the data sheet said it could be applied to exterior plywood... (I was just thinking extra water proofing) but I could forego that and just apply it to the pre-pitch floor.

I plan to put a vapor barrier on the walls, then install the Oatey liner membrane (do a water leak test)... then the cement backer boards, and then the Quick-Pitch & Kirb-Perfect systems and then 4-in-1 mortar bed.
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Old 09-15-2018, 08:20 PM   #53
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One waterproofing is fine if it's done right. Just do it right because all these extra waterproofing steps don't work well together. It's not extra waterproofing, it's a place for the water to run and hide forever when you first waterproofing fails.
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Old 09-15-2018, 08:23 PM   #54
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And don't apply it to the floor if you're doing a liner. There's a lot of info on here about the RIGHT way to do it and why. You need to give that info a good perusal and not try to reinvent the wheel here.
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Old 09-15-2018, 08:33 PM   #55
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Okay, these guys got ahead of me. The link shows this product being used with a divot method shower floor which isn't what you have. When using a divot method, the paint on membrane is the liner and it's directly under the tiles. You don't use a pan liner along with it.

If I were you, I would not use the Hydraseal and just use a PVC pan liner. I'll post a pic of a divot floor.

The surface where my wrench is will be tiled directly with thinset. With your system, you put down the pan liner and then add another mud bed over the liner.
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Old 09-16-2018, 08:25 AM   #56
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Ok guys... thanks for the input. I'll save the HydraSeal for the cement boards only.
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Old 09-16-2018, 01:53 PM   #57
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is it necessary to put a plastic vapor barrier behind the cement board if I'm planning to coat the CB with the HydraSeal?
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Old 09-16-2018, 02:02 PM   #58
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No, leave the plastic out.
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Old 09-16-2018, 02:13 PM   #59
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thanks!
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Old 09-18-2018, 08:36 PM   #60
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Silicone (what kind? Elastomeric?) OR Plumber's Putty on top & around flange perimeter underneath the liner??? Does it matter? Is one better than the other?
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