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Old 08-14-2018, 08:56 PM   #31
mlawler626
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Well, Looks like I didn't trowel it flat... it is sort of mounded. Looks Like I will have to bring out my angle grinder with bell-face surface grinder to bring it all flat. So the flange might be a smidge higher than the original floor... I'll know exactly after I grind that area flat (...but I'm going to wait a week and give it more time to cure/harden before I put the grinder to it).

Now, (after holding the Kirb-Perfect frame in-place) I'm thinking I will need to run the tile all the way to the corners of the outside walls... so that I have enough tile extending beyond the frameless glass door.

So I'm not sure if the bullnose Schluter trim would look better or if a square Schluter trim piece would look better. Any opinions on running it all the way to the edge?
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:51 PM   #32
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Are you putting square edge or bullnose sheetrock corners there?
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Old 08-14-2018, 10:04 PM   #33
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@ Kevin,
My plan is to have the 1/2" cement backer boards overlap the existing drywall and then put appropriate "sharp" (not rounded) corner beading over the joint.

Now I'm thinking the tile should run to those edges... so that I have enough tile extending beyond the frameless glass door.

I think you suggested this one:
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And for the 90 degree corner, considering this trim and it would be flush to the drywall:
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Old 08-14-2018, 10:41 PM   #34
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Michael,
two points you were curious about:

Placement of frameless shower door assembly on curb:
Theoretically, anywhere you want. Practically, usually in the center of the curb. I did mine 1/3 towards the outside edge of the curb as I wanted to gain some extra room inside my shower. I wouldn't move it more than 1/3 towards either edge.

Schluter Deco-DE (the drawing you posted)
This 135 deg. outside corner profile works great. It's only available in 100% solid stainless steel. Be prepared to shell out $70ish per 8-foot section. You will likely not find it in a store, so probably have to order online. Stainless steel is the best material for water contact. Better than aluminum. Be prepared, however, to invest extra time for installation. You can cut stainless by hand or with a variable speed angle grinder. Take a regular angle grinder, and you'll leave bluish marks at the cut. Stainless is the better choice but it's way more expensive than that aluminum stuff and is harder to install (heavier, doesn't have the built-in 1/16 spacer and spacing to the abutting tile needs to be done manually).

My personal rule with Schluter profiles is: If it is in contact with water, I pick the stainless profiles and pay the price. Anything outside the water stream and it's aluminum. That's just me. Most people use the aluminum in the wet area without a problem.

Pick a profile you like, round or square. Whatever floats your shower boat. You can use the edge connector pieces that they sell or often just do a miter cut and forego those.
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Old 08-15-2018, 09:35 AM   #35
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I ordered the Schulter trim for the two corners... not cheap! Shipping was standard ground (~ $25).

I got the 1/2" height, as someone here suggested, so as to better cover the 3/8" tile edge.
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Old 08-15-2018, 12:30 PM   #36
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Cool. Most people don't want to spend the money on stainless. I think it's the only good choice in a shower. Those profiles are all made in Germany where they are also more popular and thus offered at a cheaper price point. In the U.S., it's often difficult to sell more expensive quality products to the same degree.

A tip for the future to save money: Lowe's (and I believe the orange monster as well) sells most regular stainless profiles online (like Rondec/Quadec). I ordered my stainless Rondec online and had it delivered to my local store for pickup. The advantage: Slightly cheaper per item price (below the MSRP) and no shipping charge. Plus, I could return one extra profile, and they'd just take it back.

Since Schluter doesn't want to undermine their dealers, they'll always charge full MSRP and shipping. You'll like the beefy cardboard tube that it comes in. It's super sturdy.

The stainless you got is the regular 304. Schluter also offers SS316 (I think they call it V4 or something like that). The latter has molybdenum in it for additional corrosion resistance. But that is more suitable for chlorinated water like in a swimming pool environment.

Be careful when you grout around the stainless profile. It's tough and won't rust but it does collect scratches from the sand in grout easily. But then, to me that adds to its appeal.
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Old 08-15-2018, 12:47 PM   #37
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I plan to use un-sanded grout.
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Old 08-15-2018, 06:17 PM   #38
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If you're still using 12x24 tiles, I'd use sanded grout. Tape off the edging if you need to.
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Old 08-15-2018, 07:19 PM   #39
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Well, on the floor I was planning to use un-sanded grout because of the polished marble tiles.

EDIT: I am using the same 12x24 tiles in the shower but will also be using some polished pencil marble and hone marble mosaic tile. The grout spacing will all be 1/8" ...so I was just planning to use the same un-sanded grout.
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Old 08-15-2018, 08:42 PM   #40
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99% of the time sanded grout doesn't scratch marble. Do a test area if you are wondering. 1/8 joints with unsanded grout could cause problems.
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Old 08-15-2018, 09:29 PM   #41
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@ Davey,

Why is that? the box says the unsanded grout is good for joints up to 1/8".
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Old 08-15-2018, 10:03 PM   #42
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Because unsanded grout shrinks a fair amount as it dries. When the directions say it’s good up to 1/8”, they’re really stretching the truth. Yes, you can use unsanded on that size grout width. But be prepared for enough shrinkage within the joint that you’ll want to add grout to the cleaned joints within a couple of hours. I wouldn’t wait until the next day to add grout, as a thin layer of grout added to day old joints will not adhere properly.

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Old 08-15-2018, 10:52 PM   #43
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I saw in another thread here... someone suggested doing a 50/50 mix of sanded & unsanded grout for polished/honed marble... what about that?
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Old 08-16-2018, 07:41 AM   #44
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Why would you do that, Michael? If the sand is gonna scratch your tile, it's gonna scratch your tile regardless what it's mixed with. If it's not gonna scratch your tile, it won't matter in what proportion it might be in your mix.

The sanded grout is much stronger and more durable and I'd recommend you use it if at all possible in your floor application. I'd also recommend that you make a test board and test the sanded grout to see if it will be compatible with your tile if you have any doubt.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 08-16-2018, 12:03 PM   #45
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I will just stick with my plan to use un-sanded grout and follow ToolGuy's advice.
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