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Old 07-17-2018, 04:32 PM   #46
greenjp
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Another question, this time about the 2nd layer of plywood. I've got 1/2" nominal BCX in the garage ready to go. 3/4" subfloor. I picked up these screws (#8 1.5") to put the 2nd layer down, and have the liberry article to guide me on the layout of the sheets and screw pattern. I assume 1.5" screws are appropriate for 1.25" worth of plywood?
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Old 07-17-2018, 07:52 PM   #47
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I've never used that brand, the the specs sound all right to me, Jeff.

Yes, the length is appropriate.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-18-2018, 07:19 PM   #48
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Thanks CX. Another question:

From Friday around noon until sometime Sunday afternoon I am going to have the house to myself so will be working overtime on the bathroom. If things go reasonably well I expect to get to the point where I may have time to set the StrataHeat mat, but I seriously doubt I'll have time to lay the wire and tile. Is it OK to install the mat, then cover it up with cardboard or something for a week or three before getting around to tiling? The room will have very little traffic as there'll be no sinks or toilet.
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Old 07-18-2018, 07:27 PM   #49
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Yea it will be fine if the cable hasn't been ran.
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Old 07-20-2018, 07:34 PM   #50
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Today's progress was better than I had hoped for. I removed the toilet, vanity, baseboards, linoleum floor, and all the tile around the tub, cleanup and shower included it was 6 hours of work solo. The dopes who built my house using drywall in the shower did use Durock around the tub

I have about 800 little staples from the linoleum floor to pull out tomorrow, but fortunately will have a helper. So we'll work on that and then get the 2nd layer of plywood cut and screwed in. Get some Wedi board up around the tub, patch some holes in the wall, build the step for the tub, and do the electrical for the floor. If time permits I'll measure, cut, and dry fit the Strataheat.

Any thoughts on building a step for the tub? I've got some 2x4 and was thinking of just building a box with that and plywood and securing it to the floor and tub surround, then applying a suitable tiling substrate (Wedi, I also have some scrap Ditra and the Strataheat mat). Helper suggested getting something heavier duty like 2x8. I think it's going to be about 18" wide, 10" deep, and 10" tall.
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Old 07-20-2018, 10:16 PM   #51
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Quite a step for wet feet. I would use small tiles and a handy grab bar seems like a good idea.
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Old 07-21-2018, 05:39 PM   #52
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The step up into the tub is ~20-21" so I figured make the step half that high. I'll be using the same 2x2 mosaic I used on the shower floor for the top of it.

Today I finished pulling up the staples (using vice grips and a paint stirrer as a fulcrum to lever them out seemed the best technique), took a trip to HD for a few needed supplies, and got half the new plywood down. Tomorrow it'll be the rest of the ply and hopefully the step framing and electrical.
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Old 07-21-2018, 06:12 PM   #53
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It's actually easier to get into a tub without a step. Simply lifting your leg up and over the edge is pretty easy. Not very many people feel safe to step up and then step down into the tub. Most people will sit on the edge/deck of the tub and swing their legs over when there's a step. There are times when they look good though.
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Old 07-21-2018, 07:44 PM   #54
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Exactly. We used to have one and I cringed every time someone went to use it. Was able to put a grab bar which made it better, but i still felt it was too dangerous.
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Old 08-04-2018, 02:14 PM   #55
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I set the Strataheat mat this afternoon. Sheesh you guys who do this for a living must be bad asses I found it took a lot of pressure to get a good transfer of mortar onto the fleece. I was using a wooden trowel and just pressing down good and hard didn't seem to do it. I had to concentrate my weight on the edge and really get into it. Upon inspection the coverage was good though, some spots here and there that didn't seem to take but overall it was good. The Stratamat is translucent so you can sorta tell where there's better coverage but even on areas that upon inspection where quite good, from the top it appears more splotchy. Anyhow it's all set now and I also got the electrical box in and wired up so the next stage will be running the wire and thermostats.

FWIW I used the grey 253 Gold, mixed with 6.25 quarts (instructions call for 5.5). I guess it was "loose" but not the soup the guys on the Laticrete video are shown using. I really wish the companies that make this stuff would just come out and provide directions for how to mix for installing these mats. No way in hell the directions on the bag would result in a suitable mix.

The thermostat wires measured just about exactly 10k ohms and 9,650. Any problem with the one being a bit low?
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Old 08-07-2018, 09:36 AM   #56
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Quote:
The thermostat wires measured just about exactly 10k ohms and 9,650. Any problem with the one being a bit low?
Jeff - I checked with our tech team and they said "As long as the reading is within 10% of what is stated it should be fine."
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Old 08-08-2018, 05:14 AM   #57
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greenjp - what made you put another layer of plywood on the floor?
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Old 08-08-2018, 05:07 PM   #58
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The joists under the floor are at 24" spacing, so the rules say you need a second layer of plywood (3/8" minimum, I went with 1/2") over top of it.
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Old 08-23-2018, 07:07 AM   #59
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I'm going to have a few days over the next couple of weeks so with any luck will be setting the floor tiles. I have a question about selecting a transition profile - the adjacent room is carpeted and the new tile floor will be a bit higher than the carpet. I'm looking at using the Reno TK or V transition profiles, which when installed will be underneath the doors when they're shut. The TK is readily available locally.

The trick as usual is selecting the size. I used a 5/16th Rodnec in the shower, which worked perfectly for the curb and niche (5/16th tiles using 1/4" trowel) but was probably one size too small along the wall edges (same tiles with 1/4x3/8 trowel). For the floor my tiles are 5/16", 12"x12"s that are very flat (AO approves a 50/50 offset brick installation) and I'll be using a 1/4x3/8 trowel unless convinced otherwise. So I figure ~1/2" total height for the mortar and tile. Reasonable to use the 1/2" Reno or would I risk having it higher than the tile surface? 3/8 Reno is readily available but it seems maybe that'll be a bit too low? Schluter recommends "up to" 1/32" below the tile surface. Naturally the 7/16" is only available in stainless steel and is both expensive and not readily available. ugh. Any thoughts would be appreciated, both on the size and TK vs. V or other.
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Old 08-23-2018, 08:16 AM   #60
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Jeff, I've rarely found the Schluter transitions necessary form carpet to tile, but don't like raw tile edges either. For minimal look I'll use Jolly at tile thickness.

Photo is not this specifically, but at left is a Jolly transition to carpet. This was with 1/2" additional ply and Stratamat. Carpet was on original subfloor. So tile was raised about 5/8-3/4" off subfloor.
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